2018-19 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK)

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That old article was from the early 1980s in a couple of nonepa fishers and the testing was done to test a concept different from normal operating. I’m willing to call the whole thing irrelevant.

The wood furnace people seem to love baro dampers. The furnaces have automatic intake air control so the flue damper needs to automatically respond which only a baro damper can do. Plus they use big fans and heat exchangers in the exhaust to supercool the flue gasses which affects draft variably. Even the much loved kuuma furnace is said to ship from the factory with a baro damper included!

So it’s not that a baro is bad for solid fuel burners in general but that key dampers are just better for stoves.
 
That old article was from the early 1980s in a couple of nonepa fishers and the testing was done to test a concept different from normal operating. I’m willing to call the whole thing irrelevant.

I went back & read it again.

Not only that, but it looked like they did there creosote measuring only in a short section of the stove pipe. Right above the 'devices'. So who knows what was in the chimney?

Yep, pretty irrelevant.
 
Well for me it seems that what I have here is a sticky stat. I did what the first post recommended in this thread and it worked. Basically the flapper is getting stuck somewhere during the turn down. Giving the knob a smack makes it finally close.

Runs great once that is done. How can I fix the stickiness is now the question.

Your earlier photos showed the princess insert but your signature just says princess. If you have the insert then the thermostat is totally different from the stoves in that link and there is no cover for the stat blade to stick against. There could be another stick point though and you’ll have to open it up to take a look.
 
Happy new year to everybody. Will fill up my stoves to the top tonight. Another storm is coming through for the next two days.
 

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It's still in the 50s and raining here. I heard so many people say what a bad winter it was going to be this year, but we made it through december without seeing any winter.

Another odd winter eh? A lot of that going around. Thunderstorms/lightning and a inch+ of rain here a few days back. Buddy of mine keeps chuckling as he thanks global warming;lol
 
53 deg f, doors and windows all cracked open.... so far not a bad winter at all, just need the rain to quite its 1.5" every 4/5 days.
 
8 below now high of 7 today in northern Wisconsin 5 below tonight the big King loafing along keeping the little cabin toasty warm. Strange winter here too fairly mild, one night below zero and 40 by the weekend.
 
Princess running on high with fans on high as well, 25f of class a, stove top damper full closed .05” of water column, 7 hour burns running burr oak from the middle of a 37” 300 year old tree.....hard hard wood... 4f with 12mph north west wind hitting this 1900 sq ft 2 level house, stove in lower level....

The princess is holding its own, barley!!!!! 73f and climbing ever so slowly up stairs!

These blaze Kings are unbelievable! Surprised how much more heat goes in the house instead of going up the stack when the draft is limited via key damper to the. .05 spec.


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BK insert door glass? Here are some pictures of my glass door with a large circle dead center. You can see where I stalled the combustor. I can clean the glass and circle disappears but after hot fire this circle will come back. My guess in production they use a suctioning device to set glass on just a guess. It’s no big deal just curious?
 
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Another odd winter eh? A lot of that going around. Thunderstorms/lightning and a inch+ of rain here a few days back. Buddy of mine keeps chuckling as he thanks global warming;lol

It's been bloody monsoon season here on the island. I really need to build some woodsheds this year, I have way too many tarps getting worn to shreds.

(Actually, having lived in actual monsoon territory, this is far short of a real monsoon season, but it has been really warm with tons of rain.)
 
View attachment 237150 View attachment 237149 BK insert door glass? Here are some pictures of my glass door with a large circle dead center. You can see where I stalled the combustor. I can clean the glass and circle disappears but after hot fire this circle will come back. My guess in production they use a suctioning device to set glass on just a guess. It’s no big deal just curious?

I don't have that. Why would a suction cup leave a permanent mark? Also, I don't know that stove windows are cut from large sheets, as they are not glass. (But maybe they do get cut the same way!)

Industrial glass cutters do use mineral oil. If that is baked on mineral oil, maybe you can scrub it off with vinegar and a nylon brush.
 
Princess running on high with fans on high as well, 25f of class a, stove top damper full closed .05” of water column, 7 hour burns running burr oak from the middle of a 37” 300 year old tree.....hard hard wood... 4f with 12mph north west wind hitting this 1900 sq ft 2 level house, stove in lower level....

The princess is holding its own, barley!!!!! 73f and climbing ever so slowly up stairs!

These blaze Kings are unbelievable! Surprised how much more heat goes in the house instead of going up the stack when the draft is limited via key damper to the. .05 spec.

Jeez, my princess is cranked down to low today, black box mode. 7 hour burns is crankin' !
 
Jeez, my princess is cranked down to low today, black box mode. 7 hour burns is crankin' !
Hang in there buddy, cold winds coming your way, we just dropped 5 deg in the last hour. going to feed the princess.
 
Jeez, my princess is cranked down to low today, black box mode. 7 hour burns is crankin' !
We were told here that it will be a warm winter. Whatever that means. I think that guy drink more than me.;lol
 
Hang in there buddy, cold winds coming your way, we just dropped 5 deg in the last hour. going to feed the princess.
Kenny, how is the damper working for you? What are the differences after installed? How much tending it needs?
Asking cause I will like to buy two of those stove top adapters with the damper on it, that way I don't have to modify anything just replace the adapters. I am supposed to have one but I can't find it. Possibly went to the dump.
 
Kenny, how is the damper working for you? What are the differences after installed? How much tending it needs?
Asking cause I will like to buy two of those stove top adapters with the damper on it, that way I don't have to modify anything just replace the adapters. I am supposed to have one but I can't find it. Possibly went to the dump.
Still testing, but so far the results have been positive, l picked a great weekend to install it, just about had every kind of weather from warm/humid, windy w/ rain, to cold and snow.
The biggest difference I see is that the cat probe runs hotter at a lower setting, stove loading times have been stretched to 14hr burns of useful heat (stove top thermometer consistently at 450deg)
 
Kenny, I have to admit I skipped a page or two of posts, I just can’t keep up with you guys. But how on earth are you measuring draft downstream of your damper? That really doesn’t make sense to me, and I’d almost expect it to have a reverse relationship with damper position at a location downstream of the damper.
 
Kenny, I have to admit I skipped a page or two of posts, I just can’t keep up with you guys. But how on earth are you measuring draft downstream of your damper? That really doesn’t make sense to me, and I’d almost expect it to have a reverse relationship with damper position at a location downstream of the damper.
I have no clue as to the physics of this, I did post a ton of pics showing the readings with a fire on high, damper open and damper closed both at 20" up the stack and through the cat probe hole, everything made sense damper closed = mush slower draft.
 
Kenny, I have to admit I skipped a page or two of posts, I just can’t keep up with you guys. But how on earth are you measuring draft downstream of your damper? That really doesn’t make sense to me, and I’d almost expect it to have a reverse relationship with damper position at a location downstream of the damper.

Roll on back a couple of pages, he took lots of pics so it’ll be easy to find. He confirmed that you can’t measure draft above the damper if you want to know what’s happening at the stove but chose to not pursue installing the draft sensing tube below the damper.
 
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So today I got the Ashford 25 installed!

With the help of 3 buddies we got it in.

I do have 2 small gripes and 1 complaint though.
Gripes:
1) The slide bars—- plural there was only one in the hearth.
2) There were no sheet metal screws for the flue connection in the bags. I had to run to the hardware store as I was out as well.

Complaint: I was under the impression when ordering that a flue connection collar would be present. The absence of this made it very difficult to attach the very thick insulated liner. It looked like Freddy Kruger put in my block off plates as I had to cut it so many times due to the awkward angel of the SS liner and BK connection ring.

The manual even states it’s present... but apparently on the new models it’s omitted. The manual needs to be updated ASAP.

Hopefully I’ll have it fully assembled and burning soon!


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If you want to accurately measure pressure (manometer) you would need to install the pitot tube below the damper. But if you were measuring velocity (anemometer) then it wouldn’t matter the location, above or below the damper?

Does that make sense? !!!
 
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