What kind of pipe is that? My first thought would be clearances to the wood framing on either side. Single wall pipe clearances are pretty large. And I don't think a wall thimble would solve that. Usually a wall thimble carries class A chimney pipe.
And looking at the picture I am looking inside the house? Also kind of puzzled by the siding on the brick chimney. My main concern would be that single wall pipe clearance is 18" from combustible. The wood framing on either side and the siding is definitely too close to the pipe as is.
You need a thimble to protect the studs. Selkirk's is probably the most affordable.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/chimney-passing-a-chimney-through-the-wall.147754/
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/wall-thimble.112191/
The snout passes through the thimble. It is just 6" round ss pipe, no brand.I thought you couldn't mix pipe brands?
The thimble creates the combustibles barrier. Cement board can be taken right up to it. Insul-flue provides good protection. It looks like this installation would need one wall unit and one wall thimble.The article link previously posted lists alternatives to this type of thimble. Most require greater clearances.
(broken link removed)
Is your brick chimney lined with a clay tile flue? Is the flue in good shape with no cracks or gaps in the mortar joints? Is your SS flex liner insulated? If the chimney doesn't have a clay tile flue that is in good shape (no cracks or gaps in mortar joints), then you have to have an insulated SS flex liner for fire protection.
As for your question regarding what you can use to replace those wooden studs: One option would be to replace them with a couple sections of steel I beam. Or if you can't get access to that you could use steel pipe like what is used to make supports in basements. With either of these options you could then place a couple of metal studs next to them to use for attaching your cement board.
This is my favorite thimble to use. You bolt it right to the side of the chimney and it allows a tee snout to pass right through and comes with the trim ring for a nice look. https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/insulated-chimney-thimble-rigid-pipe-connection.php
The existence or condition of a clay liner has absolutely nothing to do with the insulation requirement for a stainless liner. It all has to do with the clearance to combustibles. In this case it is insulated so it doesn't matter but i just thought i should clear that up.Is your brick chimney lined with a clay tile flue? Is the flue in good shape with no cracks or gaps in the mortar joints? Is your SS flex liner insulated? If the chimney doesn't have a clay tile flue that is in good shape (no cracks or gaps in mortar joints), then you have to have an insulated SS flex liner for fire protection.
Fire retardant is not the same as non combustible those studs cannot be withing the clearance to combustibles range. So any of the thimbles begreen listed will take care of the issueNothing to worry about in regards to the chimney. I just had a liner put in and it wrapped with insulation. I just recently installed the fire retardant studs in the picture. I'm guessing the thimble will be the way to go. I just can't figure out what thimble would work best.
Yeah one inch should be good. I think I read Roxul is fire rated but I would double check on that.Thx man! That might just do the trick.. So it looks like this cuts the clearance down to 1" since mine is an exterior chimney? Says not to put insulation any closer than that so I guess I should leave 1" airspace between this and my roxul?
The thimble gets a box framed opening. No insulation goes in that opening.Thx man! That might just do the trick.. So it looks like this cuts the clearance down to 1" since mine is an exterior chimney? Says not to put insulation any closer than that so I guess I should leave 1" airspace between this and my roxul?
Sounds right. Give Rockford a call if there are specific questions, like how long the tee snout should be.
That is perfectly fine that is how we do itI do have another question.. this is an older picture so ignore the surrounding area but when my liner was installed the installers stuffed some of the insulation from the insulation wrap around the snout after they connected it to the Tee and then put masonry cement over that. Is this okay or does that need to be removed?
That is perfectly fine that is how we do it
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