Connecting 45° Elbow To Flexible Chimney Liner Combatibility - Kinda Urgent

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digitalmc

New Member
Aug 6, 2016
32
Cincinnati
I have a fairly ugent request. I'm trying to install a wood burning insert into my existing masonry fireplace and realized the insert is not deep enough to connect the 6" Liner to the opening on the insert. The hole on the insert (Century CW2900) sits about 9"-10" back from the front of the fireplace opening yet the chimney hole itself sits roughly 20" back from the front of the fireplace opening. Even with the flexible liner (2 Ply flex liner from chimneylinerdepot.com) only give me an extra few inches so I'm around 4" too short.

This can be solved by putting a 45° Elbow on top of the Insert. The problem is at Home depot and Lowes these are all single ply elbows. Do I need to have a double ply elbow? Is there any other compatibility issues with using the flexible liner with a 45° Elbow from Home Depot or Lowes? Should I get the black pipe? My liner is 316 stainless steel flex liner

My Insert: https://www.menards.com/main/heatin...entury-cw2900-wood-insert/p-1444444139901.htm

My Liner: http://chimneylinerdepot.com/product/flex-king-pro-chimney-liner-6x20-insert-kit/#select-top-plate

My wife is due tomorrow and we have a fireplace sitting in the middle of my living room... and Home Depot / Lowes is all that is open. Any help appreciated!
 
You could hook it up with a 45* elbow...I'd try really hard to get a solid one and not just the adjustable ones that are commonly available. Make sure you connect it with the male side into the stove and female over the liner.
On second thought...I don't think I would hook it up if I couldn't find a non adjustable one...the adjustable one pop apart too easy...and that Flex King Pro is stiff stuff.
If it were mine, I would want a stainless one piece, like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-inch-stov...hash=item2a48497711:m:mWwg3GwMe_97QB2T3KfN2rQ
 
You could hook it up with a 45* elbow...I'd try really hard to get a solid one and not just the adjustable ones that are commonly available. Make sure you connect it with the male side into the stove and female over the liner.
On second thought...I don't think I would hook it up if I couldn't find a non adjustable one...the adjustable one pop apart too easy...and that Flex King Pro is stiff stuff.
If it were mine, I would want a stainless one piece, like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-inch-stov...hash=item2a48497711:m:mWwg3GwMe_97QB2T3KfN2rQ

Thabks so much! So is that one rated for a fireplace? How would I know if it was?
 
Thabks so much! So is that one rated for a fireplace? How would I know if it was?
I'm pretty sure it will be fine, we have discussed this scenario here before and nobody has mentioned a problem with doing it this way...it is just basically a elbow version of the appliance adapter that comes with the liner.
Notice it is not a 45*, but a 30*, which would probably be a more commonly used angle for what you are doing, I'm sure there are 45s available if that's what you need.
 
I'm pretty sure it will be fine, we have discussed this scenario here before and nobody has mentioned a problem with doing it this way...it is just basically a elbow version of the appliance adapter that comes with the liner.
Notice it is not a 45*, but a 30*, which would probably be a more commonly used angle for what you are doing, I'm sure there are 45s available if that's what you need.
Cool, sorry for the duplicate thread. Would the black "stove pipe" work alright at Lowe's?
 
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Cool, sorry for the duplicate thread. Would the black "stove pipe" work alright at Lowe's?
If it is a non-adjustable one, it will give you a year or two of service...you'll want to order a SS one to replace it with eventually...
 
You cannot black stove pipe there just order a stainless one. Honestly I have never seen a stainless 45 for a liner only 15s and 30s but they may be out there.
 
You cannot black stove pipe there just order a stainless one. Honestly I have never seen a stainless 45 for a liner only 15s and 30s but they may be out there.
I have an idea about what the issue may be using steel there, but is the problem from a pros point of view?
 
I have an idea about what the issue may be using steel there, but is the problem from a pros point of view?
well for starters it does not meet code by code everything that is not accessible needs to be ss. The real reason is the that black pipe will eventually burn out or rust through and because it is not visible it will be missed causing a safety issue
 
well for starters it does not meet code by code everything that is not accessible needs to be ss. The real reason is the that black pipe will eventually burn out or rust through and because it is not visible it will be missed causing a safety issue
That's what I was thinking...
 
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Awesome! You guys are awesome. I'll just post pone a day and order a stainless one. Thanks!
Might even be a couple days ;) gotta take good care of momma n the little one...congrats BTW, hope everthing goes well!
Just scooch that insert to the side for a bit until the oops man can bring you that elbow, things should fit better then...may still be tight though...insert installs can be tricky to get everything to fit right sometimes. I have one that I'm getting ready to install myself...there is a free standing stove there now that fits just right...the insert is slightly larger so we'll see how it goes...preliminary measurements look good...
 
Might even be a couple days ;) gotta take good care of momma n the little one...congrats BTW, hope everthing goes well!
Just scooch that insert to the side for a bit until the oops man can bring you that elbow, things should fit better then...may still be tight though...insert installs can be tricky to get everything to fit right sometimes. I have one that I'm getting ready to install myself...there is a free standing stove there now that fits just right...the insert is slightly larger so we'll see how it goes...preliminary measurements look good...

Hey sorry for delayed response. Thanks for the congrats! We are pretty excited. I'll run by the fireplace store tomorrow and see what's in stock. You stopped me from making a bad decision, that's why I appreciate this site. You were great, thanks again!
 
So I talked tot eh guys at chimneylinerdepot.com and they suggested teh 90 degree adjustable. Would you stay away from adjustable elbows even directly from the manufacture or was this simply a Home Depot restriction?
 
So I talked tot eh guys at chimneylinerdepot.com and they suggested teh 90 degree adjustable. Would you stay away from adjustable elbows even directly from the manufacture or was this simply a Home Depot restriction?
Yes I would absolutely never put an adjustable elbow in a situation like that.
 
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How do you feel about these offset-adaptors: http://chimneylinerdepot.com/product/6-inch-adjustable-offset-insert-adaptor-copy/

A stock 45 won't fit where my chimney is designed.

Also buying an adapter from a 3rd party voids my warrenty... does this even matter? Do these liners go bad and if chimneylinerdepot.com doesn't have what I'm looking for is it worth it to just look somewhere else and void the warrenty or chop up my chimney to get it to work? The latter sounds dramatic and I'd employ a mason.
 
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So I talked tot eh guys at chimneylinerdepot.com and they suggested teh 90 degree adjustable. Would you stay away from adjustable elbows even directly from the manufacture or was this simply a Home Depot restriction?
CLD full o' poo on this one! I sure as heck wouldn't do it in my house...especially with a FKP liner...stiff suckas!
And as bholler said earlier...with it tucked away behind that surround...you might not even know if the elbow started to pop apart! I've had brand new galvanized elbows (used on duct work) pop apart on me before I got it adjusted/installed...its not that difficult to do. Look at how they're made...not that strong really...
 
I had to use what my chimney guy had which was 18 gauge ss 15* or 30*, cant remember what i used. I stuck a ss self tapper through the crimp from the inside also. I dont think ill have a problem but yeah the non swivel would be the way to go. 20160108_081025~2.jpg
 
Thanks so much guys, so it seems like if the 45 won't work and the offset is a bad idea it may need some masonry work. Here are 2 quick videos showing you exactly what I'm working with:

Structure and spacing:



Trying to install adapters:


Suggestions appreciated! We're a day past due and no baby yet so I have a little extra time!
 
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Nice vid! I would cut the bottom where the crimp is as much as possible so the swivel part is just resting on the stove lip. Maybe its enough to clear that steel. Stick some ss self tappers through the crimp to help it stay together. Maybe the non swivel adaptor cut down would work better.
 
Yeah cut the bottom off the elbow hopefully it will fit otherwise you will be stuck with cutting the lintel out a bit. We have done it and then welded a plate it to reinforce the section we cut out of the back side.
 
Maybe the non swivel adaptor cut down would work better.
I think it will, they tend to be a bit more "compact" and would lend themselves to being cut down a little shorter than an adjustable type would IMO
 
BTW, I have a little Amish stove shop nearby that makes his own elbows/etc, I'm sure he could make a SS 45* for you if that would help...he's cheap too. I paid $18 for a SS 8" tee and cap a couple years ago!
 
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BTW, I have a little Amish stove shop nearby that makes his own elbows/etc, I'm sure he could make a SS 45* for you if that would help...he's cheap too. I paid $18 for a SS 8" tee and cap a couple years ago!

Wow guys thanks so much! Sorry my wife had the baby yesterday so I went MIA for a bit. If the lintel is important to keep in tact I can try to cut the SS elbow... I just hate voiding the warranty... O well. I'll let you know about the Amish stove shop. Depending on where my warranty lands that may be a good idea. Seems like cutting the elbow is the way to go.

Another odd idea is what if I recessed the stove in the fireplace... Would that be less or more efficient in terms of heat? I could then use mesh chains to hide the gap which would still allow airflow to the vents. Just another thought.
 
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