Vogelzang BX26-EL Efficiency

[Reconor894]

Hello, I'm new to this forum even though I have been reading it for years. Recently I was curious about the efficiency of my vogelzang boxwood stove. I've been burning wood for years at my parents but recently got my own house and my own wood stove my house is 1200 square feet and this little stove running at 600 (imperial magnetic gauge 14 inches from the collar) will keep my house at 84 and sometimes hotter with outside Temps in the single digits. Now it does use quite a bit of good hard and dry maple and locust mainly to do it. I adjust the dampers correctly and everything. I feel like a lot of my heat is going up the chimney. Now for the chimney details. Its 8 feet total height. Straight up. First 4 feet is regular black pipe. Then the final 3 is double wall stainless plus the cap. The house is never less than 60 so there is a draft going all the time. Never have an issue and always strong. Now with all that heat just flying up there... How can I get some of that heat out? I will clean it 2 times a season if needed. But I've been looking at radiator rings that snap on and reclaimers and custom blowers and whatever. I just need some guidance and suggestions. I wanna keep my heat level but burn less wood. Thanks in advance!

 

[begreen]

If there isn't a key damper in the flue, that is what I would add. Close it when the fire is burning well. Reclaimers are noisy creosote machines. Instead of spending bucks on poor solutions the most efficient thing would be to replace the stove next season. 1200 sq ft doesn't need that much heat. There are good efficient and clean burning stoves out there for under $700. They'll send a lot less heat up the chimney and more in the house which means less wood burned.

 

[Reconor894]

If there isn't a key damper in the flue, that is what I would add. Close it when the fire is burning well. Reclaimers are noisy creosote machines. Instead of spending bucks on poor solutions the most efficient thing would be to replace the stove next season. 1200 sq ft doesn't need that much heat. There are good efficient and clean burning stoves out there for under $700. They'll send a lot less heat up the chimney and more in the house which means less wood burned.

It has the key damper already. And money and space as both limited. I can't go bigger than a boxwood anyhow cause it's already way too close to combustibles so I had to add two layers of metal and air spacing between the stove and the walls. The walls always are cool so it works fine now but a bigger stove will become an issue.

 

[begreen]

No need to go larger. A 2 cu ft steel stove would do the job fine. A modern stove will be able to be installed with much closer clearances that the boxwood. That stove has the maximum clearance requirement. Here's an alternative example:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Englander-1-800-sq-ft-Wood-Burning-Stove-13-NCH/100157775

 

[Reconor894]

Think I could fit one in that hole? It's trapezoid shape cutout in a manufactured home.

 

[begreen]

Yes, though the rear clearance for pipe and current stove look illegal. The minimum clearance behind the stove to the nearest combustible (wall behind the shield) is 12" with a properly ventilated wall shield. The minimum clearance for the pipe is 6".

Actually this stove is illegal to install in a manufactured home.

 

[Reconor894]

Yes, though the rear clearance for pipe and current stove look illegal. The minimum clearance behind the stove to the nearest combustible (wall behind the shield) is 12" with a properly ventilated wall shield. The minimum clearance for the pipe is 6".

Actually this stove is illegal to install in a manufactured home.

I know that's what the manual says but I got it for 100 bucks and i couldn't afford electric heat so I made it work. It's 3 inches from the back of the stove to the first metal layer. And 5 for the pipe. Then 2 inches of space and another metal layer right in front of the windows. Its been fine for months and the metal is consistently cool to the touch.

 

[Reconor894]

Doesn't mean it's right though... I know.

 

[CheapBassTurd]

This one hit home a bit.

One of my best buds is on SS and in a trailer home. He did the same thing for years and not
out of choice. It was simple survival and he too, made a highly safe system of spacers, metal,
and thin cement board. The outer wall was room temp. Not EPA legal, but just the same an
EPA inspector would find it to be totally safe under the specially prepared conditions.

I am currently in layoff after switching careers and first year employees get hit every winter.
Dead broke after child support, and I'd do the same thing to keep my family warm no question.
In fact, I am with the model 2421 "stove of death" for 300 bux compared to 500+ dollar (US)
monthly heating bills. Like you, it's been prepped for safety and this is an emergency so to
speak. Luckily layoff only happens to newbies, and the pay is good enough for a fine stove
before the next heating season.

Do what you need to do and do it safe. which you already are.
Right or wrong legally, I support your very well executed project.

Mark A. Wolfe

 

[begreen]

Not EPA legal, but just the same an
EPA inspector would find it to be totally safe under the specially prepared conditions.

The EPA does not inspect stove installations, nor does it set fire or building codes.

 

[CheapBassTurd]

Thank you, Green.
Thus far I'm taking everything you type at face value. A site this long lived, and having
the massive membership it has wouldn't have someone ignorant to fact moderating.
I'm using yourself and a coupla others as mentors on a topic that can be literally life and death.
Feel free to take that as a compliment. It is.

I take a shift also moderating KLRforum.com and it was quite an honor when they asked me aboard.
Got the bike home, joined the forum, and took the bike apart ! I learned every bolt and cable on that
monster as I do to all my bikes over the years. Replace factory weaknesses, reassemble, adjust, etc.
Motorcycling too, is a life and death sport. Once the mods saw me explaining carb mods for altitide,
economy, performance, safe tire pressures for different conditions n' terrain I became a moderator.
They saw that I understand the equipment, how to maintain and adjust parts, change stuff out, and mainly
they saw that I'm a nice guy and show respect to even the newbies. They saw that I had safety in many posts.

I'm seeing that here too. Not just this thread. You aren't doing this out of boredom. I can see it's a passion here.
Keep on typin' and burnin',
Cheeeeeeeeeeap

Sorry to jack the thread. Let's return now to our regularly scheduled burn thread.

 

[Reconor894]

This one hit home a bit.

One of my best buds is on SS and in a trailer home. He did the same thing for years and not
out of choice. It was simple survival and he too, made a highly safe system of spacers, metal,
and thin cement board. The outer wall was room temp. Not EPA legal, but just the same an
EPA inspector would find it to be totally safe under the specially prepared conditions.

I am currently in layoff after switching careers and first year employees get hit every winter.
Dead broke after child support, and I'd do the same thing to keep my family warm no question.
In fact, I am with the model 2421 "stove of death" for 300 bux compared to 500+ dollar (US)
monthly heating bills. Like you, it's been prepped for safety and this is an emergency so to
speak. Luckily layoff only happens to newbies, and the pay is good enough for a fine stove
before the next heating season.

Do what you need to do and do it safe. which you already are.
Right or wrong legally, I support your very well executed project.

Mark A. Wolfe

Thank you sir. Best of luck!