He's about 120 mi. from me; To dry Oak, you are looking at three years, maybe two if you have a lot of wind hitting the stacks. It's been wet here the last couple of summers as well, which doesn't help.
What make/model fireplace is in there currently? Some fireplaces, especially some contractor grade units use a chimney pipe that is not the class A HT needed for a wood stove. Best to check that. Also, have you checked and compared the alcove clearance requirements for each stove to be sure they can be met in the alcove?
I called the manufacturer on the Sequoia alcove clearance. That’s the reason I’m going fire brick. I will meet the 8” clearance and 90+ for height. As for wood the property was logged 4 years back so I have lots of oak, ash, maple and have a lot of standing dead locust. I currently burn wood in the garage as sole heating source. I have plenty stacked and some for the past 2 years. I’m changing the flue to class A. What’s the best pipe to use? I’ve seen a couple different manufacturers. It will be going up a chase with 2x4 and osb brick exterior . The old unit used double wall 8” majestic. So it’s gotta come out. At least I’ll get to keep my cap!
Those tops still need to be split and stacked for them to dry out. I would go after the Ash first, it will dry quicker than Oak. The Locust may be ready to burn if all the bark has fallen off. If you put the saw to it and see chips that are more brown than yellow, it's ready!
Your right about that! The walnut I cut yesterday has been down for 4 years and off the ground. It weighed as much as it would green. Rain and humidity around here are huge factors. I’m good on wood I’ve got stacks scattered around in the woods that have been stacked for years. Ash is the main target hate to see it go to waste.Those tops still need to be split and stacked for them to dry out. I would go after the Ash first, it will dry quicker than Oak. The Locust may be ready to burn if all the bark has fallen off. If you put the saw to it and see chips that are more brown than yellow, it's ready!
Take the wood talk over to the thread in the wood shed on this topic please. It's confusing to have this off topic chatter in this thread.Those tops still need to be split and stacked for them to dry out. I would go after the Ash first, it will dry quicker than Oak. The Locust may be ready to burn if all the bark has fallen off. If you put the saw to it and see chips that are more brown than yellow, it's ready!
So far I am skeptical about this plan, but that could be because more details are needed and some pictures of the existing setup would help. The Sequoia needs 62" width minimum for the alcove. It needs 25" side clearance to combustibles, not 8". Is the current alcove 62" wide?
I didn't randomly start talking about wood, I didn't think. If he wants to heat 4K ft. with a cat stove, he needs dry wood...it's part of his "which stove" question, IMO, and I'm pretty sure he doesn't have cat experience. With new members, we have no idea how much they know about drying wood. As it turns out, sounds like he's in pretty good shape with his wood supply.
I’ll get some pictures up soon. I have the Sequoia install printed out. I found on page 4 the optional areas diagram. I took the dotted area as masonry. The guy I spoke with at kuma said that 8” was the least clearance for any install.
Actually the entire face, both sides to the drywall. There is a double joist each side for the header that was there for the last fireplace. After that comes out the top header will be tall enough for Sequoia clearance not sure on the BK. The flue, 30 degrees-now to the right corner and then up the chase. With new alcove I could then run new flue centered back and up. The old hearth I think makes everything to tight and is to narrow to meet any clearance. Trust me I don’t like the idea of all that being torn out $$ but if I don’t the stove would set out in the room somewhat in front of the stairs. It is the basement, its a walk out.
Agreed. The brickwork looks like all facade for the ZC. Having a plan view of that area with actual dimensions and the location of the nearby stairwell would help.
Center of stove to staircase is 8’6”. I’m guessing to new hearth to be approx 6’. It looks like BK is narrowing to the only possibility .
If taken out what do I put in its place? I looked at rear venting stoves and thought about putting a cover over the opening. However I haven’t found a stove that supplies the btu output i need.
You dont put anything in its place other than drywall and run the pipe straight up to a support box for the new chimney.
I think he wants to keep the stove from protruding too much into the room and therefore to have the new support box and chimney still in the exterior bump out and chase. It may be possible to have the stove outside the chase alcove, but with an offset in the connector to the support box. This is much easier to do sitting down with a sketch that shows true dimensions and locations of the opening and the staircase.
