Co2 ?

[OldJotul]

So we installed a vintage Jotul F8 late last spring. This year we are using the stove. It feels like learning process as far as opening and closing the damper. Maybe it's a draft issue I'm not sure but is the damper ever supposed to be fully closed? Like at night when you go to bed should you close it all the way? My Co2 alarm has gone off twice since using this stove. Our house is a newer house so it's probably fairly air tight. I have to say it makes me pretty paranoid, it can't be a creosote issue unless after 10-20 fires you have a creosote buildup.
Thanks for your help!

 

[stoveliker]

That's a CO alarm. Carbon monoxide. And it kills.

Yes, it's likely a draft i(reversal) ssue. Do you have pics and stack height data of the set up?

 

[OldJotul]

Does this help and thanks for your response!

 

[stoveliker]

Hm. I hope others (@bholler ?) who know better are going to chime in.

I would be somewhat concerned about the height of the chimney above the eaves; it seems not to extend above the ridge of the roof. Depending on the wind, and with a dying fire at night resulting in a decreased draft, wind blowing over the ridgeline might blow into the chimney.

Hence I would think it may work better with a slightly taller chimney above the roof. The total height is fine (though you do have a rather long horizontal run, it seems, which does not help), but the airflow over the roof in combination with a colder stove at the end of a burn may be causing this.

On another note, are your clearances met? (Curtain?)

 

[all night moe]

Hard to tell from the pics but it looks as if you transitioned back to standard single wall stove pipe outside?
It looks like after your t-pipe the overall diameter necks back down.
This is would be a fire hazard as well as you're loosing draft from heat loss.

 

[bholler]

I see many potential safety problems there as well as things that would cause poor draft. It is a very unsafe install and shouldn't be used

 

[OldJotul]

So to clarify, the pipe we used is as follows a single wall converter from 8" to 6" at the opening of the stove, the piece going through the wall is a triple wall duravent through the wall pipe. All the other pipe is duravent double wall. As far as the curtain yes it's too close, also a wicker basket filled with kindling is probably not a good idea either.

 

[stoveliker]

The point made, and which I stupidly missed before, is that double wall stove pipe can't be used outside. You need class A chimney.

Apart from the dangers to you and your family, an improper (not to code) install might lead your insurance to not pay out if the place burns down. So you're risking life and property here.

 

[bholler]

So to clarify, the pipe we used is as follows a single wall converter from 8" to 6" at the opening of the stove, the piece going through the wall is a triple wall duravent through the wall pipe. All the other pipe is duravent double wall. As far as the curtain yes it's too close, also a wicker basket filled with kindling is probably not a good idea either.

Ok reducing from 8 to 6 is a problem that will hurt draft.

You have a fairly long horizontal run of undersized pipe that looks like it has clearance issues. That will hurt draft and is a fire hazard.

You have 2 90s again hurting draft.

It doesn't appear that you have adequate hearth protection. Again fire hazard.

The wall pass through looks very questionable.

The transition from chimney pipe to stove pipe is illegal and unsafe. It will also hurt draft.

The exterior stove pipe looks to have clearance issues which is a fire hazard.

The "chimney" is not tall enough which can cause draft issue.

 

[MR. GLO]

If that isn't ss double wall outside that's one reason for c02 the coals are still smoking and cold air at very end of burn is pushing co2 into home...

Seems like stoves with ashpan contribute more to the problem.

With that low chimney height you will get smoke into your soffit area too..

 

[coaly]

So we installed a vintage Jotul F8 late last spring. This year we are using the stove. It feels like learning process as far as opening and closing the damper. Maybe it's a draft issue I'm not sure but is the damper ever supposed to be fully closed? Like at night when you go to bed should you close it all the way? My Co2 alarm has gone off twice since using this stove. Our house is a newer house so it's probably fairly air tight. I have to say it makes me pretty paranoid, it can't be a creosote issue unless after 10-20 fires you have a creosote buildup.
Thanks for your help!

You could have creosote build up after just a few fires with connector pipe outside. The inside cools too fast, and outside all pipe needs to be insulated chimney pipe to stay hot inside. It absolutely must stay above 250* all the way to the top. That pipe will get wet inside from condensing all the water vapor from combustion in the stove and smoke particles stick forming creosote. That is why insulated chimney is required.

Even with a chimney you don't close the flue damper, and never fully close one unless you're trying to stop a chimney fire.

The flue damper is a chimney control for an over drafting chimney. You don't have a chimney to make any draft, alone too much of a draft. When you get a chimney keep it open.