This is a general discussion of stove temperature / catalyst and general performance. Plus a great place for @arnermd to put his grafts
2026/27 VC performance discussion thread
- Thread starter Woodsplitter67
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I'm working on some gaskets. Took out the glass and put them in white vinegar. They are super clear now. I'll probably put the stove back together Sunday.
Performance should be super awesome come the first fire.. lol
Performance should be super awesome come the first fire.. lol
If you don't have graphs to prove it, does it count?
I'm being super optimistic.. lol..
I'm hoping the fire gods are with me this year
BTSS
New Member
Today's burn, just enough to bump the house up from 60 to 68 or so and take the chill off.
High 40s and rainy outside.
Stove has been running like a dream, holding temps steady and pretty long burn times for how little wood I'm putting in.
2pm to 5pm was one medium sized split.
We'll see how it does as the weather gets colder.
Higher stove temps and lower outside temps might bring back some of the overheating issues from last season.
With heating oil prices what they are, I'll be really depending on the stove to behave.
Rutroh! @arnermd - let the battle of the graphs begin!
Looks like some great burn temp and times, congrats! I'm hoping to do a seasonal break-in burn this weekend.
Looks like some great burn temp and times, congrats! I'm hoping to do a seasonal break-in burn this weekend.
BTSS
New Member
Seeing the graphs that he posted showed me what was possible. I had to step my game up.
It is incredible to see what is possible with the 2040cat-c through these graphs.
Are your glasses doubled? I replaced 2 recently and my door have doubled glass with a wire wrapped in a gasket between them.
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Had a good fire Saturday morning. Was 35 degrees out so draft was good
Got the stove/stovepipe up to temperature, closed the bypass and went right to 500 and lit the cat off went to 900 then I cut the air and she settled in at 1300
Stove is running good did some gaskets this past September.. the cat was one I was thinking was shot. Apparently not
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Got the stove/stovepipe up to temperature, closed the bypass and went right to 500 and lit the cat off went to 900 then I cut the air and she settled in at 1300
Stove is running good did some gaskets this past September.. the cat was one I was thinking was shot. Apparently not
Still getting up to speed here, folks.
A quick background: I've been running a Defiant 1945 for about 20 years and am trying to decide whether to replace it with a 1975 or simply accept shorter burn times caused by the warped internal components, particularly the upper fireback assembly. I recently added a second magnetic thermometer (one on the griddle and one on the stovepipe), and I'm consistently seeing about a 200°F difference between the two readings.
For now, these questions are focused on keeping the old stove running:
I understand this is typically caused by excessive chimney draft, which I generally have.
I seem to recall that it's underneath the stove, and access may be blocked by the lower heat shield I have installed. I've never actually inspected it, so for all I know it could be partially stuck open or obstructed by debris.
A quick background: I've been running a Defiant 1945 for about 20 years and am trying to decide whether to replace it with a 1975 or simply accept shorter burn times caused by the warped internal components, particularly the upper fireback assembly. I recently added a second magnetic thermometer (one on the griddle and one on the stovepipe), and I'm consistently seeing about a 200°F difference between the two readings.
For now, these questions are focused on keeping the old stove running:
1. Digital catalyst thermometer
I just learned today that there's an aftermarket digital thermometer available for monitoring catalyst temperature. From what I've read here, it seems like something that should have been standard equipment.- Does this replace the factory secondary-air probe assembly, or does it work alongside it?
- Can someone reply with an Amazon link if it's available there?
- It looks like the unit requires external power. How are people routing and protecting the power cord around a hot wood stove?
2. Secondary air flap rattling
When the stove is warm and fully dampered down and the thermostat handle is set to "off" (minimum air setting), the secondary air flap rattles constantly.I understand this is typically caused by excessive chimney draft, which I generally have.
- If I simply want to stop the rattling, could I remove the secondary air cover plate, block off the opening, and secure the flap in place?
- Has anyone tried this, and are there any downsides I'm not considering?
3. Primary air valve assembly location
Can someone remind me where the primary air valve assembly is located on this stove?I seem to recall that it's underneath the stove, and access may be blocked by the lower heat shield I have installed. I've never actually inspected it, so for all I know it could be partially stuck open or obstructed by debris.
- Where exactly is it located?
- Is there a straightforward way to verify that it's opening and closing properly?
I'm running the Alber AT100 W the the 6inch K type thermo coupler 6" in not sure where I got the auber but the thermo coupler came from thermo works make sure you get 2k degrees
Your stovepipe temp and stovetop will never match temperature
My magnets are run independently. The stove top is looked at so I don't over heat and warp the stove. The stovepipe is run to make sure I have enough draft to light off the catalyst
The stove is ran to heat the house what ever the heat demand is at that time. It could be 400 degrees. After the stove is running AKA up to temperature stove top and stove pipe the stove is basically ran by the cat probe and the heat needed. The air gets adjusted for what the house needs and I strictly look at the auber. Once the cat temperatures dip to around 800or so I'll probably start thinking of a reload.
If you really want some in-depth how to you can go back to a couple of the older threads and sometime around December I do a how to for people who are newer go back to 23 and 24 and Im not sure if I did one in 25
Just an FYI this is a performance thread. Any specific questions on your stove you can start you own thread. The mods wanted this specific thread and separate threads because it was hard for people to locate information. A thread like this would be well over 100 pages
Your stovepipe temp and stovetop will never match temperature
My magnets are run independently. The stove top is looked at so I don't over heat and warp the stove. The stovepipe is run to make sure I have enough draft to light off the catalyst
The stove is ran to heat the house what ever the heat demand is at that time. It could be 400 degrees. After the stove is running AKA up to temperature stove top and stove pipe the stove is basically ran by the cat probe and the heat needed. The air gets adjusted for what the house needs and I strictly look at the auber. Once the cat temperatures dip to around 800or so I'll probably start thinking of a reload.
If you really want some in-depth how to you can go back to a couple of the older threads and sometime around December I do a how to for people who are newer go back to 23 and 24 and Im not sure if I did one in 25
Just an FYI this is a performance thread. Any specific questions on your stove you can start you own thread. The mods wanted this specific thread and separate threads because it was hard for people to locate information. A thread like this would be well over 100 pages
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