What Gauge Metal Studs for Vertical Brick Veneer Wall?

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NorEaster603

New Member
Sep 29, 2022
33
NH
Hello,

I appreciated the input on my previous thread about building a non combustible wall and hearth for my upcoming Nectre N550 installation. I now have a more straightforward structural question:

What gauge metal studs can i trust to support 1/2” cement board and thin brick veneer on a vertical wall? HD and Lowe’s stock paper thin 25ga studs which say “non structural”. This won’t be a supporting wall but cement board and brick are far heavier than drywall. Lowes website has 20ga studs i can special order, and i’ve read building supply houses stock 16 ga. Has anyone else been down this road and what did you use? All the articles i saw on this site were talking about horizontal hearth pad framing not vertical wall framing.

So what do you think, 20ga studs 16” on center? 25ga studs good enough with narrower spacing? Ideally i wouldn’t have to worry if i wanted to add a mantle down the road or hooks for tools and drying gear either. Any input appreciated. Thanks!
 
Would depend how they are going to be fixed to the existing wall.
Are they going into existing studs or into brick or stone?
 
There is no existing wall for it to attach to. This will be a framed partition wall with a 2 inch air gap around a masonry chimney. It will be tied into the subfloor and ceiling like a normal non load bearing wall would.
 
Bumping this since I really need to know. I would assume 20GA is an absolute minimum. I found this online but I think it is for exterior load bearing walls with standard brick rather than a partition wall with cement board and thin brick:

Brick Veneer Steel Stud Walls

Thanks!
 
This will be a framed partition wall with a 2 inch air gap around a masonry chimney.
If the partition is 100% non-combustible, then it can touch the chimney.
 
20 gauge is fine and a standard. Heavier than that is not commonly available.

Thank you for the answer and link!

And as for the air gap, the floor joists are already framed with the gap so I wouldn't have a floor to build off if the metal studs touched the chimney. Otherwise I would do that the save space.

One more question, is the method for metal framing a corner the same with cement board as it is for drywall?
 
Thank you for the answer and link!

And as for the air gap, the floor joists are already framed with the gap so I wouldn't have a floor to build off if the metal studs touched the chimney. Otherwise I would do that the save space.

One more question, is the method for metal framing a corner the same with cement board as it is for drywall?
Essentially yes, there needs to be an attachment surface on both planes.