Help with DHT detent valve

Woodsplitter67 Posted By Woodsplitter67, Feb 9, 2019 at 6:09 PM

  1. Woodsplitter67

    Woodsplitter67
    Minister of Fire 2.
    NULL
    

    Jan 19, 2017
    784
    509
    Loc:
    Woolwich nj
    My splitter is a 22 ton DHT log splitter. The detent valve is leaking oil from the back of the valve. Picture attached. It also doesn't hold the auto return all the time or sometimes at all. I would like to know if the valve can be rebuilt. Is there an O ring replacement kit. If not is there a replacement other than the factory replacement that DHT offers fot 100 bucks 20190203_121742.jpg
     
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  2. greg13

    greg13
    Minister of Fire 2.
    NULL
    

    Jan 5, 2012
    869
    258
    Loc:
    CNY
    Might be an O ring, but since the detent does not always hold it tells me it is worn. You could pull it apart and see or just replace it now.
     
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  3. triptester

    triptester
    Feeling the Heat 2.
    NULL
    

    Aug 25, 2006
    348
    91
    Loc:
    S.E.Wisconsin
    Other than a new O-rings there is not much you can do with the DHT valve. Energy brand valves will work as a replacement.
     
  4. FuzzyOne

    FuzzyOne
    Member 2.
    NULL
    

    Nov 30, 2006
    123
    14
    Loc:
    Central NJ
    My older MTD had an Energy valve I replaced. Probably not much difference in the quality of what is on yours. I would recommend going with a Prince valve if you decide to replace it. The Prince valves have readily available parts, adjustable detent, and can be rebuilt. ba2c9e364e8af34023240816a5da4140.jpg 40fdda8815c0550c613cd5d4508b1e16.jpg

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  5. Tegbert

    Tegbert
    Feeling the Heat 2.
    NULL
    

    Sep 15, 2016
    392
    124
    Loc:
    Arlington Wa
    Mines doing the same thing. Just leaking though everything else works fine.


    Lopi Rockport
    Blaze King Ashford 25
     
  6. triptester

    triptester
    Feeling the Heat 2.
    NULL
    

    Aug 25, 2006
    348
    91
    Loc:
    S.E.Wisconsin
    When swapping out control valves on splitters where the valve is directly mounted to the cylinder, the extend and retract ports have to be identified as they are reversed on various brands. On the DHT's and Energy valves the port nearest the handle is the retract port. On the Prince and some other valves the port nearest the handle is the extend port.
     
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  7. FuzzyOne

    FuzzyOne
    Member 2.
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    Nov 30, 2006
    123
    14
    Loc:
    Central NJ
    Excellent point! On my splitter which had the Energy valve, when I replaced it with the Prince, I needed to purchase a longer hose for this reason. I opted to mount the new valve directly to the cylinder to avoid extra 90 degree fittings. Just remember, the more 90 degree bends you have equates to more heat.

    I can add a closeup pic if you need one.

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  8. Tegbert

    Tegbert
    Feeling the Heat 2.
    NULL
    

    Sep 15, 2016
    392
    124
    Loc:
    Arlington Wa
    When swapping out valves is there anything specific you need to do before removing the lines? Or is it just remove them and lift them up so they don’t leak everywhere.


    Lopi Rockport
    Blaze King Ashford 25
     
  9. Dobish

    Dobish
    Minister of Fire 2.
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    Oct 26, 2015
    1,815
    863
    Loc:
    Golden CO
    my auto return acted all weird because the c-clip had come loose, and the bolts on the end were not super tight. i know they had some issues with their hose fittings leaking, but I haven't seen this one leak. then again, i have the little plastic cover that come on it, so I never thought to check :)
     
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  10. Woodsplitter67

    Woodsplitter67
    Minister of Fire 2.
    NULL
    

    Jan 19, 2017
    784
    509
    Loc:
    Woolwich nj
    Thanks for the super heads up.. appreciate you passing on the knowledge
    Ill be ordering a valve.
     
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  11. FuzzyOne

    FuzzyOne
    Member 2.
    NULL
    

    Nov 30, 2006
    123
    14
    Loc:
    Central NJ
    I just removes them.... Let the lines drain a little... and tightened them up to the new valve. I have a filter on the return line to catch anything I missed. I used thread sealant. You shouldn't lose much fluid...

    Once you have everything snug, crank the engine a few times to bleed air out of the lines (pull spark plug wire). You'll be good to go!

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