Hey guys. This is my second season with my insert and the thing is running much better with seasoned wood haha. Still Tryin to figure out the. Exact science behind establishing a good fire/ coal bed Etc. my question to anyone else who owns a 35 winterport is : does your air control lever go all the way to the left or does it stop with about 1/8 inch or so of space ? I looked in the vent to see if I could see the lever opening and closing the air hole and I can but I noticed that the lever doesn't let me go all the way to the left which leaves a very small space still open in the hole. Is the how the stove is made and it just isn't designed to fully close ? Any feedback will help
Jotul 350 winterport insert
- Thread starter Bulldogmoose
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This is by design. Modern EPA stoves alway admit some air so that the fire can not be smoldered. The secondary air on most stoves including the C350 is completely unregulated and open at all times.
That's interesting.. Well that makes me feel better. What do you recommend doing as far as longer burns ? Because when I do close it as much as t goes ... It still burns almost as if the air control was fully open but not as much
What you are probably seeing is the secondary ignition of the wood gases coming from a hot fresh fuel charge. As the wood heats up it starts outgassing rapidly. The bloom of gases are ignited at the top of the firebox and mixed with secondary air for more complete combustion.
To slow this process down for an extended burn, close down the air sooner and burn larger splits, pack the firebox tighter an with harder wood like hickory, oak, hedge, locust.
To slow this process down for an extended burn, close down the air sooner and burn larger splits, pack the firebox tighter an with harder wood like hickory, oak, hedge, locust.
Ok.. Right now I'm using red oak about 12-14 inches long and roughly 3 inches thick or so. I don't really have anything thicker then that... My only concern with lowering it sooner is that I'm going to lose more heat being dispersed out no?
I just purchased the same stove and can confirm the air control lever will not go completely to the left of the slot it moves in. Wondered about that myself so thanks for asking and for the knowledgeable replies.
I had my first fire a couple of days ago. I put in 3 largish splits on a coal bed and shut the air completely after they began to burn. Guess I should have shut it sooner as they continued to burn at a high rate and the front of the stove got hot enough to char paper I placed against it to the left of the door below the air outlet. I was afraid to leave the stove it seemed so hot. Don't have a thermometer yet but that seemed excessive. It took 3 hours for those splits to turn totally to coals.
I had my first fire a couple of days ago. I put in 3 largish splits on a coal bed and shut the air completely after they began to burn. Guess I should have shut it sooner as they continued to burn at a high rate and the front of the stove got hot enough to char paper I placed against it to the left of the door below the air outlet. I was afraid to leave the stove it seemed so hot. Don't have a thermometer yet but that seemed excessive. It took 3 hours for those splits to turn totally to coals.
What kind of wood are you burning.. And how big/ how did you control the air lever for the logs to last that Lon before turning to coals
No, the heat will just be dispersed slower, providing a longer burn and a less dramatic peak temperature.
Thanks begreen. Gotta get a thermometer. Bulldogmoose, I'm using some 2 year old ash 18 inches long. I closed the air completely after ignition from previous coals. I don't know if 3 hours for that is good or not. Later, I put two splits on, closed air immediately and those two splits lasted 2 hours. Splits probably averaged 4 inches thick
I have a 350 and can also attest that the air control won't fully close. This insert seems very difficult to over fire even with my 30' chimney. My Oslo on the other hand is very easy to over fire.
I just don't think you can get enough wood in the 350 to really over fire it.
I just don't think you can get enough wood in the 350 to really over fire it.
Ok.. I use 12-16 inch about 3 inches thick or so.. I use red oak now n I will have a ton of maple for next year. I wanna start getting in the habit of splitting larger pcs . I'm assuming that's why I'm not getting as long of a burn time
Typical from the last ash I purchased. Just as they came. No idea if they are a proper size. I can only get about 3 or max of 4 in the firebox. In my limited experience these seem to last about an hour each with the air shut down. About 17 inches long.
![[Hearth.com] Jotul 350 winterport insert](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/146/146658-1d8fb3ec62db3ba3763b8efe22029fdd.jpg?hash=_P-BKeaf9o "[Hearth.com] Jotul 350 winterport insert")
Appreciate that.. Yeah my splits are def smaller .. Still Tryin to master it Hahaha .. How's the heat out put when u burn like that.. Do you have an interior or exterior firelace
The stove front got up to 600 degrees at one point with the 3 logs in so it does get hot. Have the blister to show for it
. Can't answer as to how it heats the room it's in yet as I had not closed any doors to other parts of the house. We're changing our casual living arrangement to downstairs from upstairs to the area where the insert is located. After we get down there I'll have a better idea. My chimney is an exterior chimney but when I pull out the old slammer insert I insulated it with roxul and durock. Put in some heavy duty aluminum foil on top of the durock. Don't know if that will actually help any but was simple to do so what the heck.
![[Hearth.com] Jotul 350 winterport insert](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/146/146675-81719c25f7d18ee6e4e727b5b49b30c0.jpg?hash=i1MsZUkFAl "[Hearth.com] Jotul 350 winterport insert")
![[Hearth.com] Jotul 350 winterport insert](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/146/146676-d512539a26def6976a150f8e1b0ea78e.jpg?hash=Am9301VU_- "[Hearth.com] Jotul 350 winterport insert")
. Can't answer as to how it heats the room it's in yet as I had not closed any doors to other parts of the house. We're changing our casual living arrangement to downstairs from upstairs to the area where the insert is located. After we get down there I'll have a better idea. My chimney is an exterior chimney but when I pull out the old slammer insert I insulated it with roxul and durock. Put in some heavy duty aluminum foil on top of the durock. Don't know if that will actually help any but was simple to do so what the heck. All I have is the insert inserted into the chimney with a blockoff plate at the damper with some roxul insulation
Durock is a cement board about 1/2 inch thick. Normally used for backing material for tile. Comes in 3 x 5 sheets for a few dollars and is available at any home improvement big box store in or near the flooring department. I got the idea from reading this forum. I'm guessing that if you have an internal chimney it's not really needed.
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