I believe wet wood will have a sizzling sound when burning, where you can see the water boiling at the ends of the splits. I can assure you that this has not been the case. Perhaps the wood can still have a high moisture content and not see the moisture boil at the split ends? Yes, it can, although in my experience, I have most always heard a sizzle when I put something with a high MC in. I believe the concept of the stove is a fairly simple design. As the stove temperature increases, so does the flue temperature which pulls a strong draft, air into the inducer slide opening. The air flow SHOULD either pull the smoke and exit out of the chimney or if hot enough, burn the secondary gases. Experience tells me that the stove is going to be at its coolest point either when starting or reloading, therefore not the strongest draft. Your barometric damper maintains steady draft (before it exploded),and the manometer readings showed that draft to be steady, and at spec, when the explosions were happening. Changing draft, or anything related to draft, is IMO not an issue. IMO the lack of primary air, restricted by the slider, allows for smoke to build up to much and chokes the fire. This is why I believe it takes so long for the fire to recover without a really hot bed of ambers to help recover the fire. Further, when reloading, the splits placed on the hot ambers, seem to cool the hot ambers which also chokes out the fire. IMO the over abundance of primary air (not lack of), vs. what the secondary setup can process, is the problem. And also the cause of the glowing metal pics we have seen - those gave me the willies. I am no way suggesting this stove is junk, just for myself, I have experienced to many issues and would like a refund or some form of compensation. I think I would make that suggestion.