Jotul Carrabassett 55v2

[71montess]

Been using the stove during this fall and am concerned I can't load stove full because it gets to high temps in stovetop thermo and flue thermo.
The main are control is open to start then closed down as fire is established. Too much fuel brings too much heat. I've even blocked 75%of secondary air inlet at bottom of stove. 22-23' total height. 13' of it in cathedral with double wall black pipe. Not sure of draft # but I see the pan on bottom of stove, the secondary air pan, isn't sealed with gasket material against stove. Possibly letting additional air in.
Should I check draft #s before anything else ?

 

[EbS-P]

What temperatures are you reading and what type/brand of thermometers do you have

 

[71montess]

What temperatures are you reading and what type/brand of thermometers do you have

I'm out now but in red zone maybe 700-800. Popular brand I think.

 

[begreen]

Try loading larger, thicker splits, packing them tightly, and turning down the air sooner.

 

[Todd]

I have the F45 on a 22’ straight up chimney and got a little more control by blocking the unregulated primary boost air that’s located in the lower front bottom of the fire box. Not sure if the F55 has those same boost air holes?

 

[71montess]

Try loading larger, thicker splits, packing them tightly, and turning down the air sooner.

I'll try that, most mine have been smaller.

I have the F45 on a 22’ straight up chimney and got a little more control by blocking the unregulated primary boost air that’s located in the lower front bottom of the fire box. Not sure if the F55 has those same boost air holes?

Yes, I've blocked about 75% of it. Was afraid of blocking all of it because it's made for a reason, can't imagine it would be right to block off completely. This stove has a lot of leakby in it's shutter control. Other stoves I've used in past had a more positive , tight feeling on air control.

 

[begreen]

I'll try that, most mine have been smaller.

Yes, I've blocked about 75% of it. Was afraid of blocking all of it because it's made for a reason, can't imagine it would be right to block off completely.

It's ok to block the boost air port off 100%. This is startup air and a stove with good draft may not need it. Plus, there is the alternative to leave the door ajar for startup air instead. Just be sure that it is the boost air that is being blocked.

 

[71montess]

It's ok to block the boost air port off 100%. This is startup air and a stove with good draft may not need it. Plus, there is the alternative to leave the door ajar for startup air instead. Just be sure that it is the boost air that is being blocked.

Is the boost air the ducting that feeds the upper turbulator. Not the main air lever on the front of stove ?

 

[begreen]

Is the boost air the ducting that feeds the upper turbulator. Not the main air lever on the front of stove ?

I don't know of any separate air feed to the turbulator fins. The boost feeds air to the fire down low and front.

 

[EbS-P]

Is the boost air the ducting that feeds the upper turbulator. Not the main air lever on the front of stove ?

The F55 doesn’t have an ashpan like the F45. The boost air for the 45 was direct into the ashpan (I believe).
Can anyone confirm the their actual boost air on the F55?

It appears that the secondary and primary air enter via different openings. The best way is a damper. Once you start changing the primary/secondary air ratio it gets more complicated.

 

[begreen]

The boost air for the 45 was direct into the ashpan (I believe).

I thought it was at the doghouse but don't have the stove in front of me. Todd does.

 

[Todd]

The F55 could be different but the F45 secondary air hole is located in the back of the stove and feeds all the secondary air in the baffle including the holes in front of the turbulator fins.

The unregulated boost air go directly into the front fire box doghouse, no ash pan. There are two holes just behind the primary air slide and just in front of the bottom heat shield.

 

[Todd]

Here’s a pic of the F45 boost air holes.

 

[71montess]

 

[71montess]

This is the 55v2, the lever is the main air control with two openings on either side it controls. The air wash / turbulator air comes in the 1”x4” slot in the sheet metal air duct. I’ve closed off this bigger air source by 75% but stove still gets going to strong. I just ordered a damper online this am. Will let you guys know how controllable a big fire gets when installed. Thanks for ideas.

 

[Woodspliter]

How did the damper work out? I just installed a new f55 and I have the same issue.
I need to purchase a damper as well.

 

[71montess]

How did the damper work out? I just installed a new f55 and I have the same issue.
I need to purchase a damper as well.

It just arrived last week, haven’t put it in. But one other thing I did was to put retort cement around the edges of the pan on bottom of stove. It has no gasket and was a big unregulated air leak. Learning to control the heat intensity is a work in progress. I’ll install the damper and report back Soon.

 

[71montess]

Those 6” stove top double wall dampers don’t fit a jotul Carrabasett. I’ve had the pipe on the stove outlet and it fits fine though. i bought one but it’s going back. I have since figured out when to close off the primary air and to use small loads for lower heat output. (You need to get a good flame going before cutting back on primary air though )That plus using the retort cement to fill gaps in the secondary air plumbing under the stove along with blocking 75% of secondary air intake seems to be working. If I do need a damper on stove pipe I’ll have to drill and add one myself. But so far, I thing I’ve got it right.

 

[Woodspliter]

You'll have to install further up on the pipe. Mine will be coming in shortly I'm going to install on the horizontal section in between the the elbow and the wall thimble. I can do full loads from a cold start no problem but from a hot coal bed it can take off on me.

 

[71montess]

You'll have to install further up on the pipe. Mine will be coming in shortly I'm going to install on the horizontal section in between the the elbow and the wall thimble. I can do full loads from a cold start no problem but from a hot coal bed it can take off on me.

I tried to install it at first joint above stove when it didn’t fit on stove. It wasn’t made to fit between pipe sections and that was a no go also. With a hot coal bed I just get it flaming and immediately turn it down. But can’t load it to the gills or it will take off.

 

[Woodspliter]

Are you using the same brand of pipe?

 

[71montess]

Are you using the same brand of pipe?

Yes, Duravent I bought the appliance connector damper but it doesn't sit right on the jotul but straight pipe fits fine so I don't need an appliance connector. Got it for the damper. So now ill just instal a damper through double wall the old fashioned way.

 

[Woodspliter]

Hmm, that's odd. I'm running icc pipe and needed the appliance adapter. To my knowledge it's just a damper inside a 5" piece of pipe witch is what I have in-between the elbow and the thimble

 

[71montess]

Hmm, that's odd. I'm running icc pipe and needed the appliance adapter. To my knowledge it's just a damper inside a 5" piece of pipe witch is what I have in-between the elbow and the thimble

I’d call the supplier and ask if it can be installed like that.

 

[Woodspliter]

I can tell from these images online