re visiting stove ownership

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ddown

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I've had a few Woodstoves about 10 years ago problem was over drafting have to use 40' chimney even with Damper would overdraft on cold days. Any improvements or options to solve this in last few years. I tried Lopi Leyden, englander nc-30, and Super 27 which worked the best. pulled everything out but things have me reconsidering wood heat. I have 2 cord cut and stacked.
 
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I've had a few Woodstoves about 10 years ago problem was over drafting have to use 40' chimney even with Damper would overdraft on cold days. Any improvements or options to solve this in last few years. I tried Lopi Leyden, englander nc-30, and Super 27 which worked the best. pulled everything out but things have me reconsidering wood head. I have 2 cord cut and stacked.
Add another damper or even 2 more
 
I can understand that. Overdrafting was easier to solve with older stoves that breathed easier because all you had to do was place an obstruction in the flue like a damper or chimney cap. Now with tighter stoves the flow is reduced, so the damper is less effective even when fully closed, and the static vacuum from the chimney is constantly there. This issue is not usually discussed in the stove literature other than maybe "draft should be 0.06 - 0.08" WC", and no suggestions on what to do if it is out of the recommended range.

You can definitely try adding another damper as bholler suggested or use some pipe reducers to restrict the chimney even more. You will have to find out what is needed to get your draft in spec for the particular installation.

I'm not necessarily advocating this, but you can also use a barometric draft regulator to reduce chimney draft. It is very effective but also cools the flue while sucking room air up the chimney. so you will have creosote + more heat loss. The guys over in the boiler forum use them a lot, it's less common to see one on a stove but not unheard of.
 
I think enlarging the flue would do more to reduce draft than downsizing. However, 40' is just a lot of flue. After thinking about it more I think more dampers are probably the best bet.
 
This is what I'm up against 14 foot side wall22 feet To peak inside 40' to top of chimney [Hearth.com] re visiting stove ownership
 
Looks more like 30-33 ft.
 
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only 32'. Forty from Ground. If I use full stainless. Dealer who did put 1st install with 12 ft black pipe inside less stainless. Second install from different dealerwas 30 " above stove more stainless sold it all, but 4' section sticking out of chase 8 years ago. I had a Access door in chase covered with siding if I doing it again I'll put permanent Access door in Chase. Dealers who did before didn't think of access to pipes for inspection or cleaning but code inspector from county approved it.have rungs installed on inside of Chase easy climb.
 
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Looks more like 30-33 ft.
At most
only 32'. Forty from Ground if I use full stainless we put 1st install with 12 ft black pipe inside less stainless. Second install was 30 " above stove more stainless sold all but 4' section sticking out 8 years ago. I had a Access door in chase covered with siding if I doing it again I'll put permanent Access door in Chase. Dealers who did before didn't think of access to pipes for inspection have rungs installed on inside of Chase easy climb.
I am confused. Is the stove on the first floor?
 
yes
At most

I am confused. Is the stove on the first floor?yes on 1st floor china cabinet is moved used to set just to right edge of hutch.
yes on 1st floor china cabinet is moved used to set just to right edge of hutch. Its a big wall 6' high hutch. I refinished wall after taking out stove

[Hearth.com] re visiting stove ownership
 
yes
yes on 1st floor china cabinet is moved used to set just to right edge of hutch. Its a big wall 6' high hutch. I refinished wall after taking out stove

View attachment 280482
Ok. So if it is 22' to the peak inside how it the top of the chimney 18' above that?
 
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guess I need a remeasure better perspective I thinks it higher side wall are 12'
View attachment 280483
I count 81 courses of siding from the foundation. That is 27'. Plus the chimney sticking out the top minus the thickness of the floor minus the height of the stove minus 2' for each of the 90 degree elbow. You might be at 25' one damper should do but if not a second will certainly bring the draft into spec. What was your draft measuring at before?
 
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My goals are to have access to inside of chase to clean from bottom of Class A inside chase also to check connections. Find a way to optimize draft (prevent overdraft) decide where to go through wall to create best operation higher on wall less Class A but more frequent cleanings in the years I burned Sweeps found no issues or excess buildup in pipes. Only cleaned from top vacuumed clean-out and checked system. No dealer ever checked draft just said excessive. I could get 10hr burn out of Super 27. With Damper about 3/4s closed. need to find competent Dealer last ones I used are of business. Wonder Why? I feel the Dealers didn't use due diligence 1st and 2nd time around.
 
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My goals are to have access to inside of chase to clean from bottom of Class A inside chase also to check connections. Find a way to optimize draft (prevent overdraft) decide where to go through wall to create best operation higher on wall less Class A but more frequent cleanings in the years I burned Sweeps found no issues or excess buildup in pipes. Only cleaned from top vacuumed clean-out and checked system. No dealer ever checked draft just said excessive. I could get 10hr burn out of Super 27. With Damper about 3/4s closed. need to find competent Dealer last ones I used are of business. Wonder Why? I feel the Dealers didn't use due diligence 1st and 2nd time around.
If you were getting 10 hour burns with it only closed 3/4 of the way your draft had to be pretty close to spec.
 
good to know
do you think the way they installed in a sealed chase was ok?
 
Do you have any recommendations for Stove Blaze King, PE, whatever
 
good to know
do you think the way they installed in a sealed chase was ok?
I have no idea honestly I would have to see the install in person. Personally I would recommend only having 4" of pipe or so in the house. Then an access door outside to get to the bottom of the tee so it can be cleaned easily from the bottom.
 
First, I'd compare the rated outputs of the stoves you've had, and compare them to how well they met your heating power needs. Then compare that to the models you are looking into.

Given the high ceilings, and despite the ceiling fans, it'll be hard to give you good advice in any other way because of the unusual space.

And only then look at aesthetics and other issues.
 
Englander NC30 Almost overheated Super 27 was about right size wise
 
I have no idea honestly I would have to see the install in person. Personally I would recommend only having 4" of pipe or so in the house. Then an access door outside to get to the bottom of the tee so it can be cleaned easily from the bottom.
4 Inches how is that possible? it farther that that to the wall