First 2 Days with Ashford 20

[msnell]

I’ve just had the Ashford 20 installed a couple days ago and had a few questions for the BK group here.

One is that my bypass handle fell off in my hand. I was able to slide it back in place, but it seems way too easy to come off to be designed this way. Is there adhesive or something that maybe came loose ?

I’m also wondering about first fires odor/smoke. I’ll post a video here in a second. But the first hour or so I was visibly seeing smoke come off the stove along the strong smell. I expected the odor , but not to see it like this. Have others seen the same thing? (Also new double wall pipe so maybe that’s part of it).

Lastly, do you all recommend putting in a thermometer on flue?

 

[msnell]

 

[stoveliker]

Yes, my basement had a blue haze as well in the first few fires.
And yes, a flue probe thermometer is good to have.

Don't know about the bypass handle

 

[Murray01]

Both Princesses I have owned the bypass handle come off.

Had lots of stink from a new installation, no smoke that I noticed. If it did smoke I wouldn’t worry about it unless the smoke doesn’t stop after the break in period.

A flue probe is a personal decision. I don’t have one, some do. I can see the argument on both sides of the fence.

 

[Dieselhead]

Smoke is normal. You will smell it each time your stove reaches a new high temperature. My kings bypass handle comes right off too. I’d assume it’s the norm on your stove too. If you’re going to do a flue thermometer be sure it’s a probe style, not a magnetic one assuming you are using the recommended double wall stove pipe.

 

[kborndale]

Both Princesses I have owned the bypass handle come off.

Had lots of stink from a new installation, no smoke that I noticed. If it did smoke I wouldn’t worry about it unless the smoke doesn’t stop after the break in period.

A flue probe is a personal decision. I don’t have one, some do. I can see the argument on both sides of the fence.

What is the argument against having a flue probe?

 

[Murray01]

What is the argument against having a flue probe?

Wires sticking out the back of the stove pipe, no 120V receptacle near by, somewhere to put the temperature monitor, getting all the holes lined up after a disassembly.

Maybe argument wasn’t the right word? Some considerations when deciding if a flue thermometer is right for you would have been a better way to word the response.

I’m not saying having a flue thermometer is a bad thing.

 

[stoveliker]

Those are valid concerns for an Auber probe. (As is cost)
Hence I have this

 

[Murray01]

Do stove owners with a flue thermometer set the burn rate to keep the flue temps in the optimal zone?

 

[stoveliker]

I don't; gotta trust the cat doing its job.
What I do use it for is for dialing down timing,.and for bypass engaging upon a cold start.
More info about the state of the burn.

 

[msnell]

I don't; gotta trust the cat doing its job.
What I do use it for is for dialing down timing,.and for bypass engaging upon a cold start.
More info about the state of the burn.

That was going to be my follow up question as well. Is it mostly just an additional metric to have and as a safety . Or would I expect to actually use the flue temp as an everyday part of using stove?

Do you look for “optimal” flue temp + “active zone” cat temp before closing bypass on starting new fire? Do those two things generally happen at close to the same time?

 

[Murray01]

I don't; gotta trust the cat doing its job.
What I do use it for is for dialing down timing,.and for bypass engaging upon a cold start.
More info about the state of the burn.

Make sense. I’ve been debating about getting one, I’m sure I’m running my flue too cold so I sweep more frequently than I probably need to.

 

[stoveliker]

Yes, it's additional data.
The flue probe gets up in temp quicker than the cat.probe.
If I close the bypass when my flue is 550, and the cat.still far from the active range, it starts glowing immediately.

Also when I push the stove if it's really cold out, I can see when the flue gets colder,. making me put a split on the coals after raking them to the front for some additional heat and quicker empty bos for a full reload.

 

[Tron]

Those are valid concerns for an Auber probe. (As is cost)
Hence I have this

I have the same. Works well to make sure not to let the flue temperature get too high on startup and as an indicator on when the stove is ready to be turned down and for the bypass to be closed.

 

[Tron]

Do stove owners with a flue thermometer set the burn rate to keep the flue temps in the optimal zone?

No, you should set the burn rate depending on your heating needs. It's the stove's job to keep your home comfortable, not bake you out of it just because you think the flue temperatures are too low.
When it's cruising flue temperatures in my case are mostly at the upper end of the yellow zone.

 

[Tron]

Do you look for “optimal” flue temp + “active zone” cat temp before closing bypass on starting new fire? Do those two things generally happen at close to the same time?

Not always. I admit to closing the bypass when the flue temperature approaches the red zone, in this case the cat thermometer is oftentimes a bit below the active zone. But that doesn't matter, the cat thermometer lags anyway, and when hot gases stream through the cat, it catches immediately (even when the cat thermometer says something different).

 

[tabner]

Ditto all the comments above. I have the condar flue probe, i think they're like $15. Drill a quick hole in the front of the double wall, and it's great to have. On these Ashfords a stove top temp gauge is pretty much useless, because of the cast iron jacket around the stove, so i like having the Flue probe as a second data point to the Cat temp gauge. I also definitely close bypass before cat gauge is fully active. I usually do cold starts with just newspaper and super dry kindling, if i don't close the bypass when the flue probe is at 400/500 i get flames shooting right through the bypass up the stove pipe - makes me nervous. The cat always kicks right off since my kindling is so dry and the flue gasses are already approaching 500.
I also have the Ashford 20, love it, great little stove. Where you at in northern VT? i grew up in Irasburg/Barton.

 

[msnell]

I'm in Elmore, VT.

I'm planning on installing a flue probe in the next couple days. I can't help but stress a little seeing the cat temp gauge go so high so easily, even though I see many people here saying that's very normal with a brand new BK. I also intend to do a chimney sweep soon and while I'm at it measure the exact length of the full chimney.. I believe it's around 20-22' total (which seems to be a little longer than average). Between the longer chimney and very short OAK, it does seem to me like the draft is quite strong. But its maybe hard to judge because I can only compare it to my previous stove.

I appreciate hearing ideas like considering "wide open" to be something other than "6 o'clock" on the knob. I wonder if I'll come to practice that as well as time goes by and I get the hang of using this stove in this house. Also still waiting on delivery of the fan unit, which I'll be curious to see how that helps distribute heat (and also how loud it is?).

I'm still working off the smell a little bit a week into using it, but beyond that I've been extremely happy with the performance. Life altering to be able to leave the stove for 8+ hours and be able to add wood without a fresh restart. My wife doesn't love seeing the black corners in the glass, but it does seem so far like it's not getting worse overall. A little worse after a long run on "low" and a little better after some time on med-high

 

[Murray01]

As you gain confidence and practice running the stove it will get second nature. You will look at the weather forecast for the day and know instinctively what species of wood to add, how much to load and once the initial burn is done where to set the thermostat dial.

 

[stoveliker]

I think draft will not be weak, may be on the strong side, but I think it should be manageable with the thermostat,. especially if you don't run at 6 o'clock.

Once you get dialed in a bit, what are your burn times (for what wood and a pic of the load) when you run (very) low? That will help tell us if the draft may be too high.

I don't know about the fan noise (don't have one). It will help push the heat out farther.

 

[Highbeam]

I use the probe meter a lot. I have a mechanical condar in the house BK stove and a digital auber in the shop noncat stove. Both work well but the auber is more responsive. The condar looks better and has been very dependable.

There is a lot of value in being able to read these meters from a distance. Like on the couch, I can see that everything is proper at a glance.

 

[msnell]

I think draft will not be weak, may be on the strong side, but I think it should be manageable with the thermostat,. especially if you don't run at 6 o'clock.

Once you get dialed in a bit, what are your burn times (for what wood and a pic of the load) when you run (very) low? That will help tell us if the draft may be too high.

I don't know about the fan noise (don't have one). It will help push the heat out farther.

So I messed up drilling my probe hole and let the bit pull me through both walls when I was trying to get the 1/4” hole in outside wall. So the 3/16 probe is going through a slightly too big hole now on inner wall of 2 wall pipe. Is this cause for concern? I’m sure it’s not ideal. But these pipes aren’t meant to be air tight anyways. And the outer hole is the proper size .

Also wondering if there’s anything wrong with scooping hot ashes down into stoves built in container and leaving them there to cool down for a day before bringing outside.

 

[Dieselhead]

So I messed up drilling my probe hole and let the bit pull me through both walls when I was trying to get the 1/4” hole in outside wall. So the 3/16 probe is going through a slightly too big hole now on inner wall of 2 wall pipe. Is this cause for concern? I’m sure it’s not ideal. But these pipes aren’t meant to be air tight anyways. And the outer hole is the proper size .

Also wondering if there’s anything wrong with scooping hot ashes down into stoves built in container and leaving them there to cool down for a day before bringing outside.

I wonder if you can get crafty with some tin foil to make the probe fit tighter?

As far as the ash goes you have to remove them as soon as scooped. Co and radiating heat to the floor below are the concerns there.

 

[Highbeam]

Bummer on the oversized hole. If the meter stays in place and you're okay with the aesthetics then I don't think that the extra 1/16" of an inch ellipse is a big deal. You don't have much choice here other than replacing the whole pipe or filling this hole with a big screw and drilling another. Neither is a very good option. Is it wobbly? facing pretty much straight out?

Maybe fatten up the shaft with some jbweld or a few wraps of metal tape. Even when done correctly it's not a tight fit.

Dump the ash pan immediately. The poison gasses are my reason. I use the ash pan and find it pretty decent, ash dust is reduced a lot compared to shoveling into a bucket.

 

[msnell]

Bummer on the oversized hole. If the meter stays in place and you're okay with the aesthetics then I don't think that the extra 1/16" of an inch ellipse is a big deal. You don't have much choice here other than replacing the whole pipe or filling this hole with a big screw and drilling another. Neither is a very good option. Is it wobbly? facing pretty much straight out?

Maybe fatten up the shaft with some jbweld or a few wraps of metal tape. Even when done correctly it's not a tight fit.

Dump the ash pan immediately. The poison gasses are my reason. I use the ash pan and find it pretty decent, ash dust is reduced a lot compared to shoveling into a bucket.

The outside wall of pipe is flawless. Eyelet is perfect fit. Looks perfect to the eye. It’s just the inner wall of pipe that’s got a little extra space around probe needle. If I grab it it’s maybe a little wobbly. But it’s stable just sitting there with magnet. Would aluminum tape on needle affect the reading at all? Is it even worth bothering with that ?

I take the advice with getting rid of hot ash immediately .