I can't use my fireplace until someone can help me solve this mystery!

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I just looked at your avatar and the cathedral ceiling could be contributing to a stack effect.
 
So tonight I made a fire and once again an hour and 20 min in I started to smell smoke so I opened the nearest window an inch and the smell went away in the room. As fire was winding down I started to smell it again so I closed fireplace doors and overall it was a huge improvement. With the window open the room still stayed warm which I was surprised. Anyone have an idea of what would cause this and why cracking window fixed it? How should I move forward?

Note the furnace did not run!
try to get yourself familiar with negative draft , it’s pretty simple in theory all the smoke and heat which flows up chimney needs to be replaced with the same volume at the same velocity with fresh air from outside of your house ,slow or reduce the replacement air smoke up chimney gets slowed , boiler or another ventilation system kicks on now it begins to pull smoke from fireplace reversing flow
 
Have you considered a stove?

I am considering a lopi wood insert. I got quoted $6,300 for the medium sized flush unit and $5,800 for small hybrid fyre unit installed with insulated liner and adapters etc. I will go this route if need be but I would like to use what I got and save money if possible. BUT if I get the insert would I have same drafting issues with insert if put in same location?
 
Is there something that can be done to fix this or am I just SOL?

A higher chimney and no air leaks above the stove in the house envelope. Are there any leaky windows or recessed lights etc above the stove in the house?
 
Your chimney looks like it barely clears the ridge to me. You may be able to add a section of pipe onto it.
 
I am considering a lopi wood insert. I got quoted $6,300 for the medium sized flush unit and $5,800 for small hybrid fyre unit installed with insulated liner and adapters etc. I will go this route if need be but I would like to use what I got and save money if possible. BUT if I get the insert would I have same drafting issues with insert if put in same location?

Yes, negative pressure will be an issue either way. My open fireplace had draft issues - I got them mostly under control with a grate wall of fire and a smoke guard. When I had my flush wood plus installed, the problem was even worse, enough to set off my carbon monoxide alarm at the end of the burn when the draft reversed with hot coals in the insert. I finally fixed mine by sealing up an air leak to my attic that was making my stack effect worse and cracking a window while I ran the insert. You can't provide outside air directly to the Lopi flush wood inserts, so if you can't fix the strong negative pressure in the location where the fireplace is, you may want to consider an insert that will allow an outside air kit instead.
 
I am considering a lopi wood insert. I got quoted $6,300 for the medium sized flush unit and $5,800 for small hybrid fyre unit installed with insulated liner and adapters etc.
How are you going to pass the permit inspections with the town and insurance co if you go this route, from my understanding your zero clearance unit is not rated to have any solid wood burning devices installed with in, and no modifications to the unit itself either (cutting, blocking, removing of air vents, stove refractory ect..)
I will go this route if need be but I would like to use what I got and save money if possible.
Your not saving any money burning a fireplace, your actually making the house colder because your sending warmed room air up and out of the chimney. The small amount of heat you feel is radiant and localized to the room the fireplace is in.
BUT if I get the insert would I have same drafting issues with insert if put in same location?
Maybe / maybe not, the insert will need a oak (outside air kit) again the zero clearance unit would need to be modified for this (big no no) a dedicated insulated liner would need to be installed within the air cooled chimney since the air cooled unit isn't rated at 2100deg f which the stove requires, but the liner is sized for the stove at 6" so you may get better draft by increasing velocity, again hypothetical because the installed would need to make sure they can send an insulated liner down the existing chimney, or (which is unlikely) the existing chimney is already a class a unit.
 
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Is there something that can be done to fix this or am I just SOL?
Start by checking the fresh air intake to see if it is open.
 
I am considering a lopi wood insert. I got quoted $6,300 for the medium sized flush unit and $5,800 for small hybrid fyre unit installed with insulated liner and adapters etc. I will go this route if need be but I would like to use what I got and save money if possible. BUT if I get the insert would I have same drafting issues with insert if put in same location?
What make and model fireplace is this unit?
 
Yes, negative pressure will be an issue either way. My open fireplace had draft issues - I got them mostly under control with a grate wall of fire and a smoke guard. When I had my flush wood plus installed, the problem was even worse, enough to set off my carbon monoxide alarm at the end of the burn when the draft reversed with hot coals in the insert. I finally fixed mine by sealing up an air leak to my attic that was making my stack effect worse and cracking a window while I ran the insert. You can't provide outside air directly to the Lopi flush wood inserts, so if you can't fix the strong negative pressure in the location where the fireplace is, you may want to consider an insert that will allow an outside air kit instead.

Thank you for your response. That is my biggest fear spending all that money on insert and have the same draft issue or even worse. How did you find a leak in your attic? I dont understand how this negative pressure or backdraft is only starting 1.5-2 hours after start up. The open window did seem to to help alot and I understand its replacing lost air but of there is an air leak someplace else wouldn't that be like the open window and be adding air to the room? This is really starting to drive me crazy and when I call chimney sweeps to help they dont seem that interested in helping me resolve this they just give me theories of what it could be with no solution.
 
Start by checking the fresh air intake to see if it is open.

Yes I have a duct cleaning coming monday to clean that out for me. Hopefully that is the problem and easy cheap fix. I did see some yellow jackets in my fireplace last spring so maybe a nest was made in the vent blocking fresh air from getting in.
 
How are you going to pass the permit inspections with the town and insurance co if you go this route, from my understanding your zero clearance unit is not rated to have any solid wood burning devices installed with in, and no modifications to the unit itself either (cutting, blocking, removing of air vents, stove refractory ect..)

Your not saving any money burning a fireplace, your actually making the house colder because your sending warmed room air up and out of the chimney. The small amount of heat you feel is radiant and localized to the room the fireplace is in.

Maybe / maybe not, the insert will need a oak (outside air kit) again the zero clearance unit would need to be modified for this (big no no) a dedicated insulated liner would need to be installed within the air cooled chimney since the air cooled unit isn't rated at 2100deg f which the stove requires, but the liner is sized for the stove at 6" so you may get better draft by increasing velocity, again hypothetical because the installed would need to make sure they can send an insulated liner down the existing chimney, or (which is unlikely) the existing chimney is already a class a unit.


Kenny I was told by Lopi and my local lopi dealer that their insert can safely be installed in my zero clearance fireplace as well as a few other models and brands. I have had other places tell me it's not safe and should not be done which makes me hesitant but I would assume lopi did testing and designed them to be safe if that's what they advertise?
 
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I would add a 3' section to the chimney and see if things improve. If it works you could extend the chase for aesthetics.
 
Without a manual there is no way to know if an insert is permitted

As I mentioned earlier a local lopi dealer came here to inspect and give an estimate and he said it is ok for the lopi unit and I contacted lopi directly and sent them the info and they confirmed it to be safe so I feel comfortable with it. I was also told the Regency unit would work as well. Picture is attached below.
 

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As I mentioned earlier a local lopi dealer came here to inspect and give an estimate and he said it is ok for the lopi unit and I contacted lopi directly and sent them the info and they confirmed it to be safe so I feel comfortable with it. I was also told the Regency unit would work as well. Picture is attached below.
Did they not bother to even read the I'd tag. It clearly says no inserts.