BK King or Kuma Sequoia

[DewDog]

It looks like a 48" bump out for the old fireplace. If so, that is a typical width. I'm a little surprised the chase was not insulated.

You might want to consider a BK Princess Ultra for that space. it will just fit in a 48" alcove.

If I can get the 52"-53" by removing the vertical double 2x6 and brick would the BK King work? If so its a done deal I'm getting the King. I haven't found anything on the side protectors/fan added clearance yet on the BK site. I really need as much heat as possible.
If so I can just put backer board and tile up for the alcove walls.
Say it will work!! haha

 

[DewDog]

Pulling air out of the stove room with the HVAC system can cause lots of problems

bholler what are the concerns with using the central system to help move the warm air? I am not planning on this for all the transfer just as a helper. even now before the install I use the fan side just to help circulate and keep the house at a more equal temp. I just figured using the same thermostat setting would help after the stove install. I would be adding some adjustable return vents to that room to pull air only when needed and shut off at other times. Id be glad to know if this could induce any problems!
Also it was motioned earlier in the thread about the fusible dampers, if I use a ducted fan in the ceiling/floor and it is not a gravity/ free-flow vent do I still need a damper? The intake would not be directly under the exhaust side of the vent if need be. I have found a product, ASLL level to level airshare Fan that I could install above the stove. It has lots of good reviews and I'm sure you all have heard of it being its designed to transfer wood heat from level to level. My clearance from hearth to ceiling is 96"
Thanks in advance!

 

[begreen]

As noted earlier, the BK King has a side shielding option which really helps reduce side clearance requirements. With side shields and fan kit this can be as low as 9", giving it a minimum alcove width of 51" to combustibles. The side shields are standard on the King Ultra model.



The grate should still have a fusible link damper and it won't need a fan. More important will be a cold air return on the opposite side of the room. Or the stairwell might just function for both supply and return with hot air exiting at the top and cold air returning at the bottom.

 

[bholler]

bholler what are the concerns with using the central system to help move the warm air? I am not planning on this for all the transfer just as a helper. even now before the install I use the fan side just to help circulate and keep the house at a more equal temp. I just figured using the same thermostat setting would help after the stove install. I would be adding some adjustable return vents to that room to pull air only when needed and shut off at other times. Id be glad to know if this could induce any problems!
Also it was motioned earlier in the thread about the fusible dampers, if I use a ducted fan in the ceiling/floor and it is not a gravity/ free-flow vent do I still need a damper? The intake would not be directly under the exhaust side of the vent if need be. I have found a product, ASLL level to level airshare Fan that I could install above the stove. It has lots of good reviews and I'm sure you all have heard of it being its designed to transfer wood heat from level to level. My clearance from hearth to ceiling is 96"
Thanks in advance!

Pulling air from the stove room either with the hvac system or other fans can cause a negative pressure in that area leading to all kinds of performance issues including poor draft smoke spillage and even co spillage

 

[weatherguy]

If my house cools I let the FHA furnace do its thing and the short time it runs it really evens out the out. I've never just ran the fan with no heat.

 

[begreen]

Pulling air from the stove room either with the hvac system or other fans can cause a negative pressure in that area leading to all kinds of performance issues including poor draft smoke spillage and even co spillage

In a balanced system there should be no negative pressure, but unfortunately there are many poorly designed systems out there and then there are owners that block off supplies or returns without understanding that they may be imbalancing the system.

 

[bholler]

In a balanced system there should be no negative pressure, but unfortunately there are many poorly designed systems out there and then there are owners that block off supplies or returns without understanding that they may be imbalancing the system.

Or by adding return vents in the stove room without balancing them out.

 

[begreen]

Or by adding return vents in the stove room without balancing them out.

Yes, I recall that happened to a fellow with a basement stove install last year.

 

[bholler]

Yes, I recall that happened to a fellow with a basement stove install last year.

We see it pretty often

 

[begreen]

Too little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.

 

[DewDog]

So to be correct- no fan in vent and no added return vents w/o offset supply vent and still need fusible damper. If it matters I will never burn without basement door open being it is the main avenue for the heat to get to 1st floor. I thought that would help from previous mentioned problems being there would always be open door for equalization . That’s more of a question, if the answer is the same then fair enough.
I may have to move my thermostat..... it’s right across from basement door and never kicks on with a fire going as is.
Will definitely buy co2 detector,
Should the forced air vent be equal to the return vent ratio? 1:1

I do appreciate the help, Im one hell of a lot better off by joining this group!
Apparently that could’ve been literal!