HIGHEST STOVE TEMPS, WHO HAS EM?

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Just for clarity, this was not for photo purposes either. My stove seems to be happiest at that temp with a full load, every load. Liberties have a track record for running hot

Fair. I really wasn't meaning to sound like others were doing it for the photo op. I just know with my stove it's not good so I wasn't doing it for proof or whatever. This forum has a bunch of folks that know what is best for their own stoves from what I've read and learned here.
 
Steel is steel but the stove design would dictate the specific temperature at which damage would occur. How thin is the welded in airwash plate on my NC30? 1/8" and I've melted it at 700. My BK airwash plate is 1/4" and would be much harder to melt.

If your steel airwash plate melted (or even sagged) you can bet it was a lot hotter than 700F. Not all steel is the same (due in part to numerous different alloys and alloy variations) but, yes, the steel in most stoves will be similar and even the same in numerous cases. But the problem with the term "stove temperature" is that there is no such thing. Temperature always refers to a specific point or location and, with an active fire burning, you will see large temperature variations over very short distances.

With two fireboxes, identical in all respects except one in 1/4" plate steel and the other in 1/2" plate steel behave quite differently (including burn behavior) with the thicker box having lower peak temperatures and less temperature variation throughout.

Also I suspect that 800 degree stove top with a full load at full throttle is more likely to be damaged from heat than an 800 degree stove with a partial load of fuel at 10% throttle. Speaking real throttle, not stat settings.

Of course there is no such thing as an "800 degree stove top" because there will be considerable variation depending upon where you measure. My IR non-contact thermometer is a Raytek ST80 with it's 50:1 distance/spot ratio can measure a spot size of less than 3/4" from a distance of 36" with an accuracy of +/- 1% up to 1400F. Using a tool like this that can measure such a small spot provides a real appreciation for how much the temperature varies from place to place on various stoves. And a Fleer thermal imaging camera can do the same thing in a much more graphical manner with only slightly reduced accuracy.

In my old Seefire woodstove it's amazing how the hottest spot will move around through the burn (and also depending on how the load is positioned). The hottest spot on the top I've ever seen was 940F (yes, that's too hot) but it generally runs around 720-780 with large areas considerably cooler.
 
Ok guys this is from about 8:30 AM that i dialed it down and now is 12:58 PM. over four hrs into the burn with fan in low. It was dead cold cause i came this AM around 7:45 AM. My sweet spot to run it hot when the house is cold like this, after to temp i dial it just under the mark in the sticker.
 

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took the pictures at 2:19 PM . no smoke and setting still the same. i am going to dial it down now cause the house is ok, back to temp. 6 hrs and still going strong, an easy overnight at that temp with that setting. lots of wood left.
 

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If your steel airwash plate melted (or even sagged) you can bet it was a lot hotter than 700F.

Obviously the part that melted was at more than 700 degrees. The stove top measured at it's highest temperature location was under 700 when this failure occurred.

Many internal stove parts are subjected to firebox temps of 1200 which is the minimum temperature required for secondary combustion. This is on purpose and stove parts subjected to such high temperatures should be designed to withstand them. Material type, thickness, attachement, etc. must be carefully selected.

Lots of folks have melted and cracked internal stove parts. The NC30 is not immune.
 
That etched glass is beautiful, I have never seen one of those stoves in person.
I love it to. Makes the stove more pleasing to look at in the summer
 
The highest mine has been was 834*F with a infrared thermo looking for its hottest spot. No problems with it on my Osburn 2400i.

Most of the time mine cruises around the 750*f range. The stove pumps out heat like nobody's business.
 
I think I saw 881F for a couple of frames at the 0:23 video mark. That is from a type K thermocouple on the top/center of the topsheet and with full blower running. (Green numbers on the temp controller = stove top temp, amber is 'fan on' set point.)



Burn tubes / under the baffle is considerably hotter. Have not had a thermocouple in there, but given bright orange heat...1300-1400F?

orangeburntubes_zps2cf3e5a6.jpg
 

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I think I saw 881F for a couple of frames at the 0:23 video mark. That is from a type K thermocouple on the top/center of the topsheet and with full blower running. (Green numbers on the temp controller = stove top temp, amber is 'fan on' set point.)



Burn tubes / under the baffle is considerably hotter. Have not had a thermocouple in there, but given bright orange heat...1300-1400F?

View attachment 193345



Cool setup man. Can you post some links to where you bough the electronics?
 
Thanks! The temp display is just a simple/generic/cheap thermocouple temp controller off ebay. I did get a bit tired of the eerie/techie green glow, so I replaced it with a nice analog pyrometer from an old crematory. Trouble is, I can't really read it from across the room. So project on the workbench is a nixie tube display for various temps...hoping for room temp, secondary tube temp, stove top temp and maybe flue or discharge air temp. Hoping to bring back some of the nostalgia, but in a display I can actually see.

The weather station is a older Accurite model. Indoor/outdoor temps, time, barometer, humidity. Gets the job done, but kind of a pain as it needs a reprogramming at every battery change. And running all those functions + remote channels + 'atomic clock' synchronization gobbles the 2 AA batteries pretty quick.
 
The weather station is a older Accurite model. Indoor/outdoor temps, time, barometer, humidity. Gets the job done, but kind of a pain as it needs a reprogramming at every battery change. And running all those functions + remote channels + 'atomic clock' synchronization gobbles the 2 AA batteries pretty quick.

If you have a wall outlet nearby you could just put some rechargeable AA's in there and solder a trickle charger to the battery terminals. Voila! A non-interruptible power supply!
 
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I was thinking of hooking up a raspberry pi computer. you can do a bunch of cool stuff with these little things.
 
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Temperature reached 200 degrees hotter than the temp gauge reading, so about 1000+ F. Duration for at least 2 - 3 hours. Vents were set to left, virtually closed. Thermometer above on fireplace mantle hit 106 F. Living room temperature thermostat on adjacent wall never went past 70 F a few feet away. Natural gas central air heat was also flowing and did not naturally turn off, with setting of 72 F. Outside temp 31 F with snow. 117 year old house. JØTUL stove, including glass did not melt, crack, explode or burn down the house.


However, I don't recommend anyone ever buy a house with one of these stoves even if never overfired or to use as any kind of a heat source. Great show room piece though even if never used. Not really the best investment for any home.

Cheers!
image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
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Temperature reached 200 degrees hotter than the temp gauge reading, so about 1000+ F.
How do you know that? IR thermometer? Was the stove glowing red?
Duration for at least 2 - 3 hours. Vents were set to left, virtually closed.
That's not good. The stove may well be shot, if it wasn't already. So did you just move into the house recently, and the stove was there? How long ago was that? Have you ever run a wood stove before?
I don't recommend anyone ever buy a house with one of these stoves even if never overfired or to use as any kind of a heat source. Great show room piece though even if never used. Not really the best investment for any home.
A lot of folks are using a wood stove to heat their home, instead of paying $500 a month to do that, so for them I would say it's a great investment that paid itself off in a short amount of time.
 
However, I don't recommend anyone ever buy a house with one of these stoves even if never overfired or to use as any kind of a heat source. Great show room piece though even if never used. Not really the best investment for any home.
Lots of people use stoves exactly like yours to heat their houses very successfully. I don't know what is going on with yours but those temps are way way high. Something needs to change or you are going to destroy that stove.
 
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I have to wonder if there is an air leak somewhere. Perhaps where the damper control is, its not closing all the way, or possibly warped due to excessive heat, increasing the allowance of air in the stove.
 
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Newb question. Does the hot stove equal a hot chimney? I have an older BK PTJ 304? that gets the metal chimney hot when my stove gets hot, over 500 stove temp,. 1000 deg with a probe thermometer about 16" up. Seems i only get big heat when its going a little too hot. This is in an insulated barn that is not heated every day. michigan.
 
Ugh I had a block off plate installed on tuesdays and was heating last night some really dry cordwood and I saw a very very slight glow on the stove top near the exhaust pipe and a registered temperature of 938*F. Scared the crap out of me. I threw some somewhat moist wood on top of it, and the stove quickly reversed temperature... Going to need to stick to E/W loading and be more careful.
 
Does the fact that I have cats in my stove make any difference in the temp cuz my cat thermometer will get as high as 1300-1400
Yes that is the temp of the cat not the stove top
 
I was about to go to bed just now and decided to check my insert one last time. This is the first time I've hit 700. With the warmer outside temps I've had to leave the air open a hair more than normal. It's all the way closed now. I guess I'll stay up a little longer until I can turn the blower down.