Melted BlazeKing 40

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Over a short 14 years....that's the thing. If this was a 50 year old stove, I get it
14 years is a long time of abuse. Most stoves that survive 50 years are treated well.
 
Over a short 14 years....that's the thing. If this was a 50 year old stove, I get it
It can happen in a year if the operator is a complete moron. 14 years is a long time
 
I've shown the pic to a local stove guy and he said he's never seen anything like it 28 years. His thought is that they probably got into the habit of burning two or three of those Duralogs at one time.....either that or they may have been burning some garbage in there.

I'm sorry but that stove guy does not know what he is talking about. You can put 8 of those logs in and it will still not overheat. It's a thermostat controlled air supply. As long as it's properly maintained (gaskets work) and operated (bypass closes when cat is hit enough), this just won't happen.

This was deliberate maltreatment by the stove owner.
 
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I really have no idea what the previous owner did with this stove. He had the home for 2 years and did a bunch of questionable stuff with electrical and plumbing. So that all jives with what you guys are saying about operator error. What I'm hearing you all say is that I should NOT expect this to happen with a BK...even if I had one for 14 years burning fir or pine 24/7.

As to the questions about the Tstat, I haven't tested it. I'm fairly certain the CAT is not operational. I can pull that indicator right out the top of the stop with about a 2" small diameter rod attached to, but it doesn't make contact with anything when I pull it out of set it back in.

I burn fir 24/7 and have nothing like this occurring in my BK. 77AE7C7D-4387-4283-9AF1-CC7DE0A18B5A.jpeg
 
I'm sorry but that stove guy does not know what he is talking about. You can put 8 of those logs in and it will still not overheat. It's a thermostat controlled air supply. As long as it's properly maintained (gaskets work) and operated (bypass closes when cat is hit enough), this just won't happen.

This was deliberate maltreatment by the stove owner.

Open door burning for ambiance? Or maybe just a cracked door to get wet wood to burn and then forgot to close it every time? More air got into this stove than the thermostat allowed. That air wash plate looks like 1/4” thick steel.

I know it’s Montana but what about driftwood? Or something else corrosive.

Here’s my 2012 princess with 4 cords per year for the last 10 years. Some brick erosion but the steel is great.D1B5F7FE-AD55-4B8A-BA9B-976B7F458D62.jpeg
 
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Wondering if the stove was run with the bypass open once the cat
I'm sorry but that stove guy does not know what he is talking about. You can put 8 of those logs in and it will still not overheat. It's a thermostat controlled air supply. As long as it's properly maintained (gaskets work) and operated (bypass closes when cat is hit enough), this just won't happen.

This was deliberate maltreatment by the stove owner.
IIRC Pointdexter noted that with extra dry wood that the thermostat was not able to keep up with the rapid outgassing of the wood so he stops now at a higher moisture content. Note also that Duraflame logs are wax-based. They're not the same as NIELS or Prest-Logs. They should never be used in a woodstove.
 
ok, my bad about Duraflame - I know of the sawdust logs in BKs (I tried myself) and mistakenly assumed Duraflame was similar.

I have had some very dry maple (12%) in my BK and had no trouble. Maybe it matters how long one "blazes" (chars) before dialing down the Tstat after a hot reload.
 
Wondering if the stove was run with the bypass open once the cat

IIRC Pointdexter noted that with extra dry wood that the thermostat was not able to keep up with the rapid outgassing of the wood so he stops now at a higher moisture content. Note also that Duraflame logs are wax-based. They're not the same as NIELS or Prest-Logs. They should never be used in a woodstove.
I believe poindexter’s problem was that the dry wood outgassed too fast and the cat couldn’t eat it all which resulted in visible smoke emissions. He’s a highly regulated burner so smoke is no good. I burn fir at 14% and it’s fine. Very controllable.
 
I believe poindexter’s problem was that the dry wood outgassed too fast and the cat couldn’t eat it all which resulted in visible smoke emissions. He’s a highly regulated burner so smoke is no good. I burn fir at 14% and it’s fine. Very controllable.
Yes, that's what I recall. Wasn't sure about heat levels. The theory about running with the bypass open when the cat failed sounds most plausible. Whatever it was, the stove shows evidence of abuse.
 
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I believe poindexter’s problem was that the dry wood outgassed too fast and the cat couldn’t eat it all which resulted in visible smoke emissions. He’s a highly regulated burner so smoke is no good. I burn fir at 14% and it’s fine. Very controllable.
In full disclosure, if not already evident, I'm a greenhorn when it comes to stoves, CAT stoves especially. I've been wondering about moisture content relative to controllable burn. Your post eludes to it......there has a to be an ideal range for moisture and that would also be influenced by species. We cut up blow down next to roads. Guessing I should invest in a moisture meter because beyond a super fresh blown down tree its hard to tell how seasoned it is.

What kind of range works well in a CAT stove if it's mostly fir or pine?
 
In full disclosure, if not already evident, I'm a greenhorn when it comes to stoves, CAT stoves especially. I've been wondering about moisture content relative to controllable burn. Your post eludes to it......there has a to be an ideal range for moisture and that would also be influenced by species. We cut up blow down next to roads. Guessing I should invest in a moisture meter because beyond a super fresh blown down tree its hard to tell how seasoned it is.

What kind of range works well in a CAT stove if it's mostly fir or pine?

Under 20% is all you really need to remember. For any wood.

Our fir and pine dry faster than eastern hardwoods, usually one full summer after stacking the split wood is enough but if you can get two years ahead you’ll be better off.
 
One question I have is how tall is the chimney?
 
Wondering if the stove was run with the bypass open once the cat

IIRC Pointdexter noted that with extra dry wood that the thermostat was not able to keep up with the rapid outgassing of the wood so he stops now at a higher moisture content. Note also that Duraflame logs are wax-based. They're not the same as NIELS or Prest-Logs. They should never be used in a woodstove.

We did have a guy a few years ago who melted a Princess in his basement that way (excessive draft, always ran in bypass, sometimes with the door open to get "more heat" because the basement was uninsulated).

BKs are going to be the hardest stoves to overfire due to the thermostat, but if you are sufficiently determined, you can find a way to melt down any stove.
 
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That is NOT a King 40! The KE40 was introduced in December of 2019.

Post picture of label from back of the stove, thank you.
 
That is NOT a King 40! The KE40 was introduced in December of 2019.

Post picture of label from back of the stove, thank you.
I've been waiting for you to appear!
 
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That is NOT a King 40! The KE40 was introduced in December of 2019.

Post picture of label from back of the stove, thank you.
Here's a pic of the back plate and a pic of the installed stove. The pipe runs about 10' outside and is supported with 2 bracketed rods anchoring it to the roof.
 

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Thank you. Made in May of 2007. While it is 14 years old, there are tens of thousands of the 1107's out there, that one has been a tortured stove. The rear baffle plate could be replaced, the dome guard (stainless steel) appears to be missing.

The list of causes could be as others have pointed out.....
 
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Thank you. Made in May of 2007. While it is 14 years old, there are tens of thousands of the 1107's out there, that one has been a tortured stove. The rear baffle plate could be replaced, the dome guard (stainless steel) appears to be missing.

The list of causes could be as others have pointed out.....
I had Franciso from your shop on the phone yesterday. I guess at the end of the day, I'm trying to figure out if I should replace it with another BlazeKing or look at other manufacturers. Obviously, this being my only data point, doesn't give me a lot of hope for another BlazeKing. Some of the guys on here have been helpful though. Certainly sounds like the Regency and Blaze King are comparable. Warranty and price are probably going to be the deciding factors.
 
Tough choice. But we have a thermostat, not a damper for even heat output. Others can comment lest I be scolded.
 
If you want an even heat output, a thermostat is the way to go. Or at least it makes it easier. There are other stoves with thermostats too. The VC Aspen 3 works similar as a BK from what I read.

I like my BK a lot. But in the end it's a lot of money, and if you are concerned (despite the fact that this was a misbehaving owner rather than a bad design), then you'd enjoy using your stove less, and it might be better to go for another stove.
 
I really have no idea what the previous owner did with this stove. He had the home for 2 years and did a bunch of questionable stuff with electrical and plumbing. So that all jives with what you guys are saying about operator error. What I'm hearing you all say is that I should NOT expect this to happen with a BK...even if I had one for 14 years burning fir or pine 24/7.

As to the questions about the Tstat, I haven't tested it. I'm fairly certain the CAT is not operational. I can pull that indicator right out the top of the stop with about a 2" small diameter rod attached to, but it doesn't make contact with anything when I pull it out of set it back in.
I live in the boreal forest and feed my BK sirocco a steady diet of jack pine, balsam fir and spruce. In deep winter, I run it wide open. Don't worry that your BK can't handle softwoods - it most certainly can!
 
Obviously, this being my only data point, doesn't give me a lot of hope for another BlazeKing
I think that lots of people have pointed out to you that in this instance, the damage has nothing to do with the quality of the stove and everything to do with operator error.

I was brand new to wood stoves when I bought my BK, and if doing it all over again, I would still buy a BK. Very simple to operate so long as you follow the instructions in your manual. Very hard to mess up, unless you disregard the instructions in the manual. The thermostatic control is an awesome feature. I have no other experience to recommend other brands to you, but there are lots of fellas on here who can point you to other good stoves that will suit your set-up too. I just wanted to point out that your lack of faith in the BK line based on what you see at your place is misguided.

Happy stove hunting! My wood stove is one of the best investments I've made in my home, and I couldn't imagine being without it.