Fast burning jotul

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BSS

Member
Nov 3, 2019
8
Rhode Island
Fire seems to burn out quickly even when fully damped down. Cold in morning , no coals. F500 model. Is there a method for determining which gaskets to replace or corners to seal?
 
Use “the dollar bill test”.
You take a dollar bill and close in the door of a cold stove. If it slides out easily- that area of the gasket if letting some air in and making the burn quicker. Test several part of the door. If not the door, maybe the ash door gasket is letting air in somewhere and needs replacement. If not that, perhaps the glass gasket.
 
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Which f500? the new v3 model or and older one?
 
Old model
Ok that's good. Just a matter of tracking down where you might have any air leaks. Dollar bill test and smoke also works around any doors, lid, ash pan area, sides where they meet with the other side plates, flue collar and flue pipe etc. Look for the smoke from your smoke stick getting sucked in through any gaps.
 
v3 does the same thing for me since day 1. I heard about plugging the holes in the bottom with some magnets. I am going to try that this season.
 
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Fully damped here. Door gaskets all appear tight. Smoke test... Are you suggesting I light a stick or something outside of the stove and hold it near the stoves seams? Elementary level here...
Thanks
 
Is this a new to you stove or something that just started happening? Maybe you’re not shutting her down soon enough? Are you monitoring temps?
 
Is this a new to you stove or something that just started happening? Maybe you’re not shutting her down soon enough? Are you monitoring temps?
Usually start wide open, move to half after about 30 mins, then as the stove is fully hot go full damper. Second load of wood is full damper almost immediately. It's always acted like this but I'm motivated to do something about it this year.
 
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Fully damped here. Door gaskets all appear tight. Smoke test... Are you suggesting I light a stick or something outside of the stove and hold it near the stoves seams? Elementary level here...
Thanks
Yes - Really you can use anything that makes smoke. Piece of paper or cardboard lit then blown out, cigar, cigarette, matches, maybe even steam from super hot coffee? Hold the smoke just below anywhere 2 surfaces meet. The Pic Looks to be pulling in extra air. Also definitely find and cover the 2 air holes on the ash pan housing if your stove has them.

The number 1 suspect would be door seals.
Number 2 would be factory drilled air holes in ash pan housing.
Number 3 anywhere side panels meet each other, or the top, or base pieces.
 
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I noticed that over time, my the top front corners around the gasket were not perfect and let air in but only noticed when I had other issues that let smoke out.
 
Getting back to this...smoke seems to get sucked behind the stove and up. All seams and gaskets produce nothing. Hard to tell w/o burning my arm. Meant I check for ash tray holes. Seems like I bought this from some ash holes. Is there an inlet I can partially cover somewhere?
 
First suspect is the ashpan door seal, then door seals. Do the door gaskets still pass the dollar bill test?

While looking, clean out the firebox, wipe down the area around the grate and make sure that the base is not cracked around the grate.
 
I blocked the air inlet with some tinfoil and poked a hole to let enough air through to allow combustion. Drastically slows down the burn. Probably not the right long term solution but certainly made a big difference.
 
My guess would be cracked bottom/top, or missing cement in the middle bottom behind the bricks. Did you buy it restored by a professional?