Splitter opinions

[RandyBoBandy]

My neighbor has a huskee from TSC with a Briggs. I am not a fan. They put the lever on the same side as the motor. With the exhaust facing the operator. When the splitter is in the vertical position and you are wrestling a round up to it you are literally eating exhaust fumes. Not cool. I would suggest keeping this in mind when looking at splitters.

 

[SpaceBus]

My neighbor has a huskee from TSC with a Briggs. I am not a fan. They put the lever on the same side as the motor. With the exhaust facing the operator. When the splitter is in the vertical position and you are wrestling a round up to it you are literally eating exhaust fumes. Not cool. I would suggest keeping this in mind when looking at splitters.

Definitely a valid critique of the machine. My heart is set on a Brave unit from my local dealer. If they prove to be less than ergonomic, then I will look elsewhere.

 

[TreePointer]

My neighbor has a huskee from TSC with a Briggs. I am not a fan. They put the lever on the same side as the motor. With the exhaust facing the operator. When the splitter is in the vertical position and you are wrestling a round up to it you are literally eating exhaust fumes. Not cool. I would suggest keeping this in mind when looking at splitters.

I still have one of those Huskee splitters (SpeeCo) with the engine on the same side as the operator. It has a 2009 build date. SpeeCo moved the engine to the other side on all their models shortly afterward.

 

[jaoneill]

Just as a heads up.. theres really nothing that your going to come across that you cant split with a 22 tone splitter.. if it makes you feel better than go to a 24 ton. The weight is a big difference which is what i was trying to say in my first post. Event though your going to have an ATV or somthing pulling it. You still need to be able to lift it move it around to hook it up, and a 30+ton is really heavy. If you sit down and think about the usage of the splitter they dont run verry long.. your only going to run it for about 20 hours per year. The math is this. Each cord is roughly 3 or 4 hours of splitting time. Most people burn 4 cords roughly some more. So take the longest time x s 4 cords and your at 16 hours plus if your going to be splitting your owne kindling.. your at about 20 hours.. so in 10 years you barley going to have 200 hours on your splitter.
Man makes earplugs and they sell them cheap.. your just buying wayyyyy to much splitter... and spending wayyyyy more money than you need to.. if your dead set on spending that kind of money than go ahead. Or you can look at it this way. I spent just just about 950 for a new 22 ton splitter.. your going to spend 2400 I think that was the price of the 37 ton splitter and really theres no difference in what your going to be able to split and what I'm able to split.
Do your self a favor.. try and hook up that 37 ton splitter by your self to somthing before you wright the check.. once you try to move it alone... you'll come to your senses

I tried to make the same arguments against the monster machines in another thread but.......

 

[RandyBoBandy]

I still have one of those Huskee splitters (SpeeCo) with the engine on the same side as the operator. It has a 2009 build date. SpeeCo moved the engine to the other side on all their models shortly afterward.

It amazes me that stuff like this makers it through quality control and hits the market. I realized how dumb the design was 4 minutes into using the the splitter. Makes me happy to hear they fixed it though.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

When I’m out cutting I really try to only go for stuff 20” in diameter and smaller. Reasons being I don’t have a vertical option on my splitter and I really don’t feel like wrestling around anything bigger. That said my 20 ton splitter that I can move around by hand and with my four wheeler is all the splitter I will ever need. I’ve never been to Maine but I’m guessing you are not going to be coming across many 36” fir or spruce or any of the softwood you will be cutting.

 

[SpaceBus]

When I’m out cutting I really try to only go for stuff 20” in diameter and smaller. Reasons being I don’t have a vertical option on my splitter and I really don’t feel like wrestling around anything bigger. That said my 20 ton splitter that I can move around by hand and with my four wheeler is all the splitter I will ever need. I’ve never been to Maine but I’m guessing you are not going to be coming across many 36” fir or spruce or any of the softwood you will be cutting.

There are still a few that big, but not many, especially now. There's a couple of big maples on my property, but I'd like to not cut them down unless some kind of blight takes them. I hand split a couple that were at or over 30" when we first got here. They were rooted on the edges of our parking area and were pretty dry, thankfully. Still a bear to split by hand, had to use the wedges and sledges frequently. These were kind of yard trees so had a lot of twist and knots. I'm hoping the stuff further in won't be so bad to split. These two big dead trees were killed by bugs and are full of holes. Hopefully the whole place isn't infested with tree bugs.

 

[Kevin Weis]

I have a 28 ton TSC with a 3 hp Honda and two stage pump and it goes through everything I throw at it and yes even American Elm. No need for anything bigger

 

[Ashful]

I have a 28 ton TSC with a 3 hp Honda and two stage pump and it goes through everything I throw at it and yes even American Elm. No need for anything bigger

You sure it’s only 3hp? I’d suspect bigger. What’s your pump GPM at the max motor RPM? I’d suspect most 28 ton machines are running at least 8hp, with a lot of them closer to 10 hp.

 

[StihlKicking]

I agree with all that has been said about a 20 ton splitter being plenty. I’ve never seen a piece of any of our south eastern hardwoods that a 20 ton wouldn’t walk right through. I currently have a 28 ton it’s to heavy, a pain to move, and splits wood no better than the old 20 ton. If I was prepared to spend $2400 plus on a splitter I would be looking at something with a hydraulic lift. If working alone it’s such a pain to wrestle big rounds on to or under my splitter I would just assume swing an axe at them.

 

[kevin j]

You will be way happy with a 4 inch splitter (20-25 tons, depends on marketing BS).
I have a 4 inch with log lift and feet, and it plenty for anything I can physically handle by hand (no skidsteer)
"If your gear is never too small, it is always too big"

Not saying you want a 3 inch like I built below, but 4 inch should be way plenty unless you have a woodlot or landing and do a lot of big stuff.


cut and paste from my files
I built a splitter last year that totally goes against the 'biggest, baddest, splits anything' grain.


I burn wood for about 70% of my heat. I also volunteer with a charity group that cuts and splits firewood for needy families. I have a shared 4 inch splitter that I built covers, folding log lift, and folding outrigger feet. It does big stuff, but is stored off site due to my small lot, and it is not easy for me to use for small scrounges, nor do I have an open trailer to haul it to the charity cutting.


I have used many splitters over the last 25 years and my main complaint is speed, very rarely force. My goal is the maximum amount of wood in the trailer in the minimum amount of time. I prefer to cut and split a trailer load of medium sized wood at a time, in the woods, and leave the mess and noise there. I would like a lighter splitter I can store at home, take with me to the woods, work rapidly, and bring home.


I have no ego problems admitting defeat, and I just leave the big rounds or twisted crotches in the woods, rather than spend a lot of time and sweat and muscles fighting them. I will get more wood per day and not worry about the 2% condition where the ram is too small. Those who brag 'there is nothing this one can't split' really mean that to handle the 2% monster rounds, it is too big and slow for 98% of the time. There is an old saying: "If your gear is never too small, it is always too big."


My original intent was to find a small splitter that could mount for travel on a receiver hitch on the rear of my trailer, to handle everything in one trip. Brave EZ Split, older Sears Craftsman, and Bachtold Brothers made really small and light units, but were single stage pump and WAY too slow (20-25 seconds).


My goals

1. For homeowner, wood scrounger use, not heavy duty wood lot use.

2. For wood diameter about 18 inch maximum (the largest I can lift or handle), and 16 inches long.

3. Want maximum speed, maximum mobility, and minimum weigh.

4. I don't want the biggest, meanest machine. I want the most wood in the trailer in a day

5. A 3 inch cylinder and 8 to 10 tons is sufficient for what I need.

6. Must be a two stage pump for maximum speed.

7. Minimize the hydraulic system weight, size, and heat generation by good design efficiency and a specific de-aeration spiral reservoir design.

8. Mount to receiver hitch, ideally for use but at least for travel, to move everything in one trip.

9. Good ergonomics for my aging body: good height, not bending my back, natural valve location and operation, minimize trip hazards, good input and output tables.

10. Quick to assemble or knock down with no tools, minimal or no loose parts, easy to move around, and should stand upright for storage taking minimal floor space.

11. Any single piece is to be portable by one person, either by wheels or by physically carrying.



CRITIQUES THAT I GET

1. 'Too small to do the massive rounds I get'. True. See goals 1, 2, and 4.

2. 'Too lightly built. My big rounds would crush that machine.' True. See goals 1, 2, 10 and 11.

3. 'Tank is too small for the 'rules' for 13 gpm flow.' Nope. Professionally designed to meet goal 7.

4. 'It will overheat.' Nope. Runs hot on hot days, 80 F over ambient, but adequate hydraulic practice for as hot of a day as I wish to work firewood.

5. 'Costs as much or more than a box store 4 inch splitter.' Definitely true ! Most major components cost the same regardless of splitter size, especially when purchased one at a time. It costs money to get to goals 10 and 11.


I am a retired mechanical and fluid power engineer. Eventually, I designed and built a portable 3 inch diameter splitter. It is designed to break down and all pieces be hand carried or loaded by one person, to be set up quickly for portable use, and for very fast ( 6 seconds out and back) operation on wood under about 18 inches in diameter. It all fits into a receiver hitch cargo basket for transport. The beam stands on end for storage.


DATA

Force and power 3 inch cylinder, 20 inch stroke, 2400 psi, 8.5 tons max.

Speed About 6 seconds full cycle at 1.9 tons

Production One person, 3/4 full cord per hour. 3 persons, 1 full cord per hour.

Heat 80F over ambient. 165 F tank on 85 F day.

Layout Moving wedge, 6 high, plus 3 inch secondary, 26 degree included angle

Beam 6 x 4 x 3/16 rectangular tubing, reinforced, 36 inches off the ground

Engine Honda 160 cc engine, salvaged, on vibration isolators.

Pump Haldex nominal 13 gpm (0.192 + 0.647 = 0.849 cir) Unloading 500-600 psi.

Valves Prince relief valve on power unit about 2600-3000 psi

Prince spool valve, RV 2400 psi, detent and kickout on retract

Tank Custom made, spiral de-aeration design, about 2-1/2 gallons.

AW46 petroleum hydraulic fluid.

Usual accessories Return filter, spin on 10 micron. Sight gauge/thermometer, fill cap.

Conductors SAE 37 degree swivels, -08 (1/2) inch pressure hoses, -10 (5/8) return

hose. -16 quick couplers.

Misc In and out tables, quick detachable wheels, no-tool assembly.

Tripod leg design. Stows for travel on a receiver hitch cargo basket.






END

 

[Ashful]

You will be way happy with a 4 inch splitter (20-25 tons, depends on marketing BS).
I have a 4 inch with log lift and feet, and it plenty for anything I can physically handle by hand (no skidsteer)
"If your gear is never too small, it is always too big"

Not saying you want a 3 inch like I built below, but 4 inch should be way plenty unless you have a woodlot or landing and do a lot of big stuff.


cut and paste from my files
I built a splitter last year that totally goes against the 'biggest, baddest, splits anything' grain.


I burn wood for about 70% of my heat. I also volunteer with a charity group that cuts and splits firewood for needy families. I have a shared 4 inch splitter that I built covers, folding log lift, and folding outrigger feet. It does big stuff, but is stored off site due to my small lot, and it is not easy for me to use for small scrounges, nor do I have an open trailer to haul it to the charity cutting.


I have used many splitters over the last 25 years and my main complaint is speed, very rarely force. My goal is the maximum amount of wood in the trailer in the minimum amount of time. I prefer to cut and split a trailer load of medium sized wood at a time, in the woods, and leave the mess and noise there. I would like a lighter splitter I can store at home, take with me to the woods, work rapidly, and bring home.


I have no ego problems admitting defeat, and I just leave the big rounds or twisted crotches in the woods, rather than spend a lot of time and sweat and muscles fighting them. I will get more wood per day and not worry about the 2% condition where the ram is too small. Those who brag 'there is nothing this one can't split' really mean that to handle the 2% monster rounds, it is too big and slow for 98% of the time. There is an old saying: "If your gear is never too small, it is always too big."


My original intent was to find a small splitter that could mount for travel on a receiver hitch on the rear of my trailer, to handle everything in one trip. Brave EZ Split, older Sears Craftsman, and Bachtold Brothers made really small and light units, but were single stage pump and WAY too slow (20-25 seconds).


My goals

1. For homeowner, wood scrounger use, not heavy duty wood lot use.

2. For wood diameter about 18 inch maximum (the largest I can lift or handle), and 16 inches long.

3. Want maximum speed, maximum mobility, and minimum weigh.

4. I don't want the biggest, meanest machine. I want the most wood in the trailer in a day

5. A 3 inch cylinder and 8 to 10 tons is sufficient for what I need.

6. Must be a two stage pump for maximum speed.

7. Minimize the hydraulic system weight, size, and heat generation by good design efficiency and a specific de-aeration spiral reservoir design.

8. Mount to receiver hitch, ideally for use but at least for travel, to move everything in one trip.

9. Good ergonomics for my aging body: good height, not bending my back, natural valve location and operation, minimize trip hazards, good input and output tables.

10. Quick to assemble or knock down with no tools, minimal or no loose parts, easy to move around, and should stand upright for storage taking minimal floor space.

11. Any single piece is to be portable by one person, either by wheels or by physically carrying.



CRITIQUES THAT I GET

1. 'Too small to do the massive rounds I get'. True. See goals 1, 2, and 4.

2. 'Too lightly built. My big rounds would crush that machine.' True. See goals 1, 2, 10 and 11.

3. 'Tank is too small for the 'rules' for 13 gpm flow.' Nope. Professionally designed to meet goal 7.

4. 'It will overheat.' Nope. Runs hot on hot days, 80 F over ambient, but adequate hydraulic practice for as hot of a day as I wish to work firewood.

5. 'Costs as much or more than a box store 4 inch splitter.' Definitely true ! Most major components cost the same regardless of splitter size, especially when purchased one at a time. It costs money to get to goals 10 and 11.


I am a retired mechanical and fluid power engineer. Eventually, I designed and built a portable 3 inch diameter splitter. It is designed to break down and all pieces be hand carried or loaded by one person, to be set up quickly for portable use, and for very fast ( 6 seconds out and back) operation on wood under about 18 inches in diameter. It all fits into a receiver hitch cargo basket for transport. The beam stands on end for storage.


DATA

Force and power 3 inch cylinder, 20 inch stroke, 2400 psi, 8.5 tons max.

Speed About 6 seconds full cycle at 1.9 tons

Production One person, 3/4 full cord per hour. 3 persons, 1 full cord per hour.

Heat 80F over ambient. 165 F tank on 85 F day.

Layout Moving wedge, 6 high, plus 3 inch secondary, 26 degree included angle

Beam 6 x 4 x 3/16 rectangular tubing, reinforced, 36 inches off the ground

Engine Honda 160 cc engine, salvaged, on vibration isolators.

Pump Haldex nominal 13 gpm (0.192 + 0.647 = 0.849 cir) Unloading 500-600 psi.

Valves Prince relief valve on power unit about 2600-3000 psi

Prince spool valve, RV 2400 psi, detent and kickout on retract

Tank Custom made, spiral de-aeration design, about 2-1/2 gallons.

AW46 petroleum hydraulic fluid.

Usual accessories Return filter, spin on 10 micron. Sight gauge/thermometer, fill cap.

Conductors SAE 37 degree swivels, -08 (1/2) inch pressure hoses, -10 (5/8) return

hose. -16 quick couplers.

Misc In and out tables, quick detachable wheels, no-tool assembly.

Tripod leg design. Stows for travel on a receiver hitch cargo basket.






END

I think you just convinced me to try a smaller cylinder on my own splitter. I’m currently over-spinning a 16 GPM pump to 19.2 GPM with a 344cc engine, into a 4” cylinder. It’s fast, but not quite as fast as I’d like.

Some quick back of the envelope numbers indicate that dropping to 3.5” would reduce my force by 24%, but give me 30% better speed. Going to 3.0” would drop splitting force by 44% and give me 78% better speed. I’m currently around 8 seconds full cycle time for 48” travel (24” down + 24” up).

Another thing I’ve considered is reducing travel with a shorter cylinder, my new stove only takes 18” wood. Every inch of travel counts, when aiming for minimum cycle time.

 

[SpaceBus]

I think you just convinced me to try a smaller cylinder on my own splitter. I’m currently over-spinning a 16 GPM pump to 19.2 GPM with a 344cc engine, into a 4” cylinder. It’s fast, but not quite as fast as I’d like.

Some quick back of the envelope numbers indicate that dropping to 3.5” would reduce my force by 24%, but give me 30% better speed. Going to 3.0” would drop splitting force by 44% and give me 78% better speed. I’m currently around 8” full cycle time for 48” travel (24” down + 24” up).

Another thing I’ve considered is reducing travel with a shorter cylinder, my new stove only takes 18” wood. Every inch of travel counts, when aiming for minimum cycle time.

Mine is the same at 18". My new goals for a splitter are a bit more aligned with you. I want something easily moved around my property with an atv sized piece of equipment. I saw some smaller splitters at the local place. I'm headed there today, I'll post my findings.

 

[maple1]

Mine is the same at 18". My new goals for a splitter are a bit more aligned with you. I want something easily moved around my property with an atv sized piece of equipment. I saw some smaller splitters at the local place. I'm headed there today, I'll post my findings.

Don't forget about being able to move it around a bit or reposition it by hand decently easy without having the ATV hooked to it. Big for me at least.

 

[Ashful]

Don't forget about being able to move it around a bit or reposition it by hand decently easy without having the ATV hooked to it. Big for me at least.

Ditto. When I talk about moving it, I’m always talking about by hand. The tractor doesn’t care what size the splitter is, if I’m going to the trouble to hook that up, but I’d rather just grab the tongue and drag it around by hand.

 

[SpaceBus]

Thank you guys for imparting some first hand use wisdom upon me. Simplify and add lightness.

 

[kevin j]

I think you just convinced me to try a smaller cylinder on my own splitter. I’m currently over-spinning a 16 GPM pump to 19.2 GPM with a 344cc engine, into a 4” cylinder. It’s fast, but not quite as fast as I’d like.

Some quick back of the envelope numbers indicate that dropping to 3.5” would reduce my force by 24%, but give me 30% better speed. Going to 3.0” would drop splitting force by 44% and give me 78% better speed. I’m currently around 8 seconds full cycle time for 48” travel (24” down + 24” up).

Another thing I’ve considered is reducing travel with a shorter cylinder, my new stove only takes 18” wood. Every inch of travel counts, when aiming for minimum cycle time.

Try the snap on aluminum stroke reducers first it’s a quick test the only thing you have to watch out for is that the ID of the spacers doesn’t contact the seal area where it comes out of the rod. Most farm supply places carry them for maybe $25 or so for a set

also with that size of engine you should be able to set your unloading pressure on the pump quite high so that it would stay on high flow as long as possible

I didn’t look at your numbers, but your math is wrong somewhere. The force and the speed should be the same change. area changes with diameter squared but speed also changes with that area so if you got 44% speed difference you should have 44% force difference

 

[maple1]

I just took a quick peek at the Brave site. The layout isn't something I would get along with. Controls oriented to one side, and the engine is vulnerable to splits that might get away from you.

Aside from my splitter, I had been thinking if I went looking again an Ariens would be up the list of what I'd consider. I just re-checked those out too. I like that layout better. The control is central, and the engine is further back more out of harms way (not so much on their smallest one). But they still show Subaru engines - not sure they still do those anymore? Didn't Subaru get out of that business - or am I thinking about something else? And - they also have the controls mounted directly to and right on top of the cylinder fitting. That's another thing that seems to be kind of common among some builders that I just can't be comfortable with.

I guess mine has me spoiled & picky.

 

[Ashful]

Try the snap on aluminum stroke reducers first it’s a quick test the only thing you have to watch out for is that the ID of the spacers doesn’t contact the seal area where it comes out of the rod. Most farm supply places carry them for maybe $25 or so for a set

also with that size of engine you should be able to set your unloading pressure on the pump quite high so that it would stay on high flow as long as possible

I didn’t look at your numbers, but your math is wrong somewhere. The force and the speed should be the same change. area changes with diameter squared but speed also changes with that area so if you got 44% speed difference you should have 44% force difference

I’ve seen those spacers at TSC, but I’ve also seen stories of guys snapping the ends off their rods at the wedge pin, because the hardened rods don’t have much tensile strength. I guess it depends how high your retract detent pressure is set.

I like the idea of bumping up the unloading pressure, I hadn’t realized that was independently adjustable on each gear. I’ll have to see if I can find a manual for my valve, or one similar.

You might be right on the math, I was just doing it quickly in my head, but I think it should be right:

3.0” cylinder R = 1.5
3.5” cylinder R = 1.75
4.0” cylinder R = 2.0

Force multiplier: R1^2/R2^2
Speed multiplier: R2^2/R1^2

So, 4” to 3” would be force multiplier 2.25/4.00 = 0.56, or 44% less force. But speed multiplier is 4.00/2.25 = 177%.

I’ll sit down and do this long-hand when I have a few minutes, but like I said, I think this is right.

 

[Ashful]

Yes, I just checked the math:

3” cylinder is 56% the force of 4” cylinder, or “44% less”.

3” cylinder is 56% the cycle time of the 4” cylinder, 4.59 sec vs 8.16 sec at 19.2 GPM and 48” stroke, or 4.59/8.16 = 177% the speed.

We are saying the same thing, I think my way of phrasing it just caught you off-guard. You were probably thinking 56% and 56%, which is true, I just rearranged the same numbers to fit the phrasing.

 

[SpaceBus]

This is what I ended up deciding on: https://www.braveproducts.com/logsplitters/brave20tondualsplit.html

The splitter, Stihl 150 top handle, Husky 395XP for a chainsaw mill, 3pt snowblower and stump grinder, pallet forks, and a Kioti DK4710SE with FEL will be delivered tomorrow.

 

[maple1]

Man, you went shopping.

 

[SpaceBus]

Man, you went shopping.

Yes, I'm tired of struggling.

 

[thewoodlands]

This is what I ended up deciding on: https://www.braveproducts.com/logsplitters/brave20tondualsplit.html

The splitter, Stihl 150 top handle, Husky 395XP for a chainsaw mill, 3pt snowblower and stump grinder, pallet forks, and a Kioti DK4710SE with FEL will be delivered tomorrow.

Congratulations on getting everything before the big one hits.

 

[Ashful]

This is what I ended up deciding on: https://www.braveproducts.com/logsplitters/brave20tondualsplit.html

The splitter, Stihl 150 top handle, Husky 395XP for a chainsaw mill, 3pt snowblower and stump grinder, pallet forks, and a Kioti DK4710SE with FEL will be delivered tomorrow.

I’m anxious to get your review on this one, as I don’t see how it’s possible to get a 7 second cycle on a 4” x 24” cylinder with a 160cc motor. That’s normally 400cc motor territory, since you need about 20 GPM to hit those speeds. I almost wonder if they’re just counting the up-stroke time, and calling it “cycle time”.