Fisher Insert

IrinaAVL

New Member
Jan 30, 2021
2
Asheville, NC
We recently bought a house with what I believe is a Fisher Fireplace Insert that was installed by the previous owner. We had a chimney inspection so we know it is installed correctly, and we have used it with no issues. The Fireplace Insert does not have the surround/flashing/trim kit and air deflector so we are trying to purchase one to finish the fireplace façade. Right now the façade is brick and cinderblock and we are going to have it professionally finished with tile, mantle, the hearth extended, etc. I know this is a discontinued item, but is there a way to purchase the surround for it, is there another option as a substitute for the OEM surround replacement, or any other solution that anyone knows of? Thanks!!

IMG_20210129_130809362.jpg IMG_20210129_131116889.jpg
 

coaly

Fisher Moderator
Staff member
Dec 22, 2007
4,179
NE PA
Sheet Metal was used so it was light weight to remove. Two pieces on the sides and one across the top overlapped. It was called flashing and made of cold rolled mild steel.

It's all about the gauge (thickness) you select for rigidity. You can see the difference at Home Depot in the metal rack to compare thickness to determine what you want. Any steel supplier or fabrication / welding shop should have what you want. Or you can order kits such as found below that are adjustable.
Measure for what you need; https://www.fireplacesdirect.com/black-regular-faceplate-trim-kit-29-x-44-inches-for-osburn-1100-1600-1800-2000-2200-and-2400-wood-inserts.html?gclid=CjwKCAiApNSABhAlEiwANuR9YMm9Nuuv8n6LNhS6cCCtHCt5UPtOylcRgyZuSzUCSZ00cM1pXm0JnRoCdX4QAvD_BwE

Keyword search; fireplace insert surround kit.

Here are far too many to choose from;
fireplace-insert-facings-and-surrounds.html
 

coaly

Fisher Moderator
Staff member
Dec 22, 2007
4,179
NE PA
If you don't have the air deflector for the front, that is a very important part to fabricate. The manual shows how it attaches and diverts hot air away from mantel and wall.
The manual is uploaded last page first, so scroll to the bottom for a good drawing of the front of insert showing diverter angled across the front. You will find holes where it bolts on.
fishinsertmanual.pdf
 

coaly

Fisher Moderator
Staff member
Dec 22, 2007
4,179
NE PA
If there is combustible flooring around that hearth pad you're going to need a hearth extension so the floor protection extends 18 inches in all directions minimum.

The right door handle is in need of adjustment. If you have a torch, heat the latch rod where it bends on the back side of the door so it is more of a 90* angle. The rod has straightened out a bit from over tightening the door. The latch rod bends fairly easily with a big wrench, but if it is not heated to a dull red glow when bending, it will go back to the angle it's at now. Notice the latch rod contacts a wedge welded to the inside of the stove door frame. When adjusted properly the angle of the two handles will match when latched. The left handle does not move, so bend the rod inside enough to tighten against wedge so the handle stops higher, at the same angle.
 

IrinaAVL

New Member
Jan 30, 2021
2
Asheville, NC
If there is combustible flooring around that hearth pad you're going to need a hearth extension so the floor protection extends 18 inches in all directions minimum.

The right door handle is in need of adjustment. If you have a torch, heat the latch rod where it bends on the back side of the door so it is more of a 90* angle. The rod has straightened out a bit from over tightening the door. The latch rod bends fairly easily with a big wrench, but if it is not heated to a dull red glow when bending, it will go back to the angle it's at now. Notice the latch rod contacts a wedge welded to the inside of the stove door frame. When adjusted properly the angle of the two handles will match when latched. The left handle does not move, so bend the rod inside enough to tighten against wedge so the handle stops higher, at the same angle.
@coaly Thank you for all the information!