Jotul F500 Firebrick Airleak?

[Pannoner3]

Hey Everyone,

Anyone ever experience fire pouring down from the top of their firebricks? I was burning yesterday and there was a stream of fire coming down the the face of the left-most fire brick, and I don't recall this happening during prior burning seasons. Seemed like an air leak, as I had the air control completely closed and it seemed like the fire was being fed air from that point of the firebox. I'll try to get a pic the next time it happens, but curious if anyone else has ever experienced this.

I have a model year 2000 F500 that I purchased second hand in 2021. Historically I've had really poor control of fires using the front air control lever. Typically I need to have the air closed completely, and even then I'm not getting great burn times - e.g. I'll have a healthy bed of coals, load the stove and cut the air completely at 9pm and at 4am I'll have no coals left. I have changed gaskets on the side door, front door, ash door, top lid and top lid oval insert. Haven't replaced firebricks. I've been thinking I may need to break the stove down and rebuild it completely just given the age of it.

Appreciate any insight here. I have some incense arriving tomorrow so I can do some smoke testing too for air leaks.

Drew

 

[EbS-P]

Hey Everyone,

Anyone ever experience fire pouring down from the top of their firebricks? I was burning yesterday and there was a stream of fire coming down the the face of the left-most fire brick, and I don't recall this happening during prior burning seasons. Seemed like an air leak, as I had the air control completely closed and it seemed like the fire was being fed air from that point of the firebox. I'll try to get a pic the next time it happens, but curious if anyone else has ever experienced this.

I have a model year 2000 F500 that I purchased second hand in 2021. Historically I've had really poor control of fires using the front air control lever. Typically I need to have the air closed completely, and even then I'm not getting great burn times - e.g. I'll have a healthy bed of coals, load the stove and cut the air completely at 9pm and at 4am I'll have no coals left. I have changed gaskets on the side door, front door, ash door, top lid and top lid oval insert. Haven't replaced firebricks. I've been thinking I may need to break the stove down and rebuild it completely just given the age of it.

Appreciate any insight here. I have some incense arriving tomorrow so I can do some smoke testing too for air leaks.

Drew

the secondary air manifolds that feed the burn tubes run above the fire bricks. I would inspect the burn tubes and where the insert into the manifold. If all looks ok then I would pull the side bricks and inspect the manifold.

 

[Pannoner3]

Thanks. Will do that today or tomorrow. Trying to get it sorted out before the real cold arrives.

 

[Todd]

Could be a gasket failure on the top plate or the top isn’t seated properly

 

[Pannoner3]

Removed the top plate and fire bricks tonight and I didn’t see anything obvious. Thought everything looked pretty good for a 25 year old stove. The only thing I did notice was a crack in what looks like some cement behind where the firebricks sit? Attaching some pictures here for reference.

 

[Pannoner3]

Incense test didn't reveal any air leaks, at least not that I could tell. Kinda stumped.

 

[Burnin Since 1991]

Incense test didn't reveal any air leaks, at least not that I could tell. Kinda stumped.

how tall is your chimney?

I have an old all steel stove that wouldn't burn through the night, no matter what I did. I added a damper to the stove pipe and it made a huge difference. Longer burns and much more control. My chimney all told was only about 17 feet tall, but it worked for me. Not saying it will help the problem you experienced. YMMV.

 

[Pannoner3]

Approximately 26' tall. Typical open fireplace masonry chimney that I had lined with a SS flue. I do always seem to have a strong draft and have considered an in line dampener, but the current set up would make that a challenge. I basically have the back of the stove set into the fireplace.

 

[EbS-P]

Approximately 26' tall. Typical open fireplace masonry chimney that I had lined with a SS flue. I do always seem to have a strong draft and have considered an in line dampener, but the current set up would make that a challenge. I basically have the back of the stove set into the fireplace.

It can be done. It’s just simple. But it wouldn’t explain the change in behavior. After 20 years it could just need a rebuild. These are not maintenance free like a steel stove.

 

[Pannoner3]

It can be done. It’s just simple. But it wouldn’t explain the change in behavior. After 20 years it could just need a rebuild. These are not maintenance free like a steel stove.

Thanks. I have been thinking it probably needs a rebuild too. That'll be for the spring I guess! Or is it time to consider buying new?

 

[EbS-P]

Thanks. I have been thinking it probably needs a rebuild too. That'll be for the spring I guess! Or is it time to consider buying new?

I don’t know what it would cost to rebuild say $200 in parts and one days labor for a professional that’s done it. Call it $1k and that may be high. you get another 20 years out of a great stove. You can’t buy anything that nice for $1000.

How high is your lintel? You may not have many options especially if you have short legs.

 

[Pannoner3]

I do have short legs, and even with them the stove barely sneaks under the lintel and I have the smoke outlet in the horizontal position. I'd probably tackle the rebuild myself, but would be hesitant about applying the right amount of cement in the right locations. Am I overthinking it?

Including a wider angle view of the full set up.

 

[EbS-P]

There might be good step by step instructions but it don’t recall seeing them. As an easy first stab would try replacing all the gaskets three doors, glass and top. That’s an afternoon. If that doesn’t calm things down then I might be time to think about a rebuild.

 

[Todd]

Try burning with a full ash pan. I’m not sure on the older models but the new ones have unrestricted air holes in the ash pan housing. Some people have blocked them with magnets as well.

 

[Pannoner3]

Changed the side door gasket today. Definitely tighter fit, but still the same behavior. Seems there's air being introduced at the back left of the firebox (near the side door) and from below even when the air control is completely closed.

One thing I'll say, the manual that came with the stove in 2000 says the ash houses Ng gasket is 3/16", but the newer models call for 1/4". If the ash housing gasket is original, should I also change that and increase the size to 1/4"?

 

[Pannoner3]

This is a pic of the stove with the air control completely closed. Fire being fed from the left hand side.

 

[Burnin Since 1991]

View attachment 342850This is a pic of the stove with the air control completely closed. Fire being fed from the left hand side.

As of right now, when that last pic was taken, which is after the side door gasket has been replaced, have you done anything with the ash pan?

Also re-check your front door gasket on the lower corner near where you think the leak could be and make sure it isn't letting air in. The gasket isn't compromised and it passes the dollar bill test.

Since you just replaced the other gasket, dollar bill test it as well.

Process of elimination