Easily collapsable baffle plate

[Frenchman]

Hi there!


The baffle plate of our Jotul F500 Eco SE has collapsed twice in the past month. Once as I loaded a log and hit the bar holding it. Another time as my father piled too many logs into the stove, thus lifting the baffle plate and dislodging the holding bar.

Since that stove is supposed to be good quality, I find it surprising that it would be so easy to get the baffle plate to collapse. It creates such a terrible situation when it does, and this event also broke our baffle plate.

Indeed, when I took a look, it seems the bar is only held by a hook in the middle, and two small niches on the sides. In that setting it seems logical to me that just pushing the bar with a log would push it out of its hooks.

Are we missing something on our stove? Is this some bad design from Jotul? Or am I misunderstanding something?

Here is a picture:



Thanks a lot in advance for your help!

 

[Fod01]

Hey agaIn....
Paste the link below into your browser. The manual shows the baffle plate and instructions on removal. I think thats all there is to it, but perhaps its not exactly the model you have.

Good luck!

(broken link removed to https://intl.jotul.com/sites/importers/files/products/Manual_F%20500%20ECO_10058558-P06_UK_FR_ES_IT.pdf)

 

[Frenchman]

Thanks a lot for your answer!

While our stove is officially with "SE" at the end, it looks exactly like the one in that manual. Thanks for it by the way, the manual I had was not nearly as detailed.

It doesn't give many precisions, but from reading the part you mention, it seems there isn't more than just the hook, and thus it's very easy to get the baffle plates to collapse.

Don't you find it surprising? Isn't Jotul supposed to be good quality?

 

[Fod01]

I've heard only good things about Jotul. We had an F118 when I was growing up. Great stove.
I'm not sure how old your stove is, but maybe the baffle has eroded after being removed/ re-installed over the years. A new one may fit tighter.

There is a user in Italy, Mirco22, with an F500. Maybe send them a message to get their point of view.

Good luck, and Happy New Year!

 

[Frenchman]

Thanks a lot, happy new year to you too!

Actually our stove is fairly new, we got it 2 years ago....

I'll reach out to @Mirco22

 

[Prometeo]

Thanks a lot, happy new year to you too!

Actually our stove is fairly new, we got it 2 years ago....

I'll reach out to @Mirco22

Hello, Happy new Year to you too! Yes, same exact problem. Now your support iron is a little bent, my advice, like i did, take a ribbed iron, the one for building, 8mm if I'm not mistaken, size same length and you should solve, it won't come out anymore. Remotely case you notice it comes out, take an iron or copper wire and tie it to the central support, and end of the hassles. What temperature is your stove?

 

[begreen]

I would use some stainless steel wire instead to tie the support to the rod. It will last longer.

 

[Frenchman]

Hello, Happy new Year to you too! Yes, same exact problem. Now your support iron is a little bent, my advice, like i did, take a ribbed iron, the one for building, 8mm if I'm not mistaken, size same length and you should solve, it won't come out anymore. Remotely case you notice it comes out, take an iron or copper wire and tie it to the central support, and end of the hassles. What temperature is your stove?

Thanks A LOT for your answer! I am very happy to know that I am not the only one with this problem.

I have no idea at all what the temperature is, I haven't installed any thermometer. I am curious though as to what the consequence would be to the problem. What makes you wonder about this?

On the solutions you suggest, would you by any chance have a picture of what you did? It would help me a lot get a clearer understanding.

Thanks again very much

 

[Prometeo]

Thanks A LOT for your answer! I am very happy to know that I am not the only one with this problem.

I have no idea at all what the temperature is, I haven't installed any thermometer. I am curious though as to what the consequence would be to the problem. What makes you wonder about this?

On the solutions you suggest, would you by any chance have a picture of what you did? It would help me a lot get a clearer understanding.

Thanks again very much

hi, first photo you see my new iron, it's an 8mm ribbed steel bar, for reinforced concrete, to let you understand (second photo) Compared to the original bar (bent and difficult to repair) new bar diameter is a little bigger, and stays in place. There are no repercussions. In my opinion the stove is good but it is very important adjustments, draw and wood above all. Concerning adjustments my ash ratchet is completely open. With the door closed, air enters from below and this allows better combustion, higher temperature and less ash I suppose. My baffle isn't broken, Fortunately.

 

[Todd]

Don’t burn your stove with the ash door open, you’ll create a forge and create a lot of damage!

 

[Prometeo]

Don’t burn your stove with the ash door open, you’ll create a forge and create a lot of damage!

the door is closed, it must be closed, the internal grate can be closed or left open, and the ash falls down automatically. Well this way, with my wood, ash grate open,
when I add new pieces, they start in just a few minutes, if I have grate closed, they don't burn, or they take too long to start, just making smoke. It's not forge effect, it's just a little air from below, vital. If I put a big log inside, it takes too long to start well burn, making everything dirty. Good, 30 seconds to open the ash door is enough and the forge effect begins, even with a few coals,
everything starts burning, I close the door and fire is good immediately, normal, without forge effect. I have read many posts but many jotul 500 although different from mine, they're at 400 F in the center, too little! My center is 650 corners 500.
A light breath from below is good, if then draft is too much to intervene in another way

 

[Frenchman]

This SUPER interesting, thank you VERY MUCH

I am glad to know that I am not the only one with the problem. But it seems very surprising to me that Jotul would have done such a bad design choice. Do you have any idea as to why that is? I thought Jotul was good quality.

I remember my partner mentioned something about the ash grate when we first bought it. At first we operated with it closed, and had problems, but I don't remember which ones. After a while she realized she should open it. I'll ask her and let you know.

Thank you again VERY MUCH

hi, first photo you see my new iron, it's an 8mm ribbed steel bar, for reinforced concrete, to let you understand (second photo) Compared to the original bar (bent and difficult to repair) new bar diameter is a little bigger, and stays in place. There are no repercussions. In my opinion the stove is good but it is very important adjustments, draw and wood above all. Concerning adjustments my ash ratchet is completely open. With the door closed, air enters from below and this allows better combustion, higher temperature and less ash I suppose. My baffle isn't broken, Fortunately.

View attachment 306947 View attachment 306948

ng

 

[Prometeo]

This SUPER interesting, thank you VERY MUCH

I am glad to know that I am not the only one with the problem. But it seems very surprising to me that Jotul would have done such a bad design choice. Do you have any idea as to why that is? I thought Jotul was good quality.

I remember my partner mentioned something about the ash grate when we first bought it. At first we operated with it closed, and had problems, but I don't remember which ones. After a while she realized she should open it. I'll ask her and let you know.

Thank you again VERY MUCH

ng

probably it's just a stock of bars with a small diameter, but i don't surprise, I believe every stove, everything has flaws we are in the era of maximizing earnings, at the expense of quality what are you surprised?!