Durablack 48" pipe failed in first year

[Galadhlinn]

Hello,
I live at 4,000' in north central WA right on the U.S./CA border. Winters are long and harsh here, and a woodstove in the shop is a must. My shop is 36X48 with a peak 20' from the slab (inside). The stove sits in the middle of the shop with the pipe exiting 3' away from the ridge. I have an older (pre epa) large woodstove (8") with an inside box of 16" X 24" lined with fire brick and stainless steel panels. I did the install last year and used new 4 each 48" X 8" Durablack single wall pipes up to the slip/box. The pipe is already failing on the female/receiver ends where the male ends sits/stops. I've never had inside pipe fail before it was at least 10 years old (over 40 years of 7 chords each year). I've also never had an inside pipe run this long/high, so I'm guessing this has something to do with it. I burn mostly Doug Fir that is split and dry, occasionally a small amount of aspen or oak also split and dry. Draft seems fine with no inside smoking and is easy to light.
Question:
What are my options?

Thanks

 

[DAKSY]

Based on the heat you may be creating, that single-wall
connector pipe may be too thin...
I believe Dura black is 24 gauge.
22 gauge welded seam pipe is probably a better option,

 

[Highbeam]

Just to be sure, you have it installed male end down towards the stove right? Otherwise the funk could “puddle” in the overlap even if it’s not bad enough to pour out.

My shop stove is epa certified but in the manual limits the amount of single wall to a 10’ run which is what I have. You’re at 16’ plus the slip of 8” single wall so you need to run that stove pretty hot to keep the system dry.

 

[Highbeam]

You can buy stainless steel single wall.

 

[Galadhlinn]

Thanks for the replies.

Yes, always male end down. I spent five years as a roofer, same principle, laps face downhill.
I too read that my run/height could cause issues (mostly with draft), but I'm stuck with it, as any lower down the roof would cause issues with all the snow we get here.

I've looked at stainless but wanted to hear from others before investing in it. The Durablack failed so fast it shocked me. I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something important and throw good money after bad.

 

[Highbeam]

Your other choice is double wall black interior pipe. It’s stainless on the inside and steel on the outside. The double wall keeps a lot more heat in the flue than single wall so draft is stronger and the stainless means no rust.

 

[armanidog]

Since your shop stove runs hot and then cools off at night, do you think you get a lot of condensation in the pipe? You may need to go to stainless just because of the possible rust.

 

[begreen]

Since your shop stove runs hot and then cools off at night, do you think you get a lot of condensation in the pipe? You may need to go to stainless just because of the possible rust.

This is what I was thinking, assuming that nothing corrosive is being burned. I haven't heard of a 24 ga pipe failing this quickly in a wood burner. Is it just the one piece or all the pipe? For sure I would switch to DVL in order to get the stainless liner. Give Duravent tech support a call too. Maybe they can help you out with the replacement pipe.

 

[kennyp2339]

replace pipe to make safe, install pipe damper to slow things down, invest in stove top thermometer and try to keep temps below 700

 

[Galadhlinn]

Thanks again for the replies.
Based on my past 40 years (30 with this stove), the stove is not running hot. It is running just right.
I suspect that the long run is concentrating creosote and increasing the corrosiveness. Perhaps the quality of the steel is not what it was back then. This stove spent its first 18 years with an 8' interior run, and I only replaced the single wall pipe once, I think either a single wall stainless or a double wall with stainless liner will be an improvement. I'm hoping that the length of run is not too much for any stove pipe. Another option is ag irrigation pipe. Some folks around here use it because it is handy and far cheaper than store-bought stove pipe. It is one eight thick, and you can get it in long lengths and weld it.

 

[Tar12]

Thanks again for the replies.
Based on my past 40 years (30 with this stove), the stove is not running hot. It is running just right.
I suspect that the long run is concentrating creosote and increasing the corrosiveness. Perhaps the quality of the steel is not what it was back then. This stove spent its first 18 years with an 8' interior run, and I only replaced the single wall pipe once, I think either a single wall stainless or a double wall with stainless liner will be an improvement. I'm hoping that the length of run is not too much for any stove pipe. Another option is ag irrigation pipe. Some folks around here use it because it is handy and far cheaper than store-bought stove pipe. It is one eight thick, and you can get it in long lengths and weld it.

I got ahold of some 6 inch round 1/4 inch thick pipe from a contractor along with the flanges and welded the flanges on the pipe and bolted them together for my boiler...worked great and outlasted my boiler at 27 years!