Log marking

[Sailrmike]

I've used different methods for marking up logs before cutting into consistent lengths, but those methods proved to be time consuming and not very accurate. Until now:

ACC-U-MARK FIREWOOD MARKING TOOLS

Pro-quality firewood marking tools for professionals and DIY firewood producers. Instant on/off, no tools, simple and accurate. Made in Montana.

acc-u-mark.com

It came today, and I was able to use it a little. It's extremely well crafted, light weight, simple and easy to use. Not only do I get the correct lenth of wood, but it also helps me to start a square cut as well. I highly recommend this tool

 

[Simonkenton]

I just make a 16 inch mark on the chain saw bar. Scratch it down with a file.
But, that does look like a nice tool

 

[andym]

I love the idea, but not sure how much I would use it. Most of my bucking happens in the woods. I drop the tree, buck it and load it.

 

[Nealm66]

I wouldn’t want to put my wood stacks next to yours

 

[Gearhead660]

That looks like a sweet tool. I am currently using the zip tie method. Gets cuts to within an inch, always attached to saw.

 

[neverbilly]

That looks like a sweet tool. I am currently using the zip tie method. Gets cuts to within an inch, always attached to saw.

What is zip tie method?

 

[D8Chumley]

I turn the saw 90* to the log and roughly to the back bar nut on a 20” bar gives me about 22” I can fit 23ish in the stove. I’m also interested to hear what the zip tie method is

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

I had the same question, so I searched the site for zip tie. It's a good idea!

https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/1588111953109-png.259783/

 

[Lakeside]

Acc-U-Mark --- looks like a good one to copy / home project. This will help process my log load of black locust. I have been sitting on this pile for about two years -- no worries as it is Black Locust. Thanks OP for posting.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

I turn my saw.. the back of the handle to the end of the log and one of the rivets on the bar is the 18in mark. I cut all mine to 18in.. most are exactly 18.. but some can go .5in either way.. Its super fast and accurate. When I'm in the woods cutting log lenth. I drop the tree and get a tape measure and mark out paint and mark the log out to 9ft and cut it to length and hall it out. Ill mark up the entire tree.. takes 3 minutes and im on my way to cutting to length..

 

[edward dillon]

Acc-U-Mark --- looks like a good one to copy / home project. This will help process my log load of black locust. I have been sitting on this pile for about two years -- no worries as it is Black Locust. Thanks OP for posting.

2 year old black locust that is going to be tuff cutting and splitting. I was alway told to get it cut and split as fast as possible.

 

[Lakeside]

2 year old black locust that is going to be tuff cutting

You are right the older dried out BL will eat up my chain. I plan on breaking out my sharping file set daily. As for spitting my electric super-splitter should be fine. Yes --- is I was not so busy with my dog I would have split it earlier, but I am not worried about rot after all it is BL.

 

[awicherr]

I thought about getting a mingo marker. Has anyone uses one? This lools like a good alternative to it though my interest is peaked

 

[Highbeam]

I thought about getting a mingo marker. Has anyone uses one? This lools like a good alternative to it though my interest is peaked

I always use the mingo. Works great. So easy, fast, consistent. No jacking around with turning the saw or making little saw marks revenge the engine.

I used to hold a 16” stick in my trigger hand to measure each round.

 

[sweedish]

I use the bar of my saw

 

[SpaceBus]

I take out a stick that is pre-measured to my firewood length and mark all the logs with a small hand saw. @Ashful mentioned the technique in a similar thread a year or so ago. Since I tend to pile my logs all parallel in a more or less organized stack I can mark just a few logs and cut down through three or four at a time.

 

[SpaceBus]

Sometimes my wife will mark the logs for me and then it's even faster.

 

[Nealm66]

I use two hand lengths and a couple inches on a fairly straight broken stick. If I’m firewooding a tree on the way down on a tree removal, all bets are off, I cheat and make em longer near the top to help get me done quicker, I make em shorter when they’re heavy to be able to push em off without blowing a vein

 

[MTASH]

Sometimes my wife will mark the logs for me and then it's even faster.

This X2. My wife usually does the marking with a 16" measuring stick and a lumber crayon. If I am by myself, or is she is busy loading, I will either pre-mark using the same method or use the sharpie mark on my bar depending on the situation.

 

[Simonkenton]

I have the 16 inch mark scratched onto my bar. I just hold the start of the bar at the end of the log, and look at where the 16 inch mark is, I can keep all my cuts between 15 1/2 and 16 1/2 inches no problem.
However I recently got a haul off of craigslist. The big white oak had already been cut into 10 and 12 foot lengths. Premium white oak with no rot.
I didn't want to waste a single cubic centimeter of this fine wood. I got out the calculator and figured I needed 15 1/2 inches per stick.
I always carry a tape measure with me I am a carpenter. I just marked the trunk every 15 1/2 inches with an orange lumber crayon.
Lumber crayons are great for marking firewood, they last a long long time.

 

[kansasnate]

I always use the mingo. Works great. So easy, fast, consistent. No jacking around with turning the saw or making little saw marks revenge the engine.

I used to hold a 16” stick in my trigger hand to measure each round.

I have the mingo too. The big plus is speed. You can mark as fast as you can run!

 

[RandyBoBandy]

I cut 16” for my barn stove and 18” for the house stove. So I just take a sharpie and mark my bar at these two lengths. Works perfectly.

 

[BigJ273]

Way too expensive

 

[MoDoug]

My stove takes 22" logs, I cut mostly at 20 or 19" I use a sharpie and marked the lengths on my chain saw, but this gets old after a while. There's a hole built into the chain bar, a few inches from the tip, and I use that hole to attach a piece of 19" PVC to the bar. I hammered a nut into one end, and using a bolt that fits through the bar hole, I attach it to the bar. I have a few marks on it for different lengths. So far this is a prototype, I've used it once, and the bolt wants to vibrate loose, so now I'm going to try it with a lock washer. It's reasonably quick to put on and take off.

I like the idea of the magnet, but it just seems to me like it would be prone to vibrate around and maybe hit the chain while it's running.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

I’m not keen on the idea of something hanging off the side of my saw. I often cut up to finish a cut after I’ve rolled a log. This puts the tip in the wood. I’m also in big rounds at times that eats the whole bar up so can’t have anything hanging off the bar. And really a +\- of an inch is no big deal. After years of cutting I can pretty much hit the 16-18 mark just by site. I still measure with my sharpie marks now and again to keep my eyes calibrated.