Blower project suggestions....Jotul Oslo

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My Oslo heats my home

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Sep 20, 2010
1,584
South Shore, MA
Looking for some insight on my new project, a custom blower for the Jotul stove.

My intentions are to install the rear heat sheild and find a blower that will produce about 1250 rpm (200 cfm)
installed on the bottom of the heat shield and move some warm air up into the room and hopefully
into the other main rooms on the same floor as the stove. Cost is an issue and after hearing the prices of what the manufacturer
is asking for I knew this is what I had to do.

I have read some year old threads (more ralative to the blower) on some simular situations and have gotten some great direction for my
project. I would appreciate any feedback from any other blower users and their projects with "home made" blowers.


Thanks...
 
My Oslo heats my home said:
Looking for some insight on my new project, a custom blower for the Jotul stove.

My intentions are to install the rear heat sheild and find a blower that will produce about 1250 rpm (200 cfm)
installed on the bottom of the heat shield and move some warm air up into the room and hopefully
into the other main rooms on the same floor as the stove. Cost is an issue and after hearing the prices of what the manufacturer
is asking for I knew this is what I had to do.

I have read some year old threads (more ralative to the blower) on some simular situations and have gotten some great direction for my
project. I would appreciate any feedback from any other blower users and their projects with "home made" blowers.


Thanks...

i am also looking to do something like this to my jotul 400. looked at a few things, and might just go with 1 or 2 muffin fans strategically placed
 
Don't omit where the combustion air intake is when you place the fan. Unless you're using an OAK, I would think one would want to be cautious mounting a fan in close proximity to the stove's intake. It could present a burn/draft problem.
 
Have you tried moving the air from the room with the stove to other parts of the house by using a fan on the floor pointed towards the stove . . . I'm heating most of an 1,800 square foot house with my Oslo using this technique . . . it may not look as sexy as an installed blower, but using a fan I already have is pretty darned cheap . . . and it works.
 
CountryBoy19 said:
devinsdad said:
I'm pretty sure this is the blower for my stove at a shockingly lower price.https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=3608011618161040&item=16-1375&catname=electric

Hmmm... are you living overseas somewhere???

That is a 230 VAC 50 hz motor. Household power in the U.S. is 110 VAC 60 Hz. This means when you try to use that motor here in the states you're going to let the magic smoke out of it and it'll stop working.

Nope- not living overseas just a dumbass :red:
 
Frostbit said:
Don't omit where the combustion air intake is when you place the fan. Unless you're using an OAK, I would think one would want to be cautious mounting a fan in close proximity to the stove's intake. It could present a burn/draft problem.

Thanks Frostbit for the heads up. I received some info from another member with regards to that as well. I think, as it was put to me, if I keep the fan at 100 cfm (approx. 1/2 speed) I can keep the draft hole from being affected. The other member is a Castine user and has made corrections enough to keep the stove temp up and not have to fan affect too much of the stove temps. Will give it a try when I find a fan that will fit the application.

:)
 
firefighterjake said:
Have you tried moving the air from the room with the stove to other parts of the house by using a fan on the floor pointed towards the stove . . . I'm heating most of an 1,800 square foot house with my Oslo using this technique . . . it may not look as sexy as an installed blower, but using a fan I already have is pretty darned cheap . . . and it works.

Hey Jake, Thanks for the input. I have seen alot of great posts from you on many subjects...good stuff.
I recently installed a heatshield on the rear of the Oslo to create a barrier to collect warm air, the blower idea was next.
Now that Im leaning towards a fan that can be mounted on the bottom of the shield forcing the air up, I can move
the heat from room to room from the same source. At night I have a ceiling mounted fan that pushes warm air
to the 2nd floor when we sleep. The firebox gets filled and we choke it out. By the time 7 am comes round we
have enough embers to get her going again.

:)
 
looking up/ rigging/ several trips to hardware store/ cursing/ paying for all the misc parts = probably more than you would pay to get the appropriate blower/ heatshield unit.
 
GLO Summit,
I thought the same things when I started this project too. Thats why I'm leaning towards someone elses experience
and know how. The heatshield is factory and the blower is a recommended part. I'm sure I'll be off to the hardware
store for something when all this comes together.
 
Instead of having a heat shield on the back of my hearth-mounted stove, I insulated the back of my exterior masonry fireplace and then installed the heat shield over the insulation. I ran the heat shield from the fireplace floor to the block off plate. Then I have a small cheapo fan that blows air around one side of the stove into the fireplace, behind the stove, and forces the hot air out into the room. Works great and it was cheap to install.

See the pics at: https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/44303/
 
No, it would just spin a little bit faster.

Use a 60hz clock in a place that has 50hz and you loose 10 mins every hour.

Household power in the US is 240v 60hz that is split on 2 legs for 120v 60hz to most of the branch circuits.

CountryBoy19 said:
devinsdad said:
I'm pretty sure this is the blower for my stove at a shockingly lower price.https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=3608011618161040&item=16-1375&catname=electric

Hmmm... are you living overseas somewhere???

That is a 230 VAC 50 hz motor. Household power in the U.S. is 110 VAC 60 Hz. This means when you try to use that motor here in the states you're going to let the magic smoke out of it and it'll stop working.
 
NATE379 said:
No, it would just spin a little bit faster.

Use a 60hz clock in a place that has 50hz and you loose 10 mins every hour.

Household power in the US is 240v 60hz that is split on 2 legs for 120v 60hz to most of the branch circuits.

CountryBoy19 said:
devinsdad said:
I'm pretty sure this is the blower for my stove at a shockingly lower price.https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=3608011618161040&item=16-1375&catname=electric

Hmmm... are you living overseas somewhere???

That is a 230 VAC 50 hz motor. Household power in the U.S. is 110 VAC 60 Hz. This means when you try to use that motor here in the states you're going to let the magic smoke out of it and it'll stop working.
And how many people conveniently have 220 power ran to a location near their stove? Not very many. So he would most likely have to run a 220 circuit to his stove, and I can tell you from experience that you're not going to be able to easily pull 220 wire through a household wall. So that leaves you with 110. You try to run a 230 VAC motor on 110 and you're going to burn it up. I'm not an idiot, I was just giving a simple reply without going into all the details. I didn't really think anybody needed a lecture on electricity and how motors work (yes, I know how motors work, I'm an engineer) so I didn't go into the fine details, just pointed out why that motor wasn't going to work.
 
My Oslo heats my home said:
firefighterjake said:
Have you tried moving the air from the room with the stove to other parts of the house by using a fan on the floor pointed towards the stove . . . I'm heating most of an 1,800 square foot house with my Oslo using this technique . . . it may not look as sexy as an installed blower, but using a fan I already have is pretty darned cheap . . . and it works.

Hey Jake, Thanks for the input. I have seen alot of great posts from you on many subjects...good stuff.
I recently installed a heatshield on the rear of the Oslo to create a barrier to collect warm air, the blower idea was next.
Now that Im leaning towards a fan that can be mounted on the bottom of the shield forcing the air up, I can move
the heat from room to room from the same source. At night I have a ceiling mounted fan that pushes warm air
to the 2nd floor when we sleep. The firebox gets filled and we choke it out. By the time 7 am comes round we
have enough embers to get her going again.

:)

I'm pretty cheap . . . I still vote to try the fan for a while before you buy/build a blower. I too have the rear heat shield and I think you might find that by using the fan and the rear heat shield you will accomplish some of what you want to do as you will end up with a "natural" air current as the cool air hits the stove and then rises naturally (and with the rear heat shield I think you'll find it will rise quite nicely in the rear) . . . using a fan may not be as efficient, but it should be a lot cheaper.

That said . . . it sounds like doing so should not be a large expense . . . I mean . . . who am I to talk . . . I bought a chunk of soapstone for a topper to experiment with, right? ;)
 
+2 on a small household fan. We have a ceiling fan and place a small fan blowing towards the stove that shoots warm air out from behind the rear sheild. Thats all a blower is going to do anyway.. its cheaper and less of a headache.
 
Thanks Jake for the update, worst case I will use a portable fan if I don't get to the project right away. A chunk of soapstone huh? Love that stone for counter tops, maybe someday I'll have some... :)
 
Well like my brother says (who is also an engineer)... Engineers are just overpaid idiots! I didn't need to go to school to figure out how to do wiring or how motors work.

I'm not sure where your 220 and 110 come from, those are European standards. In the US it is 240v and 120v.

That blower is made for in a commercial kitchen which would have 240v for most of the stuff if not 480v 3 phase.



CountryBoy19 said:
NATE379 said:
No, it would just spin a little bit faster.

Use a 60hz clock in a place that has 50hz and you loose 10 mins every hour.

Household power in the US is 240v 60hz that is split on 2 legs for 120v 60hz to most of the branch circuits.

CountryBoy19 said:
devinsdad said:
I'm pretty sure this is the blower for my stove at a shockingly lower price.https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=3608011618161040&item=16-1375&catname=electric

Hmmm... are you living overseas somewhere???

That is a 230 VAC 50 hz motor. Household power in the U.S. is 110 VAC 60 Hz. This means when you try to use that motor here in the states you're going to let the magic smoke out of it and it'll stop working.
And how many people conveniently have 220 power ran to a location near their stove? Not very many. So he would most likely have to run a 220 circuit to his stove, and I can tell you from experience that you're not going to be able to easily pull 220 wire through a household wall. So that leaves you with 110. You try to run a 230 VAC motor on 110 and you're going to burn it up. I'm not an idiot, I was just giving a simple reply without going into all the details. I didn't really think anybody needed a lecture on electricity and how motors work (yes, I know how motors work, I'm an engineer) so I didn't go into the fine details, just pointed out why that motor wasn't going to work.
 
NATE379 said:
Well like my brother says (who is also an engineer)... Engineers are just overpaid idiots! I didn't need to go to school to figure out how to do wiring or how motors work.

I'm not sure where your 220 and 110 come from, those are European standards. In the US it is 240v and 120v.

That blower is made for in a commercial kitchen which would have 240v for most of the stuff if not 480v 3 phase.
I didn't need to go to school to figure out the basics either. Geeze I made my own dc motor out of tin, coated wire, 2 magnets, a nail, and a battery when I was 7. I could probably tell you more about motors than you could me, and electrical engineering isn't even my major.

Overpaid idiots? Seems to me that you're taking a pretty big leap there. You have no clue what engineers really do if you think they're overpaid idiots. And if your brother thinks he is an overpaid idiot then maybe he should get a new job because he obviously doesn't feel that he has much self-worth. I happen to have a very gratifying job; my job saves thousands of our soldier's lives every year.

On the voltage figures maybe you should learn a bit more about electricity before you go insulting people. 120/240 is the nominal transformer voltage but you're getting close to 110/220 at the receptacle.

"nominal voltage in USA is defined in the following manner:

* 120 volts is the voltage at the transformer
* 115 volts is the voltage at the panel (voltage drop losses in the cable from the transformer to the panel)
* 110 volts is the voltage at the receptacle (voltage drop losses in the cable from the panel to the receptacle) "

With all that said... you're stilling missing the entire point of my first post. The op was asking about a blower, somebody mistakenly (albeit a simple mistake) pointed him to a blower that wasn't going to be very easy to use in his application. I simply pointed out that it probably wouldn't work very well for the OP's purpose unless he was in Europe where 230 VAC 50 hz is the common power source and therefore he would easily be able to get that power to his stove blower.

I don't care if the blower was meant to be used in the freaking space shuttle, it was suggested for use as a blower on a stove and it's just not going to be practical for that use. Saying that it's supposed to be used for something else doesn't mean a thing regarding it's suggested use and it doesn't add anything to the thread. The point is that the OP likely doesn't have 230 vac 50 hz or 220 vac 60 hz power near his stove and it's not worth the hassle to route that power to his stove; it would defeat the purpose of trying to save money by purchasing that motor.

And why would you even bring up a commercial kitchen? What does a commercial kitchen have to do with adding a blower to a stove? And why do we care if that commercial kitchen has 480 V 3-phase? Does bring this up magically get that power source to his stove?

Do you see my point now?
 
Did you read the product info, says "Built for use in commercial frying equipment."

That is where I got the commercial kitchen from.
 
So, why would the OP want to fry his house?
 
Ding! Fries are done. ;) :)
 
This thread needs a group hug guys.. awwwww.. thats better. Everyone happy again?
 
logger said:
This thread needs a group hug guys.. awwwww.. thats better. Everyone happy again?

Talk about another subject going on a tangent....put up your dukes fellas
 
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