Adding a detent to my splitter

[Doug Morford]

I have a Harbor Freight 20 ton splitter. I've attached a picture of it. It splits in both directions. The only improvement I really want on it is a detent for the valve, where I could get the head moving then have both hands available to hold the log, then return to neutral once it hits the stop. It would need to do this in both directions since it's a dual action splitter. Anyone know of a valve I could use to do this? Also, would the detent release too easily since I'll be splitting while it's in detent? Thanks. If anyone has any suggestions about a better forum to ask this in, I'd like to hear it.

 

[Eman85]

I don't think there's anyone that would make a finger chopper like that.

 

[armanidog]

Log Splitter Detent Valve 25GPM - Dalton Hydraulic

The 222-092-I, by Dalton, features a detented return with kickout, max operating pressure of 3000 PSI and 25 GPM max. It is frequently used by individuals building their own log splitter. It may also be used as a replacement valve for major log splitter

www.daltonhydraulic.com

You can add a detent valve.

 

[Doug Morford]

Log Splitter Detent Valve 25GPM - Dalton Hydraulic

The 222-092-I, by Dalton, features a detented return with kickout, max operating pressure of 3000 PSI and 25 GPM max. It is frequently used by individuals building their own log splitter. It may also be used as a replacement valve for major log splitter

www.daltonhydraulic.com

You can add a detent valve.

That's the common style. It wouldn't work on mine because it only has a detent on the return. I need one with a detent on both directions. Does that exist?

 

[Eman85]

Log Splitter Detent Valve 25GPM - Dalton Hydraulic

The 222-092-I, by Dalton, features a detented return with kickout, max operating pressure of 3000 PSI and 25 GPM max. It is frequently used by individuals building their own log splitter. It may also be used as a replacement valve for major log splitter

www.daltonhydraulic.com

You can add a detent valve.

He's wanting to have it split without holding the lever not for automatic return. In no way would I ever tell anyone to do something as dangerous as this. But if you want to see if it would work reverse your valve. Wear gloves so they can find the fingers.

 

[Doug Morford]

He's wanting to have it split without holding the lever not for automatic return. In no way would I ever tell anyone to do something as dangerous as this. But if you want to see if it would work reverse your valve. Wear gloves so they can find the fingers.

It currently doesn't have a detent at all since it's a two way splitter. The inefficiency with this splitter is having to hold the lever down for the entire stroke to make room for the next round where with a normal splitter you can chuck your split and reposition the round as the machine returns on its own.

I don't see how it's more dangerous. Can you explain it to me? It's possible I'm missing something, but it's not that obvious to me. It's an inherently dangerous machine to start with. It's my opinion that being able to hold the wood with two hands is safer than fumbling around with it with one hand while reaching to pull the lever. Now the kinetic machines... those are dangerous.

I'm thinking this would be set so I'd probably have to hold the lever down through a knotty piece to keep the detent from popping, but would run through the easy pieces without it popping. I'm splitting mostly tamarack and some red fir, so most of it splits very easily. This machine needs to be able to beat my production with an axe, which it currently is not doing.

 

[ericm979]

What's dangerous is having to find the lever and move it to stop the splitter when something bad is about to happen. If you have one hand on a spring loaded lever you just let go.

I thought the advantage of the two way splitter is that when you're done making a split you just put the next round to split on the other side of the wedge and run it the other way. No need to retract the cylinder first like on a one way splitter.

 

[Doug Morford]

What's dangerous is having to find the lever and move it to stop the splitter when something bad is about to happen. If you have one hand on a spring loaded lever you just let go.

I thought the advantage of the two way splitter is that when you're done making a split you just put the next round to split on the other side of the wedge and run it the other way. No need to retract the cylinder first like on a one way splitter.

I can see that. I'm thinking I'd have the detent set low enough that if there's a problem or a knot it will pop to neutral. I can see where it's a little more dangerous in the event I get my finger in a jamb or something. I'm not an aloof person with equipment though. I can definitely see how this wouldn't be a good idea for some people.

You're right, that is the idea. But I usually have to keep the wedge moving for 8-12 inches past the point where the piece is split in order to make room for the round. It would speed it up quite a bit if it finished the stroke on its own. Plus I'd have more control of the splits as they fall apart if I had an extra hand, which would also speed things up considerably.

I bought this splitter because it's decent for the money and is probably faster than a conventional style. Tamarack splits so easy though, that it's hard for a regular machine to beat doing it by hand. I just want this machine to be as efficient as it can be. What i really want to do is convert a larger machine to a box wedge. Now that would be fast.

 

[Eman85]

OK, at first I didn't realize or read it's a 2 way splitter. No wonder there is no detent. As I said no one would ever recommend doing this. I guess if you buy a conventional valve with a detent for tract you could try to chop your fingers off with it, but only in one direction.

 

[Doug Morford]

OK, at first I didn't realize or read it's a 2 way splitter. No wonder there is no detent. As I said no one would ever recommend doing this. I guess if you buy a conventional valve with a detent for tract you could try to chop your fingers off with it, but only in one direction.

That's nice.

 

[ericm979]

I can see that. I'm thinking I'd have the detent set low enough that if there's a problem or a knot it will pop to neutral. I can see where it's a little more dangerous in the event I get my finger in a jamb or something. I'm not an aloof person with equipment though. I can definitely see how this wouldn't be a good idea for some people.

I'm pretty cautious and rarely have an accident. But I have had to stop the splitter a couple times lest I squish a finger. It does not take much time to get a round balanced so it only needs one hand to hold it on the splitter. You may want to look into log cradles for your splitter to help position the rounds.

You're lucky to have wood that splits so easily. Most of the species I split require the wedge to go all the way and even then it's not always enough.

 

[Doug Morford]

I'm pretty cautious and rarely have an accident. But I have had to stop the splitter a couple times lest I squish a finger. It does not take much time to get a round balanced so it only needs one hand to hold it on the splitter. You may want to look into log cradles for your splitter to help position the rounds.

You're lucky to have wood that splits so easily. Most of the species I split require the wedge to go all the way and even then it's not always enough.

I just think everyone has different skillsets. I've spent a lot of time doing dangerous things in my professional life, to the point I'm surprised I've never been seriously injured, and this just doesn't check that box for me. I feel comfortable with it. I do appreciate the perspective though. You have me questioning my confidence, which is good. Thanks for that. Maybe I'll just make due and start planning the box wedge build.

 

[hedge wood]

Doug If you really want a double dent valve they are out there. Look at brandhyd.com out of Omaha Ne. They have a LS spool valve that can be set up with a dent both ways. I have ran one of there double dent valve on a firewood processor for years. You will need to install a gauge to set the dents. It won't be a cheap valve. They will put the kit in the valve to have the double dents. I wouldn't want one on a regular type wood splitter like you have. I think with the kind of wood you are splitting you need to look into a kinetic splitter like a super split.