90 days with a Blaze King, Love it and have creosote questions

[begreen]

Good catch. Forever Flex is available from multiple vendors.

 

[Marshy]

I'm not convinced your wood is the problem. I (and others here) have burned wood up to 25% moisture content without the problems you describe. Even assuming your wood isn't as dry as you think, your fire shouldn't completely snuff itself out when turned down after a 20 minute burn in with the thermometer on high. This, and the creosote buildup you describe after 3 months of burning on a medium setting, suggests draft problems. Assuming you are keeping the cat in the active range.

I would contact Blaze King. They will be happy to help you.

Sounds like a poor draft and the flue gasses are condensing because of the large thermal mass of the masonry chimney. The flue gas temp is just to low to use in a masonry chimney. It's the reason I'm getting rid of mine. That and I could use a little more heat.

 

[Marshy]

You may have stronger draft that can help overcome poor wood quality. But his symptoms typically point to wood. But it could be weak draft which is why i asked for more details

Even with the proper draft creosote can still be an issue due to the thermal loss into the masonry. Ask me how I know....

 

[jase]

I'm understanding now about the need for a better draft. Had a fire the other night to take the chill off, and getting the fire going was not hard, but it took a long while for it to really produce some heat...

Marshy are you getting rid of your chimney, or your wood stove?

 

[Marshy]

I'm selling my King Ultra and the interior double wall pipe. I had it hooked to a masonry chimney and had 3-4' of creosote buildup in the top of my 30' 8x8" masonry chimney. I ran the stove on high all season and could use a little more heat and better distribution. I have baseboard heat already in the house so I'm going with a boiler and storage system. I had slightly better success heating my house with an old stove in the same way I use the King but was tired of feeding it so frequently. I thought I could manage it with the King but it was a little less output and generating some creosote.

 

[bholler]

Even with the proper draft creosote can still be an issue due to the thermal loss into the masonry. Ask me how I know....

Yes I am fully aware of that which is why we only install insulated liners

 

[jetsam]

I'm not convinced your wood is the problem. I (and others here) have burned wood up to 25% moisture content without the problems you describe.

My first 2 seasons I rarely burned wood that was as low as 25%.

Wet wood is sulky about burning when you put it in, not at the end of a burn cycle after it's been in a hot firebox for 10 or 20 hours.

I would not be one bit happy with a King install that wouldn't run below 50% on the thermostat- might as well have a tube stove if your low-and-slow functionality isn't there.

I think if OP does an insulated liner with proper stack height, they'll be borderline amazed how much more useful their stove is during shoulder season.

 

[BKVP]

Sounds like a poor draft and the flue gasses are condensing because of the large thermal mass of the masonry chimney. The flue gas temp is just to low to use in a masonry chimney. It's the reason I'm getting rid of mine. That and I could use a little more heat.

With a proper drafting chimney, the stove will reach higher operating temps and produce more heat. A quality insulation liner is the prescription with masonry chimneys...especially on exterior walls.

 

[Highbeam]

Too much draft can be problematic. Too little draft can be problematic. Luckily it's pretty easy to fall within the specified range.

 

[jase]

New question regarding the insulated liner I am about to install.

Option one: insulated linter from the top of the blaze king, to the top of the chimney. Blaze king sitting in the hearth, (the fire place is over 4.5' tall and 6' wide) This option was recommended by chimney sweep as the easiest and least expensive. I am leaning towards choosing this strategy.

Option two: Blaze king sitting in front of the fireplace. 36" of double wall pipe, and (2) 45 degree elbows. A "T" coming through the masonry to connect to the double wall pipe, and insulated liner.

Option two is only attractive if it results in significantly better heating performance. Which is my question: If I put the KING in the fireplace, and insulate/ air seal the damper, am I going to be regretting that decision. Option 2 is probably significantly more expensive, and i've got about 17" of brick and mortar to cut an 8" hole through.. BUT this is my first rodeo, so I figured I would ask those who know more than I. Any and all opinions welcome.
Thanks, Jason

 

[kennyp2339]

I honestly think have a BK free standing unit inside a fire place would hurt performance due to heat build up in the fire box making the t-stat think its warmer than what it really is' but check with @BKVP, I could be wrong or over thinking the technology

 

[Highbeam]

This fireplace is an interior fireplace right? 6' wide and 4.5' tall but how deep? Will you be able to keep 4" from the back of stove to the brick?

It almost sounds like an alcove installation. The superior performing option is #1 with all vertical, all insulated, 8" liner hooked right to the stove. Will be easy to clean with a sooteater too. A well sealed and insulated block off plate would be important as well as the blower kit.

I would still slide the stove out of the fireplace as far as possible.

 

[jase]

I honestly think have a BK free standing unit inside a fire place would hurt performance due to heat build up in the fire box making the t-stat think its warmer than what it really is' but check with @BKVP, I could be wrong or over thinking the technology

Good question, I never would have thought of that. Will call BK tomorrow

 

[jase]

This fireplace is an interior fireplace right? 6' wide and 4.5' tall but how deep? Will you be able to keep 4" from the back of stove to the brick?

It almost sounds like an alcove installation. The superior performing option is #1 with all vertical, all insulated, 8" liner hooked right to the stove. Will be easy to clean with a sooteater too. A well sealed and insulated block off plate would be important as well as the blower kit.

I would still slide the stove out of the fireplace as far as possible.

I do not know offhand how deep the fireplace is, but the back of the king will be just about at the brick, there may be an inch or two, I doubt I will get 4 inches behind the stove with out the liner hitting the brick across the front of the fireplace. Yes I have been considering how to seal damper area. I do not have electricity so there is no blower in my future (off grid).

 

[BKVP]

Good question, I never would have thought of that. Will call BK tomorrow

I can save you the call...this forum of BK experts are correct. As the masonry absorbs the heat, it may also reflect that heat back towards the rear of the stove. In doing so, the radiant heat could provide false “readings” to the thermostat.

Often, this manifests itself in not being able to get higher burns rates. The spring thinks the stove is hotter than it really is and the air Supply gets cut off via the thermostat. A minimum of 4-6” is necessary.

Looking over our product line, you will note all the inserts have the thermostat located in the front of the unit. This is the result of the above scenarios.

Hope this clarifies the situation.

BKVP

 

[jase]

Ok, I will move the stove into position and measure the distance to the back wall. Thanks for the responses, and generous sharing of knowledge so far.
Jason

 

[jase]

Hello All,

I have a few closing questions before I get my BK back online. I've relined the chimney with an insulated liner, and am inching towards hooking up the stove. My present questions are (3): the insulated liner "T" has a 36" long connector coming through the masonry chimney. It is an 8" and I was intending to mock up some single wall stove pipe to measure distances, and the crimped end of the single wall pipe will not fit in the "T" that is at the bottom of the insulated liner. Do I need some sort of "adaptor"? That makes no sense but I can not see how an 8" stove pipe will fit inside the T. (it would fit around the outside, but that seems wrong from all directions.

Second question: The "T" or the snout of the T is inside a masonry thimble. The thimble is 8.25 ID, The snout is about 8" OD. So I have a .125 gap to fill. Do I use that high temp grout in the tube, Mortar mix? My present plan is to shim and then fill the space on both the front and back end so the snout is effectively suspended. . Please advise if I am headed astray.

Last question, Do people ever insulate the "T" connector? If so, what would you use?

Thanks,
Jason

 

[shoot-straight]

Alcove install for my ashford in masonry fireplace. Wanted to to add that I do not have issues w my stat thinking it's hotter than it is, which would make it shut prematurely.