Wood Gun Steel nozzle?

[68dodgeramman]

Just wondering if anyone has ordered this? I just got mine the other day and they measure 6" wide. I don't know if they sent ones for the E140 or if they are for my E100. I thought they would fit right down on the ledge of the main refractory like the original ceramic nozzles do. So I'm not sure if I should lay them on top of the main refractory and fire it up or wait till Monday to call Alternate Heating. Any info is really appreciated because it's really cold up here and she wants me to get it started ASAP Lol.

 

[avc8130]

Just wondering if anyone has ordered this? I just got mine the other day and they measure 6" wide. I don't know if they sent ones for the E140 or if they are for my E100. I thought they would fit right down on the ledge of the main refractory like the original ceramic nozzles do. So I'm not sure if I should lay them on top of the main refractory and fire it up or wait till Monday to call Alternate Heating. Any info is really appreciated because it's really cold up here and she wants me to get it started ASAP Lol.

Is AHS marketing steel nozzles now? Can you take pics?

I wonder if they put them OVER the ledges since the steel will probably expand with heat and might cause the refractory to crack.

ac

 

[infinitymike]

This must be a new option. They didn't offer it to me last year.
Pictures would be truely appreciated.

 

[infinitymike]

How long have you had your WG? Did the originals disintegrate?

 

[711mhw]

I just happened to stop in there last week on my way to MD, and saw them on a shelf. They told me that they were really for someone that had severe deterioration to the "shelf" that supports the std. "center brick" This is the reason for the extra width. I had commented that they should last forever, the response was "about the same".
I think I'll give them a try unless I make a set.

 

[Fred61]

I just happened to stop in there last week on my way to MD, and saw them on a shelf. They told me that they were really for someone that had severe deterioration to the "shelf" that supports the std. "center brick" This is the reason for the extra width. I had commented that they should last forever, the response was "about the same".
I think I'll give them a try unless I make a set.

If the ledge that your present center brick sits on has not deteriorated it surely will be unless you protect it with something. It will start crumbling just like the lips of your center bricks. Don't ruin your refractory just to experiment with them. Whomever neglected their boiler so much that this patch is needed should be burning oil.

 

[infinitymike]

Fred. What is your suggestion to protect that ledge.

 

[avc8130]

The "ledge" appears to be the Achilles heel to the lower refractory, which is a bit pricey to replace. I think what AHS has done, is simply put a steel nozzle spanning the entire gap, from the curved refractory edges. This would essentially eliminate the ledges function (holding the center bricks), but it would probably also cause them to erode whatever is left rather quick. That wouldn't really matter if they weren't being used any more.

How about a pic?

ac

 

[Fred61]

Fred. What is your suggestion to protect that ledge.

Keep using the center bricks unless they made some provision in the steel to protect the ledge. Don't know, waiting for the same photo you guys are waiting for.

 

[Fred61]

That wouldn't really matter if they weren't being used any more

The problem is when the ledge is gone erosion won't stop there, it'll keep going and the refractory is not an easily replaceable item. What happens if you experiment with the steel grate and you find that it doesn't work out at about the same time as the ledge is gone? There's no "going back".

 

[avc8130]

The problem is when the ledge is gone erosion won't stop there, it'll keep going and the refractory is not an easily replaceable item. What happens if you experiment with the steel grate and you find that it doesn't work out at about the same time as the ledge is gone? There's no "going back".

I agree. I wouldn't switch to a steel nozzle that doesn't use the ledge, unless the ledge was gone. At that point I think you are just "buying time" to put off refractory replacement.

ac

 

[Fred61]

I agree. I wouldn't switch to a steel nozzle that doesn't use the ledge, unless the ledge was gone. At that point I think you are just "buying time" to put off refractory replacement.

ac

I agree. If you want to experiment with a steel nozzle, build your own in the same configuration as your ceramic one. As I warned in a previous post, allow for expansion of the steel.

 

[avc8130]

I agree. If you want to experiment with a steel nozzle, build your own in the same configuration as your ceramic one. As I warned in a previous post, allow for expansion of the steel.

I was playing around with an online calculator, I THINK a steel nozzle would expand ~ .090" in width. The steel nozzle could be 1/8-3/16" narrower than the ledge opening and should be "safe".

ac

 

[Fred61]

I was playing around with an online calculator, I THINK a steel nozzle would expand ~ .090" in width. The steel nozzle could be 1/8-3/16" narrower than the ledge opening and should be "safe".

ac

Just don't go so narrow that the flow will leak by. That could also cause erosion. By now you can see that I place alot of value on that ledge.

 

[68dodgeramman]

Well, my ledge is not eroded badly, and when I ordered the center brick they didn't ask if it was. It just seemed that it was another option. Here are some pics of the shorter one. I think I'll have some made that fit on top of the ledge after reading your posts, thanks. Now I have another one for you; I've had water in the ash pan since I've gotten the boiler, about four years ago. I just replaced all the door seals and tightened everything where air might get in, I cleaned from the stack down. I took the fan off and the cyclone and thoroughly cleaned both. I started it last night and I immediately see water dripping from the ash pan. So this morning I went on the roof with my temp gauge and it says around 158 to 161 degrees. That's at the cap. I have about 12' to 15' of SS double walled insulated pipe running from the ceiling in the garage through the roof. And single walled SS pipe from the cyclone to the ceiling. Do you think insulating the single walled pipe will help, and if so, what do you use to do that? I'd rather not have to go out and buy all new insulated pipe now. Thanks again.

 

[Fred61]

I can't tell what the dimensions are but it appears from the photo that the stringers along the bottom will sit on the ledge. If so, that should protect it. It doesn't look like what I envisioned. Also ash should pack in beside it to seal the gap. I never licked the water in the ash pan but there has been some discussion here recently. Perhaps you can do a search and possibly work with the other Gunners on here and do some experimenting together.

 

[avc8130]

I can't tell what the dimensions are but it appears from the photo that the stringers along the bottom will sit on the ledge. If so, that should protect it. It doesn't look like what I envisioned. Also ash should pack in beside it to seal the gap. I never licked the water in the ash pan but there has been some discussion here recently. Perhaps you can do a search and possibly work with the other Gunners on here and do some experimenting together.

Wasn't at all what I was picturing either!

I'm not sure how I feel about it. The one thing I do like is that it would be super easy to fabricate in the garage. The "slot" could easily be made with a drill and cut-off wheel/grinder.

 

[avc8130]

Well, my ledge is not eroded badly, and when I ordered the center brick they didn't ask if it was. It just seemed that it was another option. Here are some pics of the shorter one. I think I'll have some made that fit on top of the ledge after reading your posts, thanks. Now I have another one for you; I've had water in the ash pan since I've gotten the boiler, about four years ago. I just replaced all the door seals and tightened everything where air might get in, I cleaned from the stack down. I took the fan off and the cyclone and thoroughly cleaned both. I started it last night and I immediately see water dripping from the ash pan. So this morning I went on the roof with my temp gauge and it says around 158 to 161 degrees. That's at the cap. I have about 12' to 15' of SS double walled insulated pipe running from the ceiling in the garage through the roof. And single walled SS pipe from the cyclone to the ceiling. Do you think insulating the single walled pipe will help, and if so, what do you use to do that? I'd rather not have to go out and buy all new insulated pipe now. Thanks again.

Were the steel nozzles cheaper than the masonry?

Have you installed them yet? Please keep us posted how they work out for you.

The water in the ash pan is from the flue gasses condensing in your connector. How cold is your return water? I had my cyclone fill with water once, but it was only when I was firing the boiler from dead cold. How is your wood?

ac

 

[goosegunner]

The nozzle in my Econoburn will be glowing red at times. I am interested to hear what the steel does and how it holds up. It would be nice to have just a plate if it could be placed on the refractory nozzle to help prolong it.

gg

 

[Fred61]

Several years back when I want over to AHONA to see the biomass operating and was exiting his boiler room I happened to trip on an object in the leaves. It was steel rods welded into a grid but looked like a pretzel. He wasn't going to tell me but he had tried to burn chips and his home made mesh didn't hold up very well.

 

[infinitymike]

Don't feel bad. Your not alone.
I get water in my ash pan also. Not enough to drip out but enough to make the ashes like mud and my pan looks like yours,
It sounds like I have a similar set up. My WG is in an 2 car garage. For the most part it is complexly uninsulated. Except I did install roxul insulation and fire rated sheetrock on the walls and ceiling around the boiler.
It did maintain 60* all last winter just from the radiant boiler heat.

I come straight off the cyclone with a 48" double wall telescoping pipe into a ceiling thimble where it connects to two 36" ss double wall pipe.

I personally think its because I am in an uninsulated garage and the pipe cools off after shut down.
Just yesterday I went on the roof and disconnected the top section of pipe. It was very clean only a thin layer of black powder, so was the other section
and the section off the cyclone is just as clean.

 

[infinitymike]

i am actually considering adding 6'-9' of pipe to get the cap 10' - 13' above the roof.
There are times it smokes alot, usually when I stir up the coals and reload, It could last for 5-10 minutes before it gasifies again
and I am thinking that it might keep the smoke from blowing right down to the ground and turning my neighborhood into a cloudy mess.

Right now the cap is about 12' above the ground so it would only be about 18-21'
I don't know if that is even enough height.

 

[muncybob]

I did have a problem with moisture in the pan, mostly when running oil. I now get a very small amount of moisture in the pan, just enough to make the bottom of the pan need a scrape to come clean. My remedy was to insulate the connecting pipe and the entire cyclone housing.

 

[mikefrommaine]

Anyone have a pic of the ceramic nozzle for a woodgun? Does it have horizontal holes in it for secondary air? Or is it pretty much the same shape?


I tried looking on google images. Infinitymikes boiler is the second image. Avc's tractor made the cut as well but no pics of the nozzle I could find.

 

[Fred61]

Anyone have a pic of the ceramic nozzle for a woodgun? Does it have horizontal holes in it for secondary air? Or is it pretty much the same shape?


I tried looking on google images. Infinitymikes boiler is the second image. Avc's tractor made the cut as well but no pics of the nozzle I could find.

Wood Gun does not have secondary air. Just one hell of a blast of primary air.