DIY Fix harman distribution blower without replacing!

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Ryhder

New Member
Mar 18, 2018
1
Northwest Connecticut
Hello , after having a distribution blower failure on my Harman XXV I decided to tear it down and attempt to repair whatever may broken inside, I searched for any info on repair / rebuilding the electric motor but found only suggestions to replace it. In the spirit of saving $200 and possibly saving someone else $200, I decided to share my experience after I repaired the problem. Ok let's begin:

Problem : distribution fan not running, stove surface temps higher than normal

Status: all setting on highest levels, all lights in side panel illuminated (except igniter) no trouble codes indicated , 1 full day of no distribution blower.

Issues found : blower fan difficult to turn by hand , fails to turn on when switched to "test " mode

OK so out comes the fan.

At this point I should have began photographing, I did not. I may create a drawing to better help explain , or perhaps disassemble my stove for the purpose of teaching.

I digress,
Once the fan assembly is on the bench remove the fans from the centrally located motor. The fan housings must have a locking tab bent out of the way, and then they can be turned with a small amount of force to line up the 3 notches and tabs and then pulled straight off.

You will now have the motor with the square plastic " male" pieces pressed on to each end of the central spinning shaft. Don't worry they pull off easily with a little pressure from a flathead screwdriver.

Remove the 2 torx headed long screws that hold the motor together. The aluminum side plates can be removed now and the internal " drum" can be removed. Keep track of any spacers and their order as things come apart .

At this point you have the 1/4 inch thick shiny spinning shaft with its electromagnetic drum or metal drum in the center . (There is also a brass bushing on each side of the drum) Don't get caught up in the terminology, we're going to call these two the "rod" and the "drum".

This is where my fan had the issue. The drum had been bonded or glued to the shaft at the factory and now the bond had failed. The shaft could be nocked out of the drum and the shaft was blue and discolored.

So what is happening here? My guess was that once powered up , the drum would spin on the shaft and the fans would not spin, only friction would be created on the inside of the drum. Bad . Like a bicycle with no teeth on the sprockets.

So my simple solution to this was a series of dimples / dents on the shaft to give it something to hold on to . Take care not to bend the shaft obviously. But I used a hardened pin and a hammer to dent it in many places ( maybe 10 ). You only want to hit the area that will be inside the drum so be aware. Once the shaft is nice and ugly it can be pressed back into the drum . This should be a much tighter fit now . Mine was able to push in by hand with decent force and it seems to have been enough to bite in. The brass bushings also can be bonded to the shaft but once you are finished, the whole shaft and drum assembly should be one piece. At this point I decided to put the whole thing in the chuck of a drill and polish the outside of the drum. I do not have a great knowledge of brushless electric motors so this polishing may not have been nessicary or helpful , but that's what I did.

Now you can put your spacers and aluminum side plates back on and you have a motor. From this point on you should be able to spin the motor easily with your fingers and it should feel like a fan should.

Reassemble!

Note : if your fan suffered some type of electrical failure like burned wires or you can see something else has gone wrong while taking things apart then this may not be your only fix . My fan felt like it had a bad bearing but upon inspection I was surprised to find no bearings but this to be the problem instead. Give it a try before you spend 200 on a new one , this may be your problem , for about 1.5 hours of tinkering and use of baisic caveman hand tools this repair was all I needed.

Hope this helps keep you and your family warm in a pinch! Post any questions and if some has a junk fan to disassemble , the pictures would be worth 1000 words
 
So everything Ryhder just said I did as far as removing cages and taking motor apart.
My issues started as the blower stopped and yes stove was getting hot.
What Ryhder described about what the motor was doing is the same with mine....ONLY... light on control would stay lit but blower not running/spinning. It definitely had resistance when trying to spin it by hand.
I did the same by pulling motor apart and somehow freed it up because now it spun freely by hand. Put it back together and bench tested which ran fine. Installed back into stove. Ran "TEST" mode and worked. Took it out of test mode to turn on and same thing....light on control panel but blower would not to on. You can feel the mtr a bit like it was trying to turn on.
From "HI/LO" rocker switch I had continuity to blower mtr., I removed rocker switch and all three terminals had continuity in each position so I know rocker switch is good. Rocker switch middle terminal #2 had continuity going to control board.
I really cannot turn stove on to go through cycle/s to check voltage from board to rocker because I'll smoke house out.
Is there anything else I can check or steer me in that direction?
I did order a new blower because at the time it was binding up as Ryhder and I mentioned. I'm just not sure it's the blower motor or not. It'll be in next week, so in the meantime I'm scratching my head on this.
Stove is an Accentra 2 FS. Earlier model as it does have the HI/LO rocker. She's a bit older. I already changed out Combustion mtr and Pressure switch as these both have crapped out within the past month. So I guess now everything is starting to go.
So, blower mtr is free spinning; runs in test mode but not "on" position AND light is lit in the "on" position.
 
Have dissembled and cleaned tangential blowers. The shaft is a press fit, must not have been made very well, but your "dimpling" may last quite a while. If you have to do it again, use some loctite sleeve or other retaining compound, they make several products for such situations. Generally these blowers refuse to start, or run slow because of dry bushings, or burnt lubricant on shafts, or dirt buildup between rotor and windings/cage. If you run too long, windings will burn. So, if you can spin freely by hand, stove off, but is tight both ways/directions when powered, windings are probably bad.
 
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Have dissembled and cleaned tangential blowers. The shaft is a press fit, must not have been made very well, but your "dimpling" may last quite a while. If you have to do it again, use some loctite sleeve or other retaining compound, they make several products for such situations. Generally these blowers refuse to start, or run slow because of dry bushings, or burnt lubricant on shafts, or dirt buildup between rotor and windings/cage. If you run too long, windings will burn. So, if you can spin freely by hand, stove off, but is tight both ways/directions when powered, windings are probably bad.
Could not spin freely by hand at first, but control light for blower was on. This is when I shut stove down and pulled blower out followed by removing rotor out of mtr to inspect. Possibly all the above things u mentioned because once I put rotor back in mtr it spun freely; back together and bench test; all good until mounted back in stove. Works in Test mode but not when called for.
I do know that when blower stopped working the other night the stove was on for quite sometime. So the stove was running but the blower was not because of it being bound up (not freely turning). So it's very possible one of the windings did burn.
I just ordered a new unit ($345.) and will be in next wk., obviously I want to make sure that's the problem which is why I was checking Other things, ie. checking voltage to blower mtr., HI/LO rocker switch. Just wanted to see if there was anything else I can check while stove is away from wall opened up. Thought others May have had this issue and it being a known issue.
For now if there is nothing else I can check I'll go with a burnt winding/s.
thnx.!
 
Personally I would have got the aftermarket blower for 109.
Wasn't aware there were afermarket blowers. So much for customer service as they could've mentioned it too me.
Anyway, here I am and after picking up blower and finally installing it. I went through the test cycle and it worked; and worked on HI/LO rocker. Turned stove on and waited for it to ignite which it did and blower light comes on once again but blower not working.
Anyone out here know what I can go to next?
I really don't see anything on schematic telling me what turns blower on. Could it be the Stove/Room Temp rectifier knob?? It works to turn stove off/on though.
 
Im afraid Bob is correct.. the first time the motor went bad it got hot and seized it drew more amperage through the small circuits on the board and more than likely burn out the Triac or opto or both.
 
Did you check for voltage at the motor terminals to verify the board is not sending power to it? Maybe a wire came loose?
 
Hello.

Up, here I added pics needed by the first post. Enjoy.