New member with a new used woodstove questions

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Tanner

New Member
Dec 5, 2010
4
N.E. Iowa
Hi all. I've found this form very informative and helpful and know I will enjoy researching and gleaning all the information from the people here.
I live in Iowa on a small acreage with a 2300 sq ft house that is a passive solar hybrid farmhouse. The back half of our lot is all native parrie grass and the front is lawn and 80 plus trees. My family has a plot of timber near a local river and I'm on to a good start of wood for my future stove. I'm a Mfg. Engineer for a mid sized Ag manufacturer. (not Deere although they are 15 miles from me) so I have access to tools to repair my stove.

I just bought a Jotul Firelight Model #12 Mfg. June of 1993 for $250.00. It sat out all summer on the previous onwers deck and appears that he had a couple of garbage fires in it. Everything seems to function other than it has a lot of rust scale in it from sitting.

I need some guidance from you all here. I searched posts about my firelight and would like some more info.

1. Does this stove need a catalyst in it? (I don't see anything that makes me think I need to buy one for it. The metal tag on the back that mentions it, but it's vague so I'm unsure)

2. I have a lot of rust and scale to clean up inside I'm still searching for a "wood stove tune up" post. (Any pointers)

3. I have a small crack on the right side. Can i get this fixed? Do i need to worry about it?

4. Is there any tell tale signs of major abuse from the photos I posted. Warping, etc, etc?

5. Can i buy gaskets and repair stuff from a Menards or should go though dealers buying Jotul branded stuff.

6. I'm attaching pictures of the issues. Please tell me what you think. You donr need to sugar coat it if you think this stove is a dud.

Thanks for all you help
 

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That is a nice stove Tanner, what a shame the fool left it out in the weather. Most of the rust will wirebrush off. Then I would fire it up with a few smaller break in fires. We have a few owners of this stove here, they can help you out for sure. In the meantime, I'll try to answer some of the questions.

Tanner said:
I just bought a Jotul Firelight Model #12 Mfg. June of 1993 for $250.00. It sat out all summer on the previous onwers deck and appears that he had a couple of garbage fires in it. Everything seems to function other than it has a lot of rust scale in it from sitting.

I need some guidance from you all here. I searched posts about my firelight and would like some more info.

1. Does this stove need a catalyst in it? (I don't see anything that makes me think I need to buy one for it. The metal tag on the back that mentions it, but it's vague so I'm unsure) - It should have one. Odds are that it might need replacing, but gently clean and inspect first. If the honeycomb is in good condition then I'd try it. Pages 15-17 of the manual cover this.

2. I have a lot of rust and scale to clean up inside I'm still searching for a "wood stove tune up" post. (Any pointers)
There is this wiki which may be helpful. It's a bit of a lecture, but has some good points: https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/Used_Stove_buying_Primer/

3. I have a small crack on the right side. Can i get this fixed? Do i need to worry about it?
That will need to be watched. It's going to be hard to repair without a scar on the white cast iron. Normal recommendation is to drill a small 3/32" hole at the end of the crack to stop it from spreading.

4. Is there any tell tale signs of major abuse from the photos I posted. Warping, etc, etc?
Eyeball the interior once it's cleaned up. Look for warping or cracks on the interior plates, bottom grate and base.

5. Can i buy gaskets and repair stuff from a Menards or should go though dealers buying Jotul branded stuff.
Yes, but there are variations in density and style, so it would be helpful to get the manual first. Gasket replacement is covered on page 18. It's posted here:
http://bit.ly/gxsbxI

6. I'm attaching pictures of the issues. Please tell me what you think. You donr need to sugar coat it if you think this stove is a dud.
It looks in very nice condition other than the rust from the yahoo leaving it outside. The crack is the most obvious flaw so far. If that is the worst of it, give the stove a little love and enjoy. It's a serious heater.

Thanks for all you help
 
Hi Tanner,

Welcome. It's nice to meet you, and hear a bit of your story. There's a great bunch of folks here, and I think you'll fit right in.

Thanks for the photos. Love them photos. That's a pretty stove, and I'm hoping both it and you got lucky! There are plenty of happy Jotul owners here to help you out, and you're already in good hands. Good luck!
 
Tanner, I think the Jotuls are among the prettiest stoves out there (I know, "pretty" is such a girl thing), but they also deliver the goods with respect to heating. Before the good man laid eyes on the Woodstock Fireview, the stove you scored for $250 is basically what I wanted for the living area of our home.

I don't have anything substanitive to add from a technical standpoint, but just wanted to chime in and mention that it really irritates me that people would put something so handsome and functional on the back deck, subjecting it to the elements to burn garbage! I work with machinery and there is something so very wrong about not treating a tool with care and respect. But, then again, I have a fleet of sewing machines, many rescued from the oblivion of neglect and functioning reliably and productively in my workroom!

Nice score.

(how would one repair the crack and would there be a way to patch in the missing enamel? I know you can do it on sinks and bathtubs, but would the high temperature of a wood stove make such a "touch up" impossible?)
 
Could someone point me to fixing cracks? I have a knock off Jotul 118 with some hair line cracks in the top cover. I would like to use the stove as an emergency heat/cooking source so nothing prolonged but I want it to work. I am pretty new to wood stoves, I have a Harman p38 pellet stove but am not sure what I can get away with as far as cracks in a back up wood stove. Thanks.
 
refactory cement found at menards or any big box store is great for fixing cracks from the inside
 
aroryborealis said:
Could someone point me to fixing cracks? I have a knock off Jotul 118 with some hair line cracks in the top cover. I would like to use the stove as an emergency heat/cooking source so nothing prolonged but I want it to work. I am pretty new to wood stoves, I have a Harman p38 pellet stove but am not sure what I can get away with as far as cracks in a back up wood stove. Thanks.

The Taiwanese knockoffs do not have the quality castings of a Jotul. You need to watch these cracks carefully. Try the same method, drill a small hole at the end of the crack to try and stove its travel. But if you find this isn't working, consider this stove scrap or a planter.
 
Its a shame because the guy I got it from was using the top baffle on the floor of the stove holding the wood... I doubt it would have cracked had he had the baffle in the correct place. Does anyone know of a good thread in here discussing cracks, whats OK and what isnt etc. Thanks again.
 
Are replacement parts a reasonable option for this sort of thing?
 
I had a Jotul 12 for about six years. Burn time is easily 10-12 hours when filled. Easy to load stove from top, hardly used the front door (ash would fall out when opened). It definitely will put out the heat running with the catalytic combustor. I heated a 2500 sq ft home with it. I used about six cords per winter thru the stove. I also had a small crack at the same area you do. I did run it without the combustor, not as much heat output though.
To spot problem areas on the stove look inside for any "pinkish colored cast iron" - these are areas that have been over heated. Check to ensure they are not hair line cracked (wet sponge wiped across) or spalding (pieces / chips peeling off).
I got rid of the stove for two problems with it:
It is very easy to over heat the stove with the catalytic combustor. I learned the hard way - had to repace the full back plate, back baffle that protects the combustor, catalytic combustor and the k-wool block that hold in the combustor - very expensive. I recommend run with out the combustor. keep a magnet thermometer on top - do not let get above 600 degrees very long.
The second problem it is very easy to break the front glass- a log retainer leg inside the stove gave way about an hour into a burn and the logs rolled into glass breaking it. I got the glass fixed at an auto glass place for about half the price the dealer wanted. I fixed the leg retainer problem by using a piece of heavy duty metal pipe - just stick one end of the pipe over the remaing log retainer stubs and let the other rest against inside wall (above the glass). To make sure the pipes are snug, flatten the pipe end that rest on the retainer leg.
 
All stoves will make heat, a Cat stove will produce more heat more efficiently with the cat operational than without. I recommend replacing the cat. Your local hearth shop can tell you what size gasket you need as well as provide it. It was mentioned that the glass breaks very easily, all glass will break if something is forced against it, if this happens, you need to order replacement stove glass, not something from a auto glass place, the stove glass is actually ceramic and will withstand much more heat. Great find, I don't thing you will be sorry for pulling the trigger on that one!
 
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