Cant find a model of copper Tee's so just used steel, serves the purpose for what i need this dwg for.
And the pump is not the Caleffi Thermobloc 281 but it will do.
And the pump is not the Caleffi Thermobloc 281 but it will do.
Ya, i think some these calculations have lots of tolerance in the real world.Thanks Hyfire.
Good info but I will have to take my chances now, all 1" components purchased. Also, the current system has plenty of 1" copper pipe and the circulator between the two existing boilers have been running straight time during the cold season for 18 years and pipe is still holding. And im pretty sure the existing pipe is not type K.
I tend to taker some of the literature with a grain of salt but I still appreciate all the info, and i read every article I can, knowledge is power!!, especially when your learning. Thanks
Maple you make a good point, ill make that change back. I actually had it that way first.Would you want to switch your union & valve locations? First thing I screwed into my boiler and tank fittings were valves. Well, I guess the second thing, after a nipple. Then you can isolate boiler and tank water if you have to disassemble/service the piping related stuff. I had to do that once to unstick a circulator.
Each boiler will have its own PRV, for the piping ive shown above you will see a Tee just below the gauge, thats where the PRV will go. Just havent got that far yet.Where is the pressure relief valve located on this unit or do you have to pipe one in yourself?
Yes thats the Low water sensor.Looks amazing!, but I don't think your allowed to have a shut off before the pressure relief valve, if someone shut it off and forgot about it that could be a big problem, kinda results like space shuttle challenger rocket booster gaskets in cold weather. Sorry my mistake that is a sensor, silly me!
According to the Froling folks series connected tanks act more like one big tank than two tanks connected in parallel. It was advised that this is the preferred connection.Your storage tanks your plumbing them in series why not parallel? Whats the pro and cons of each method?
Why do you think it's needed?Whats your opinion about adding a swing check valve between tanks, or is it not needed?
Unless im misunderstanding, if i add a swing check between the two tanks there will be no flow when heating zones pull water from storage, as in this scenario the flow through the tanks and associated piping is in the opposite direction then when charging tanks from wood boiler.Whats your opinion about adding a swing check valve between tanks, or is it not needed?
Unless im misunderstanding, if i add a swing check between the two tanks there will be no flow when heating zones pull water from storage, as in this scenario the flow through the tanks and associated piping is in the opposite direction then when charging tanks from wood boiler.
Scrap the check valve idea, bad idea.Sounds right.
No.....I wish. I wont be starting this until late spring, just cant go without heat right now.Do you think it will be ready to fire within a few weeks?
I think it's code to not be able to valve off the pressure relief. I'd have boiler, pressure relief then valve for sure. Also I'd put the low water cut off on its side to the left or right. Right now it's going to trap air possibly cutting off the system when it shouldn't.Each boiler will have its own PRV, for the piping ive shown above you will see a Tee just below the gauge, thats where the PRV will go. Just havent got that far yet.
Don’t use dielectric unions, they’re bad. Black pipe, copper, brass, all play fine together on a boiler system. Dielectric unions are only preferred by engineers.
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