800-850+ degree temps

[Roospike]

BTW HW , did your Summit come with new upgraded roller ball door latch ?
Is your door handle wood ? is it black ? did it come that way it did you paint it ?

And what is the deal with this part of the door gasket ? < see pic >

 

[Hogwildz]

BTW HW , did your Summit come with new upgraded roller ball door latch ?
Is your door handle wood ? is it black ? did it come that way it did you paint it ?

And what is the deal with this part of the door gasket ? < see pic >

I did notice on the lower part to the right of that part of gasket you ask about, the gasket is set back a lil more than the rest. So maybe when time comes to replace gasket, that will be improved. Although entire gasket appears to be making contact now, whioch before it was not on that end of door & bottom.

Yes upgraded design here. Wood handle painted black (came from factory like that). I kinda like the natural wood handle, but the black kinda blends in and doesn't stick out like a sore thumb. Yes it is a roller latch. Which in my opinon I can see wearing out rather quickly. Bit I hope I am wrong. It would have been cool if the roller had a set of bearings on it. Its basically a metal sleeve over the latch peg. What kinda lube you think if/when needed for it? graphite? I guess since it rolls it is easier than none.

 

[Hogwildz]

:cheese: WoooooHooooooo , A few small tweaks and back on track.

By the looks of the door gasket one would think any "off-ness" would be taken up in the difference of the thick gasket , I guess yours was just a hair past close. Sense that is the case you will need to pay extra attention to door gasket maintenance in the years to come ...... unless you are able to make the difference up in the door frame level.

I'm going to level my frame door opening tomorrow just because i can and it will bother me to no end if i dont.

LOL, let me know how it works out. As long as mine is sealing ok now, I ain't going to grind her down. Don't want to void the warranty. Plus is I want proof if further problems arrise. If I grind it down, there goes my evidence LOL.

 

[Hogwildz]

BTW HW , did your Summit come with new upgraded roller ball door latch ?
Is your door handle wood ? is it black ? did it come that way it did you paint it ?

And what is the deal with this part of the door gasket ? < see pic >

I have no clue. Best I can think is its a cover/reinforcement for where the rope's seam is. maybe helps assured air tight, or at least tight at the seam?

 

[Roospike]

Yep , I think the natural wood handle would look funny on an all black stove unless you had like say a gold door and or the gold trim.

My gasket is all one piece and it meets in the lower left corner so sence yours didnt look the same i thought i would ask.

My door handle < metal part > has no roller ball and does show wear but i figured in time i would just bend the stove part of the latch in as you did to adjust the fit .

I called Pacific Energy ( not the dealer ) and asked about the small brown spot in the lower bottom left corner of the glass and thay said it is common to show up in that spot an all the Summits . I didnt really expect a 100% perfectly clean glass but made sure i asked and and all questions the first month of ownership.

When i first got my stove i put the door on right away (still in the garage) wile i was still installing the new hearth and class A ss pipe as to make sure it had time for the door gasket to be seated to the stove before i started burning. It sat new with the door seated for a over a week 1/2 before it was installed.

 

[Hogwildz]

Yep , I think the natural wood handle would look funny on an all black stove unless you had like say a gold door and or the gold trim.

My gasket is all one piece and it meets in the lower left corner so sence yours didnt look the same i thought i would ask.

My door handle < metal part > has no roller ball and does show wear but i figured in time i would just bend the stove part of the latch in as you did to adjust the fit .

I called Pacific Energy ( not the dealer ) and asked about the small brown spot in the lower bottom left corner of the glass and thay said it is common to show up in that spot an all the Summits . I didnt really expect a 100% perfectly clean glass but made sure i asked and and all questions the first month of ownership.

When i first got my stove i put the door on right away (still in the garage) wile i was still installing the new hearth and class A ss pipe as to make sure it had time for the door gasket to be seated to the stove before i started burning. It sat new with the door seated for a over a week 1/2 before it was installed.

Ahh, I didn't put my door on til last, and then fired her up. Seems to be doing well, havent even gotten past 550 tonight. and getting same warmth to the house. I think I have a winner. I'll pack her full tomorrow night for the litmus test.

 

[Roospike]

Yep , I think the natural wood handle would look funny on an all black stove unless you had like say a gold door and or the gold trim.

My gasket is all one piece and it meets in the lower left corner so sence yours didnt look the same i thought i would ask.

My door handle < metal part > has no roller ball and does show wear but i figured in time i would just bend the stove part of the latch in as you did to adjust the fit .

I called Pacific Energy ( not the dealer ) and asked about the small brown spot in the lower bottom left corner of the glass and thay said it is common to show up in that spot an all the Summits . I didnt really expect a 100% perfectly clean glass but made sure i asked and and all questions the first month of ownership.

When i first got my stove i put the door on right away (still in the garage) wile i was still installing the new hearth and class A ss pipe as to make sure it had time for the door gasket to be seated to the stove before i started burning. It sat new with the door seated for a over a week 1/2 before it was installed.

Ahh, I didn't put my door on til last, and then fired her up. Seems to be doing well, havent even gotten past 550 tonight. and getting same warmth to the house. I think I have a winner. I'll pack her full tomorrow night for the litmus test.

AH ! I see light baby ! ................. I see light !

 

[BrotherBart]

Glad to see ya able to throw a saddle on that running horse HW. Burns like a wood stove now doesn't it?

Enjoy.

 

[Hogwildz]

Glad to see ya able to throw a saddle on that running horse HW. Burns like a wood stove now doesn't it?

Enjoy.

Yeap, she got as high as 600, and stayed there most of the night, was down to a nice coal log this morn, threw a biggun on, and letting her do her thing. Much less fussin around. Less playing with air etc.
The beast even cleaned most of the glass off herself, as she should be doing.
Like the good ol Ronco commercial...... "Just set it, and forrrrget it"
I had pretty much no control before, now its much easier to control & manage. All from a door leak that was driving me batty.
Shes saddled up good and "tight" and going the driections I steer her. Before, I thought I might have to head down to the Old Bethlehem Steel Plant and open it back up and start melting some ore with it. Score another one for gut feeling, it was right again. Plus I feel like less of a paraoid pain in the arse.
Thanks guys, the support system here is the best there is!!
Did I ever mention I LOVE MY SUMMIT? LMAO
And we have a couple more recently joined the ranks, might be time for a Summit room soon

 

[Hogwildz]

Glad to see ya able to throw a saddle on that running horse HW. Burns like a wood stove now doesn't it?

Enjoy.

From your other post a few back about the gasket on your door..... You have no lip that edges into the rope on the stove? It just rests flat against the stove face?
Am I understanding that correctly? Just wondering if I understood that correctly. Does it seal well that way? Any benefits/drawbacks to that way over the one with a raised edge to rest against?

 

[BrotherBart]

That's great. I finally got around to loading the Englander full, leveled'er down at 450 and cruised it through last night. I have also gone back to North/South burning in it like I always burned in my old stove.

Heat on brother.

 

[BrotherBart]

From your other post a few back about the gasket on your door..... You have no lip that edges into the rope on the stove? It just rests flat against the stove face?
Am I understanding that correctly? Just wondering if I understood that correctly. Does it seal well that way? Any benefits/drawbacks to that way over the one with a raised edge to rest against?

Seals against the flat face of the stove body. One of the things I noticed looking at the various stoves this summer was that most of the steel stoves do it that way these days. I was kinda leary of it when looking at them because all of the steel stoves used to have the piece welded into the door opening for the "knife edge" seal but really it was there to stiffen the stove body and prevent warpage. And those stoves used steel twice as thick as the new ones!

But I haven't heard of any problems with the other brands sealing that way so we shall see. As long as the stove body doesn't get warped they all should be fine.

 

[Gunner]

BTW HW , did your Summit come with new upgraded roller ball door latch ?
Is your door handle wood ? is it black ? did it come that way it did you paint it ?

And what is the deal with this part of the door gasket ? < see pic >

Mine has the same gasket as HW with different piece at the bottom middle as seen in the pic

 

[Gunner]

Checked the knife edge of mine out of curiosity. The top is bowed out in the center ever so slightly-1/16. The bottom is bowed in less than the top-1/32. Will almost rip a 5 dollar bill in half trying to slide it out. (No such thing a a dollar bill up here) Maybe it's not supposed to be flat, it's hard to check the door, but the knife edge may be mirroring the doors shape. So far we have 3 stoves bowed out at the top and in at the bottom and 1 stove that is dead flat.

 

[thechimneysweep]

Well, I couldn't stand the suspense until Tuesday, so I drove down to my shop where there are five PE woodstoves on display. All five have knife edges that bow out a bit at the top center, and in a bit at the bottom center. Just eyeballing, but it looked like they described two sides of the same arc, as if the lazer cutter might have been adjusted to cut that arc in the middle of one plate, the convex side to be used at the top of the door and the concave side at the bottom. As evidence that their cutter hasn't simply gone berserk, all ten side edges were perfectly flat.

This got me thinking, which my wife will testify is a dangerous state for me to be in.

I wonder if the bow at the top is there to cause the door to flex just slightly when the door handle engages the catch, to provide a little extra tension on the gasket? I did a quick circuit of the showroom and it does seem to take a little extra force to latch the PE doors than the models we have on display from other manufacturers.

I wonder if PE's new roller-bearing door catch design is an effort to make it easier to overcome this extra tension when closing the door?

The bottom corners of woodstove doors, particularly the one on the catch side (opposite the hinges), are notorious for leaking air: at any rate, that's where we usually see telltale creosote stains on the glass. I wonder if the concave bottom edge, which would present a more aggressive tension surface against the gasket on the outside corners, is a deliberate design intended to help solve the corner leakage problem?

My wife wonders if I should have waited until later in the day to start pouring New Years cocktails.

 

[Roospike]

Well, I couldn't stand the suspense until Tuesday, so I drove down to my shop where there are five PE woodstoves on display. All five have knife edges that bow out a bit at the top center, and in a bit at the bottom center. Just eyeballing, but it looked like they described two sides of the same arc, as if the lazer cutter might have been adjusted to cut that arc in the middle of one plate, the convex side to be used at the top of the door and the concave side at the bottom. As evidence that their cutter hasn't simply gone berserk, all ten side edges were perfectly flat.

This got me thinking, which my wife will testify is a dangerous state for me to be in.

I wonder if the bow at the top is there to cause the door to flex just slightly when the door handle engages the catch, to provide a little extra tension on the gasket? I did a quick circuit of the showroom and it does seem to take a little extra force to latch the PE doors than the models we have on display from other manufacturers.

I wonder if PE's new roller-bearing door catch design is an effort to make it easier to overcome this extra tension when closing the door?

The bottom corners of woodstove doors, particularly the one on the catch side (opposite the hinges), are notorious for leaking air: at any rate, that's where we usually see telltale creosote stains on the glass. I wonder if the concave bottom edge, which would present a more aggressive tension surface against the gasket on the outside corners, is a deliberate design intended to help solve the corner leakage problem?

My wife wonders if I should have waited until later in the day to start pouring New Years cocktails.

Hahaha ......... Good report Tom , Cheers our web stove brother.

 

[Hogwildz]

Well, I couldn't stand the suspense until Tuesday, so I drove down to my shop where there are five PE woodstoves on display. All five have knife edges that bow out a bit at the top center, and in a bit at the bottom center. Just eyeballing, but it looked like they described two sides of the same arc, as if the lazer cutter might have been adjusted to cut that arc in the middle of one plate, the convex side to be used at the top of the door and the concave side at the bottom. As evidence that their cutter hasn't simply gone berserk, all ten side edges were perfectly flat.

This got me thinking, which my wife will testify is a dangerous state for me to be in.

I wonder if the bow at the top is there to cause the door to flex just slightly when the door handle engages the catch, to provide a little extra tension on the gasket? I did a quick circuit of the showroom and it does seem to take a little extra force to latch the PE doors than the models we have on display from other manufacturers.

I wonder if PE's new roller-bearing door catch design is an effort to make it easier to overcome this extra tension when closing the door?

The bottom corners of woodstove doors, particularly the one on the catch side (opposite the hinges), are notorious for leaking air: at any rate, that's where we usually see telltale creosote stains on the glass. I wonder if the concave bottom edge, which would present a more aggressive tension surface against the gasket on the outside corners, is a deliberate design intended to help solve the corner leakage problem?

My wife wonders if I should have waited until later in the day to start pouring New Years cocktails.

LOL, too f'in funny!!
Yout a nutcase, I like that! Mine had very little tension while closing before I adjusted. I did adust a lil at a time untill each area where the bill was loose was more snug.
I woiuld say the bottom just left of center was the worst area. Good thing for the roller latch, cause my door although not having to use both hands, it is still tight now.
But not binding or anything. Definetely solved my runaway blaze problem. I am wondering if anyone else has/had this problem? Other than me and others who have spoken up. The lower latch corner was a creosote factory, but its vleaned up farily well with a hot fire last night. Top latch corner was the worst for me. That is cleaning it seems a lil with each fire. I culdn't get that spot clean with just windex.

Tell the lil lady its the last day of the year, and your entitled to all the cocktails you want

 

[BrotherBart]

Well, that caps it. PacificGuyinCNY is going to have to send his stove back and get another one. His is obviously defective with the flat sealing surface and no creosote build-up.

 

[PacificGuyInCNY]

Well, that's what I get for trying to just eye-ball the top & bottom knife edges instead of traipsing out to the garage for my trusty straightedge. Went back & rechecked, there is a slight bow as described above. My bad.

Of course, not as bad as having to put up with the constant teasing from my wife about the little burn mark on my forehead I got when I had my nose down there looking at the stove ... hh:

 

[elkimmeg]

First day of burning my just installed Encore ,Lively flames no black glass, I am thimking to my self Whow.
Engage the cat it lights off but the wood is burning up too quickly and I'm on the hot side of safe burning.

I figure It must be the gaskets need replacing. I'm all set to tear the old ones off. then stop myself and wonder what about door adjustment.
The main door seems right. I must have leaks else where, Right?. Man at one point I'm figuring, I'm going to haull it again out to the garage and tear it down for a total rebuild
I playing with it at night looking for light leaks I can't see any. Finally, I open the ash door. the latch turned rather easilly. Could it be a minor adjustment is all that is required?
So I tightened up the latch play Bingo That was all I needed to control my beast. I probably replace good gaskets around the glass, when they were ok.

Step one for leaking gaskets adjust the door latch. No matter what stove you are using.

 

[Willhound]

HW, glad to see that you seem to have found your problem. Sorry, been away for a few days celebrating New Years out at my camp, or I would have replied sooner. I mentioned the dollar bill test to you way back in my first PM because it sounded to me that the door might be leaking. I should have gone on to explain the door adjustment excercise, but I figured I'd wait until you reported back on the billl test, because if that wasn't it, I figured it would be easier not having to try and explain the door adjustment. My bad and I apologise because it likely caused you some unneccesary worry in the meantime. My installer did exactly as Tom described when we hung my door. Used a ball peen hammer to tap the latch, and then the end of a crescent wrench to pry it back out a bit after we went a little too far. With the price of the stove, of course I had to ask and he told me that the majority of the Summit's he installs require a bit of door adjustment, but he also went on to explain exactly what Tom said. Because there are several different doors available (plain black, gold, nickel etc) the doors and the stoves or inserts ship seperately so it's pretty much impossible to adjust until installation. I too worried about the latch eventually moving back to the oiriginal position, but my installer told me that it usually does not happen, and I can tell you that in a year of heavy use, that is the case with mine.

 

[Hogwildz]

HW, glad to see that you seem to have found your problem. Sorry, been away for a few days celebrating New Years out at my camp, or I would have replied sooner. I mentioned the dollar bill test to you way back in my first PM because it sounded to me that the door might be leaking. I should have gone on to explain the door adjustment excercise, but I figured I'd wait until you reported back on the billl test, because if that wasn't it, I figured it would be easier not having to try and explain the door adjustment. My bad and I apologise because it likely caused you some unneccesary worry in the meantime. My installer did exactly as Tom described when we hung my door. Used a ball peen hammer to tap the latch, and then the end of a crescent wrench to pry it back out a bit after we went a little too far. With the price of the stove, of course I had to ask and he told me that the majority of the Summit's he installs require a bit of door adjustment, but he also went on to explain exactly what Tom said. Because there are several different doors available (plain black, gold, nickel etc) the doors and the stoves or inserts ship seperately so it's pretty much impossible to adjust until installation. I too worried about the latch eventually moving back to the oiriginal position, but my installer told me that it usually does not happen, and I can tell you that in a year of heavy use, that is the case with mine.

Thanks man, it was your recommendation to check the door seal with the dollar bill that made me do that first before going another direction. As you know, I found it to be wayyyyyy out of adjustment. I did exactly as you just described, but tapped the latch in a lil at a time, and stopped when the bill was snug everywhere it was previously loose. So thank goodness no bending it back out for me . She hasn't gotten over about 700 or maube 750 since. And that was from me letting her get higher than usual before cutting it back. No 800+ or pegged themo anymore. I also moved the thermo over to the right upper corner. As one of the other guys suggested that in the center there it could be reading heat directly from the secondary burn. I am pretty sure I got her all fixed up. Honestly its too damn warm to chock her full to test that yet.
I had 3 good size splits in last night and she was at about 600 and it was 78 in here, with me sweating my arse off. Just tossing a slpit or two on at this point, just too warm outside to fill her up. Thanks for the advice, it payed off very much!!
Now if it would get a lil colder so I could get her up to full steam again. Calling for high 40's even low 50's this week. Weird winter this year.
Thanks again WH, Summit owner rock And to be politically correct, so do you other guys LOL.

 

[Roospike]

HW, glad to see that you seem to have found your problem. Sorry, been away for a few days celebrating New Years out at my camp, or I would have replied sooner. I mentioned the dollar bill test to you way back in my first PM because it sounded to me that the door might be leaking. I should have gone on to explain the door adjustment excercise, but I figured I'd wait until you reported back on the billl test, because if that wasn't it, I figured it would be easier not having to try and explain the door adjustment. My bad and I apologise because it likely caused you some unneccesary worry in the meantime. My installer did exactly as Tom described when we hung my door. Used a ball peen hammer to tap the latch, and then the end of a crescent wrench to pry it back out a bit after we went a little too far. With the price of the stove, of course I had to ask and he told me that the majority of the Summit's he installs require a bit of door adjustment, but he also went on to explain exactly what Tom said. Because there are several different doors available (plain black, gold, nickel etc) the doors and the stoves or inserts ship seperately so it's pretty much impossible to adjust until installation. I too worried about the latch eventually moving back to the oiriginal position, but my installer told me that it usually does not happen, and I can tell you that in a year of heavy use, that is the case with mine.

Thanks man, it was your recommendation to check the door seal with the dollar bill that made me do that first before going another direction. As you know, I found it to be wayyyyyy out of adjustment. I did exactly as you just described, but tapped the latch in a lil at a time, and stopped when the bill was snug everywhere it was previously loose. So thank goodness no bending it back out for me . She hasn't gotten over about 700 or maube 750 since. And that was from me letting her get higher than usual before cutting it back. No 800+ or pegged themo anymore. I also moved the thermo over to the right upper corner. As one of the other guys suggested that in the center there it could be reading heat directly from the secondary burn. I am pretty sure I got her all fixed up. Honestly its too damn warm to chock her full to test that yet.
I had 3 good size splits in last night and she was at about 600 and it was 78 in here, with me sweating my arse off. Just tossing a slpit or two on at this point, just too warm outside to fill her up. Thanks for the advice, it payed off very much!!
Now if it would get a lil colder so I could get her up to full steam again. Calling for high 40's even low 50's this week. Weird winter this year.
Thanks again WH, Summit owner rock And to be politically correct, so do you other guys LOL.

Hey brother , So you did end up moving the thermometer over to the side ...........What difference did that make ?

As I told you, mine was on top and i would have to place it on the front as yours is to see if there was a difference , I grabbed the one from the garage so i have two on now and the front thermometer on mine reads 120° higher above the door as you had it vs the one i have on top. ( both being with in 5° when in the same place )

 

[Roospike]

Well, that's what I get for trying to just eye-ball the top & bottom knife edges instead of traipsing out to the garage for my trusty straightedge. Went back & rechecked, there is a slight bow as described above. My bad.

Of course, not as bad as having to put up with the constant teasing from my wife about the little burn mark on my forehead I got when I had my nose down there looking at the stove ... hh:

Alright'E then , thats better .......... we didnt want to ban you from the group for being the odd ball Summit owner. ;-)

 

[Hogwildz]

HW, glad to see that you seem to have found your problem. Sorry, been away for a few days celebrating New Years out at my camp, or I would have replied sooner. I mentioned the dollar bill test to you way back in my first PM because it sounded to me that the door might be leaking. I should have gone on to explain the door adjustment excercise, but I figured I'd wait until you reported back on the billl test, because if that wasn't it, I figured it would be easier not having to try and explain the door adjustment. My bad and I apologise because it likely caused you some unneccesary worry in the meantime. My installer did exactly as Tom described when we hung my door. Used a ball peen hammer to tap the latch, and then the end of a crescent wrench to pry it back out a bit after we went a little too far. With the price of the stove, of course I had to ask and he told me that the majority of the Summit's he installs require a bit of door adjustment, but he also went on to explain exactly what Tom said. Because there are several different doors available (plain black, gold, nickel etc) the doors and the stoves or inserts ship seperately so it's pretty much impossible to adjust until installation. I too worried about the latch eventually moving back to the oiriginal position, but my installer told me that it usually does not happen, and I can tell you that in a year of heavy use, that is the case with mine.

Thanks man, it was your recommendation to check the door seal with the dollar bill that made me do that first before going another direction. As you know, I found it to be wayyyyyy out of adjustment. I did exactly as you just described, but tapped the latch in a lil at a time, and stopped when the bill was snug everywhere it was previously loose. So thank goodness no bending it back out for me . She hasn't gotten over about 700 or maube 750 since. And that was from me letting her get higher than usual before cutting it back. No 800+ or pegged themo anymore. I also moved the thermo over to the right upper corner. As one of the other guys suggested that in the center there it could be reading heat directly from the secondary burn. I am pretty sure I got her all fixed up. Honestly its too damn warm to chock her full to test that yet.
I had 3 good size splits in last night and she was at about 600 and it was 78 in here, with me sweating my arse off. Just tossing a slpit or two on at this point, just too warm outside to fill her up. Thanks for the advice, it payed off very much!!
Now if it would get a lil colder so I could get her up to full steam again. Calling for high 40's even low 50's this week. Weird winter this year.
Thanks again WH, Summit owner rock And to be politically correct, so do you other guys LOL.

Hey brother , So you did end up moving the thermometer over to the side ...........What difference did that make ?

As I told you, mine was on top and i would have to place it on the front as yours is to see if there was a difference , I grabbed the one from the garage so i have two on now and the front thermometer on mine reads 120° higher above the door as you had it vs the one i have on top. ( both being with in 5° when in the same place )

Yeap, moved it over to the right corner above door. Its more on the outside of the inner wall. I did that same time as I adjusted door, soooo, I really don't know if theres much difference. It ain't hit 800+ yet, so somethings better, or both are. And NO I ain't moving back to center LOL. I just stacked a nice rack of big, dry, splits yesterday. The it rained all night and this morning. Now its all wet. I'm burning it anyways LOL. Drys quick and still burns, to hell with it. I guess just the outside layer is wet.