Harman P61 manual turn off in room mode.

[Whitenuckler]

It started running away again, so nothing's changed. It ran about 24 hours at a temps around 340, Temperatures dropped outside and climbed inside, so I checked it and it was at 365 and climbing. I turned it down to 2, which won't be warm enough, so I'll turn it back up when it hits that point or before bed, and see what it like in the morning.

I forget. Does this have outside air? At 365F, you might be at idle, it can't regulate anymore.

 

[Spaz]

I forget. Does this have outside air? At 365F, you might be at idle, it can't regulate anymore.

Idle is somewhere around 250-270. And no, drawing from inside. Been like that since day 1. This has been going on for like 2 months. And every time I shut it down and restart it those numbers change. I'll be nursing it through the night and shutting it off tomorrow, When I start it back up Tuesday I'll see different numbers. Idles pretty consistent, it's at 3 and above is where it all starts to go stupid, just like start up did. From the looks of the weather I won't be running it for more then a week and the temps are going to be to hot any way. I've not had issues at 1 and 2. I'm looking to see if there's a pattern, but as for what the problem is I'm lost, there's nothing more to fix. And it this point unless I don't need to use 3 or higher, it's useless. Except if it's really cold outside,then it runs above the temperatures it's running away at. And at this point the tech has no answers either. So it will be junk come summer. Right now it's dropping from 77, when it hits 72ish, I'm turning it back up.

 

[Whitenuckler]

Idle is somewhere around 250-270. And no, drawing from inside. Been like that since day 1. This has been going on for like 2 months. And every time I shut it down and restart it those numbers change. I'll be nursing it through the night and shutting it off tomorrow, When I start it back up Tuesday I'll see different numbers. Idles pretty consistent, it's at 3 and above is where it all starts to go stupid, just like start up did. From the looks of the weather I won't be running it for more then a week and the temps are going to be to hot any way. I've not had issues at 1 and 2. I'm looking to see if there's a pattern, but as for what the problem is I'm lost, there's nothing more to fix. And it this point unless I don't need to use 3 or higher, it's useless. Except if it's really cold outside,then it runs above the temperatures it's running away at. And at this point the tech has no answers either. So it will be junk come summer. Right now it's dropping from 77, when it hits 72ish, I'm turning it back up.

You still have room mode to try but I'd not keep the probe in the back of the stove, although you can try that first. Just keep it low about a foot away from the back of the stove in the room air flow. Free to try.

 

[Spaz]

You still have room mode to try but I'd not keep the probe in the back of the stove, although you can try that first. Just keep it low about a foot away from the back of the stove in the room air flow. Free to try.

I ran it on 2 all night, stayed at 300. Turned it up at 5:30 am to 3 and it's been holding at 350 for 2.5 hours. So it basically runs okay for half a day if it's above 3 and craps out. And takes 12 hours ( maybe less) below 3 to reset. Not very reliable, or useful.

You still have room mode to try but I'd not keep the probe in the back of the stove, although you can try that first. Just keep it low about a foot away from the back of the stove in the room air flow. Free to try.

I have 3 rooms on the main floor, which are being feed from the middle one. They all have different requirements. The back room ( living room) is the priority, so I have no idea how to use it in a room 20 feet away, around a corner. It would take hours of experimenting to figure that out. Or a remote thermostat in that room, which I don't even know if they make. Good thought, but out of my wheel house this late in the season. By Friday I won't be using this as it will be to hot.

 

[Washed-Up]

Hours of experiminting? Most of us have done that to figure out the efficiency possibly years…it’s worth the time in the long run.

 

[Whitenuckler]

I ran it on 2 all night, stayed at 300. Turned it up at 5:30 am to 3 and it's been holding at 350 for 2.5 hours. So it basically runs okay for half a day if it's above 3 and craps out. And takes 12 hours ( maybe less) below 3 to reset. Not very reliable, or useful.

I have 3 rooms on the main floor, which are being feed from the middle one. They all have different requirements. The back room ( living room) is the priority, so I have no idea how to use it in a room 20 feet away, around a corner. It would take hours of experimenting to figure that out. Or a remote thermostat in that room, which I don't even know if they make. Good thought, but out of my wheel house this late in the season. By Friday I won't be using this as it will be to hot.

The thermostat needs to be in the same room as the stove, unless you don't mind the room where the stove is to be cold or hot as compared to the other room. You can pull or push air from where the stove is. My P43 is in the basement rec room. I moved the thermostat to the middle of the room. The stove is in a corner. I pull air from the second floor and blow it behind the stove. Then the heated air comes upstairs in the stairway. When it's all on the same level in different rooms it is much harder. If you had vents and a blower that would help.
I have electric convect heaters in every room for make up heat. I am starting to use my two heat pumps upstairs more, but the weather is not really warming up and staying up. I run my pellet stove all year as it's in the basement and I run it for a few hours sometime to take the chill off. Just try room mode with the probe near the bottom of the stove, and set the temperature as high as you can handle in that room. If the room distribution blower does not need to run, then probably it won't work so good as the air is not moving. A few fans in the room might help in that case.

 

[Spaz]

Hours of experiminting? Most of us have done that to figure out the efficiency possibly years…it’s worth the time in the long run.

Lots of hours, too many hours.

 

[Washed-Up]

worth it in my opinion, do you just put fuel in your car and drive it….nothing else?

 

[Whitenuckler]

Lots of hours, too many hours.

When we stop working on projects, that is bad. I've been in the basement trying to remodel a bathroom. The only thing I'd like to do with the pellet stove is have a raised hearth, or raise it up. I don't like to lay down like a snake to clean.

 

[bogieb]

I use thermostats on both my stoves while they are in room temp / auto mode. I use physical thermostat wire run between the stoves and the thermostat. The thermostats themselves are battery operated. I use Lux DMH110 series since I don't need programmable.

My need was to have my office at a fairly constant temp since that is where I spend most of my time as WFH. It happens to be located in just about the middle of my 24x40 house. The living room (stove location) does get a wide swing in temperature, but that is okay. At the same time, the far rooms keep at about 65-66* (which is good, since those could get down in the 50's before I set up the thermostat).

I have the thermostat wires run in parallel with the room probe. With the thermostat set at 68* (main floor), the stove starts up at 67* and shuts down at 69*. I'm pretty sure the swing setting can be changed by a jumper, but I am good where it is at.

My basement stove has the thermostat set up on the opposite side of the staircase (which is about central).

 

[Whitenuckler]

I use thermostats on both my stoves while they are in room temp / auto mode. I use physical thermostat wire run between the stoves and the thermostat. The thermostats themselves are battery operated. I use Lux DMH110 series since I don't need programmable.

My need was to have my office at a fairly constant temp since that is where I spend most of my time as WFH. It happens to be located in just about the middle of my 24x40 house. The living room (stove location) does get a wide swing in temperature, but that is okay. At the same time, the far rooms keep at about 65-66* (which is good, since those could get down in the 50's before I set up the thermostat).

I have the thermostat wires run in parallel with the room probe. With the thermostat set at 68* (main floor), the stove starts up at 67* and shuts down at 69*. I'm pretty sure the swing setting can be changed by a jumper, but I am good where it is at.

My basement stove has the thermostat set up on the opposite side of the staircase (which is about central).

I believe from your previous pictures, and from what I read, your millivolt thermostat is wired in series with the probe. You would operate with a high room temp on the dial, then the remote thermostat contacts open when the setpoint is reached. This causes a "fault" in the stove (flashing light) as it thinks the probe is bad. The stove shuts down. Later when the contacts close again, the "fault" self resets and the stove restarts. I already had a thermostat in my basement (the old mercury type) so there were wires already to the back of my stove area where the oil furnace is (was). I cut the probe tip off and pot it inside the thermostat box so you can't see it. In room mode, igniter off, it goes to idle, and the room stays exactly at 70F (in winter/fall/spring). I don't think you can make your's idle unless you want a hookup like mine. It would be easy to do in your case, as the wires are already there. Probes are about $20 down there.

 

[Spaz]

Has any one converted a manual light to an auto light? At this point I'm either replacing it or getting something with a high capacity to replace it. I don't have the $8000 to replace it. And I don't see any solutions in the future. Mine has the cradle to hold the ignitor, the new board, but I'll need wiring harness. Am I missing anything?

 

[Whitenuckler]

Has any one converted a manual light to an auto light? At this point I'm either replacing it or getting something with a high capacity to replace it. I don't have the $8000 to replace it. And I don't see any solutions in the future.

I have read about it here. Try a search. It's not that easy, but doable.

 

[Washed-Up]

Thread 'Harman wire harness pin sleeve'

Oct 21, 2019

Does anyone know a source for the pin sleeves in the white connector (plugs onto white 11 pin plug) on the Harman Stoves? I need to add a wire to my existing harness for the Yellow conductor (position 8 of the 11 pin plug) for the addition of an igniter in an effort to convert a P61 to a P61A. A reference of the wiring diagrams for each of the stoves (I have both a P61 and a P61A) shows the difference of the Yellow conductor for pin position 8 and an additional conductor (lt. blue) from the pressure switch (same side of pressure switch that goes to auger motor) connecting to the igniter...

• Nitro-Fish
• Replies: 9
• Forum: The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves

 

[Spaz]

I believe from your previous pictures, and from what I read, your millivolt thermostat is wired in series with the probe. You would operate with a high room temp on the dial, then the remote thermostat contacts open when the setpoint is reached. This causes a "fault" in the stove (flashing light) as it thinks the probe is bad. The stove shuts down. Later when the contacts close again, the "fault" self resets and the stove restarts. I already had a thermostat in my basement (the old mercury type) so there were wires already to the back of my stove area where the oil furnace is (was). I cut the probe tip off and pot it inside the thermostat box so you can't see it. In room mode, igniter off, it goes to idle, and the room stays exactly at 70F (in winter/fall/spring). I don't think you can make your's idle unless you want a hookup like mine. It would be easy to do in your case, as the wires are already there. Probes are about $20 down there.

Interesting I'd have to look into that. Not sure where I'm going to hide all the wires and remotes. I'm wonder if I can do what Quadrafire does, have a remote thermostat that I can hook up to the external temp sensor? That way I can leave the remote on my living room table and turn it on as I please or run it on the thermometer. Although until I figure out why this is running away on it's own I'm not sure I want to do anything.

 

[Washed-Up]

Post in thread 'Used P61, What's My Next Step?'

May 5, 2019

Are the P61A conversion kits available anymore or do you have to order the individual parts?

Hi everyone. I bought an old Harman P61 on Craigslist for $150 after consulting with Don from East Coast Hearth (Thanks Don!). The previous owner told me that they think it needs a new combustion blower because they heard a thud then it started smoking. I'm totally new to Harman so don't know much about diagnostics. Suppose I should turn it on and see what happens? Or should I just buy a new combustion blower and hope that their guess is correct? Thanks.

Here's some photos from the...

• GMadd

 

[Ssyko]

I'm wonder if I can do what Quadrafire does, have a remote thermostat that I can hook up to the external temp sensor? That way I can leave the remote on my living room table and turn it on as I please or run it on the thermometer.

If you have a good knowledge of python or C++ it can be done. Then you need the chip that holds the programming and circuitry to build it. A degree in electronics engineering would help immensely. I would look at an. Enviro Maxx and run the thing.

 

[Whitenuckler]

Not sure where I'm going to hide all the wires and remotes

You would not need a remote to extend the probe, or use a manual millivolt themostat. Wire/cable can be passed on top of baseboards if you can't get into a wall. The cable would be very small.

 

[Whitenuckler]

remote thermostat that I can hook up to the external temp sensor

You can purchase thermostats that use a base unit and are remote from the stove. Some have them here.

 

[Spaz]

If you have a good knowledge of python or C++ it can be done. Then you need the chip that holds the programming and circuitry to build it. A degree in electronics engineering would help immensely. I would look at an. Enviro Maxx and run the thing.

Not in my wheel house

 

[Spaz]

You can purchase thermostats that use a base unit and are remote from the stove. Some have them here.

You can purchase thermostats that use a base unit and are remote from the stove. Some have them here.

That's what I need, who carries them? I just can't have a wire running across my living room floor. Between tripping over it and the cat playing with. Not to mention vacuum cleaners.

 

[Whitenuckler]

That's what I need, who carries them? I just can't have a wire running across my living room floor. Between tripping over it and the cat playing with. Not to mention vacuum cleaners.

Gas Fireplace Remote Control Kit,Thermostat, On/Off Remote Control, Countdown Timer,LCD Screen,for Millivolt Valve System, Replace for skytech 1420-A,1420TH-A,1001-A,1001TH-A, Acumen RCK,and More : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

Gas Fireplace Remote Control Kit,Thermostat, On/Off Remote Control, Countdown Timer,LCD Screen,for Millivolt Valve System, Replace for skytech 1420-A,1420TH-A,1001-A,1001TH-A, Acumen RCK,and More : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.ca

Something like this should work. You would keep your probe, unhook one wire from the stove, and hook this to your stove and probe (in series). Never tried it, but should work. EDIT You would need to install the igniter as this way will shut the stove down. I'd just try your probe first as that will just make the stove go to idle. Here is wire to get at your Home Hardware to extend it. You would just need to crimp on some blade connectors.

 

[bogieb]

I believe from your previous pictures, and from what I read, your millivolt thermostat is wired in series with the probe. You would operate with a high room temp on the dial, then the remote thermostat contacts open when the setpoint is reached. This causes a "fault" in the stove (flashing light) as it thinks the probe is bad. The stove shuts down. Later when the contacts close again, the "fault" self resets and the stove restarts. I already had a thermostat in my basement (the old mercury type) so there were wires already to the back of my stove area where the oil furnace is (was). I cut the probe tip off and pot it inside the thermostat box so you can't see it. In room mode, igniter off, it goes to idle, and the room stays exactly at 70F (in winter/fall/spring). I don't think you can make your's idle unless you want a hookup like mine. It would be easy to do in your case, as the wires are already there. Probes are about $20 down there.

I don't know why I wrote parallel (unless I was thinking about my solar panels LOL). You are correct. it is in series.

Here is the old description of how to hook it up.

That's what I need, who carries them? I just can't have a wire running across my living room floor. Between tripping over it and the cat playing with. Not to mention vacuum cleaners.

I forgot not everyone has a basement - or they have a finished basement so running wires thru the floor is a hassle.