That's what I am concerned about. I have been getting temps of 550-650 with 5 pieces. Worried that packing it right might cause an over fire. It's hard to fit more than 5 pieces. I have tried.
Why such a short burn?
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That's what I am concerned about. I have been getting temps of 550-650 with 5 pieces. Worried that packing it right might cause an over fire. It's hard to fit more than 5 pieces. I have tried.
The 1" of clearance required between the out side of the masonry chimney and any combustible material mentioned earlier.
blacktail
Minister of Fire
When I start from a cold stove I load it with more gaps for air flow like you've been doing. I can still hit 600 that way, just not for very long. I only load as pictured when loading onto coals.
My stove gets close to 700 on every reload. I wouldn't try it for the first time before you go to bed, try it in the morning when you can closely monitor it. If you pack it full you'll probably get a little bit higher temps but you will see dramatic improvements in burn time.
No I haven't. Will have to check the manual to see how to do it. The gasket looks really flat and old. Probably a good idea to replace it. They're not really expensive
darktower007
Feeling the Heat
Because i inspect several hundred chimneys a year and see 2 or 3 out of them that have required clearances
black smoke signals
Feeling the Heat
weatherguy
Minister of Fire
I loaded mine like that once since I had a bunch of shorties, shot to 700 in no time. Never again.
Fix your gasket or adjust the door so it seals tight. If it isnt tight you burn times will be low and your control will suffer
No, I think he's saying he loaded it criss-cross like you have been. That's a recipe for uncontrollable fire, there's too much exposed surface area and the fire burns fast and hot. If there are no other air control issues with your stove loading it full will give you a more manageable fire that will last a lot longer.
blacktail
Minister of Fire
It's ok that the bill comes out as long as there's resistance. It doesn't have to be locked in there solidly.
black smoke signals
Feeling the Heat
I would have a certified technician look at your fireplace and tell you if it’s safe so you can go to your insurance guy and hand him paperwork.
weatherguy
Minister of Fire
In my neck of the woods if the chimney is to code otherwise and adding an additional liner inside to that, your actually going above code which of course is no problem. In other words the existing clay liner already has the needed clearance from combustibles per code is any liner added addional is above and beyond. Now if it doesen't have the clearances or the clay liner has been compromised then is as you say. It sounds like what your saying is the code required for installation of a new liner in would be the same as a new chimney all together no matter what the condition is of the existing chimney it's going in is to code or not? Just saying, I'm not an installer. Just trying to make sense of it. Kevin
Yes if the current chimney has those clearances then insulation is not required but still very desirable. The problem is that most chimneys even many in new construction dont have the required clearances.
The clay liners mean nothing in the equation. Once a stainless liner is installed that clay liner just becomes part of the masonry structure.
I've been doing it that way since day one. It hasn't gotten out of control yet.
I saw someone post they put the wood North to South and East to West.
