I do think the block off plate and an insulated flue would help some. Dealer told me it would cause the box to heat too much. All the installers did was shove some insulation where the old shelf was. I thought that was shoddy.
My Jotul is weak
- Thread starter Angelo C
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An insulated block-off plate will improve heat output, together with insulation behind it. How tall of a liner did they put in? Is it insulated?
As a test, with the next fire, open a nearby window 1/2" and see if that perks up the fire.
As a test, with the next fire, open a nearby window 1/2" and see if that perks up the fire.
Looks like a Cat stove to me…. I thought the “tubes” were just air wash. Didn’t know they were “secondary “burners.
If it is the C550 v2 then it is a hybrid cat/secondary stove. What temperature is the catalytic combustor running at according to the TES 1310 thermometer?
The 1/2" window opening will test whether the insert is starving for combustion air. Try with the air control about midway to 75% closed.
To the OP, I’m sure your issue will get solved. I have the old version of the Rockland about 13 yrs old. No block off plate and it heats the house pretty well in southern New England. I can’t add too much about ideas, but I’m sure something will work. Don’t give up!
If you want to check the “stovetop temperature” of the this insert, put a stovetop thermometer in the slot where the warm are comes out. I use a butter knife to slide it into place a few inches into slot. To check temp, you’ll probably need a flashlight.
If you want to check the “stovetop temperature” of the this insert, put a stovetop thermometer in the slot where the warm are comes out. I use a butter knife to slide it into place a few inches into slot. To check temp, you’ll probably need a flashlight.
Second
The air there is not controlled but gets sucked in due to the draft in the flue. Open the stove door and all air will go in thru the door, and none thru the tubes, so no secondaries flame.
Secondaries normally are absent when the (stove) door is open.
The air there is not controlled but gets sucked in due to the draft in the flue. Open the stove door and all air will go in thru the door, and none thru the tubes, so no secondaries flame.
And FYI .... 2 year old white oak seasoned in NJ is most likely (almost definitely) Not seasoned enough. Generally 3 years after splitting and stacking minimum till it's good.
In an open fireplace it can burn ok but in these modern stoves they need to be perfect for them to burn properly.
If you are near Monmouth county, NJ you are welcome to stop by with some splits and i'll test your Seasoned wood for you.
In an open fireplace it can burn ok but in these modern stoves they need to be perfect for them to burn properly.
If you are near Monmouth county, NJ you are welcome to stop by with some splits and i'll test your Seasoned wood for you.
To the OP. I have a Rockland, but the original before they went hybrid. Two years ago the guys from this site helped me to install a block off plate. I have about the same setup as you, 20' exterior chimney, and I live in PA, outside of Philly. I imagine your stove operates similar to mine. What Id do, is get a fire going, leave the fan off. As the fire builds slowly turn the air down. On my stove, on a reload on coals, I turn the air all the way down in about 10 minutes. Its cold out today, if you can't keep the fire going with the air turned down, then something is wrong, likely wood. These stoves are capable of burning hot, sometimes too hot IMO. Before bed my 1900 SQ FT colonial was 72 downstairs. I could not achieve that without the block off plate.
Not sure if you caught it but I have two pallets of firebricks I'm using as well. I appreciate the offer but have a pretty good understanding of "seasoning".
Was hoping to not turn this into a source of fuel discussion because I believe the bricks remove that part of the equation. Also, my two year old oaks are split 17" and about 3" average thick. I'm a firm believer that it's not the age of the fuel bu the split size. Some of my splits could be "kindling" to many folks. I've been around wood for enough time to know "seasoned".
I have never been around an "insert".
Fair enough. It might be helpful to get a stove top thermometer. I stick mine in the air vent slit on top about the center of the stove, maybe 3 inches in front of the flue. When this stove is ripping, its not uncommon for it to cruise at 700 for a bit before it settles in. I've measure the air temp coming out of front, and its around 300F. With a blower running at high, that's a lot of warm getting into your room. Things should warm up.
Would highly suggest a stove top thermometer be placed as someone mentioned, and lets see what temps are being hit, that will tell us a lot. The Rockland has been around a long time, its a nice heater, sometimes over sold due to the firebox isn't that big, its more like a mid size insert. Having said that though, Jotul has been around since 1853, they make good stoves. If the stove is hitting the normal temps (400-600 deg) then its simply not enough stove. Insulating around the damper area, keeping as much heat in as possible I'm sure would help. I know you don't think its the wood, but stove temps will determine that. If temps are getting there, the insert is doing its thing. If they don't, i'd question the wood. It sounds like excessive heat loss around the insert, or its just too small a heater, could be a combo. Good luck, you bought a good product.
I'm hoping there is a solution. But if two year old oak or firebricks is not then there really isn't a practical use for this unit. The expense of kiln dried lumber which would be the only practical way of sourcing "seasoned" kinda negates any efficient use. Few of us can season 4-5 cords for 4-5 years space wise.
Help me follow the "open door" theory. Is it that the house might be TOO tight and not enough air is getting to the unit ?
Thanks IA
Its a custom made thing. Its not terribly difficult. There is a really good tutorial on this site.
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I bought a cheap metal break to make mine from harbor freight, but is not necessary. Since your stove is already installed and connected, you will make a two piece plate, as I did. It certainly worth doing.
Thanks so much. I've got a few buddies who are fabrication doods. Favor repayment collection time .Its a custom made thing. Its not terribly difficult. There is a really good tutorial on this site.
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I bought a cheap metal break to make mine from harbor freight, but is not necessary. Since your stove is already installed and connected, you will make a two piece plate, as I did. It certainly worth doing.
Instead of a stove top thermometer that is hard to place on an insert and are notoriously inaccurate, just get an infared thermometer gun. They are like $20 from Amazon or home Depot.
I did catch this at the same time you claim 2 year white oak is seasoned because, you say you just know.
I burn almost exclusively oak mostly, red oak in NJ.
At 2 years split and stacked the Red oak is only marginal. And most of my red oak was cut from either dead standing or dead fallen so it had a head start.
I'm not saying you don't have some other problem with your jotul, but to problem solve you need to eliminate potential problems.
In your mind you eliminated the top problem, your wood.
In my mind you have not eliminated it, mainly because you describe burning problems that are, 90% of the time, indicative of wood that is not seasoned enough. And your stated thought that 2 year oak is seasoned.
The firebricks seem to say wood may not be an issue when burning the firebricks, but why waste time and effort when it is so easy to confirm what the moisture content is for the rest of your oak and ash splits.
I'm often surprised when testing various splits that show both much better than expected, and also must worse than expected.
I've been splitting stacking burning for over 40 years and am still constantly learning about wood. I'm not an expert but can usually figure out how to solve problems.
The firebricks have only ambient moisture levels. Anything greater and they explode. To expect anything less than ambient moisture is not practical for my intentions. To resplit my 3" thick oak is "splitting hairs".
Literally.
What is a reasonable temp yield delta between your "seasoned" oak and my green 2 year old ?
100*
200*
Just asking because it should be almost the same delta between my firebricks and my green oak/ and two year old Ash.
16%-17% oak is very different than
20% oak which is also very different than
22-23% oak
and anything above is a non starter.
Get a meter and get it right.
All else is a waste of time.
How do i know? i've burned marginal moisture content wood probably 90% of the time in a number of Jotul stoves and see the differences all the time.
Yes maybe your wood is perfect, maybe you have other problems, how are you going to figure it out?
20% oak which is also very different than
22-23% oak
and anything above is a non starter.
Get a meter and get it right.
All else is a waste of time.
How do i know? i've burned marginal moisture content wood probably 90% of the time in a number of Jotul stoves and see the differences all the time.
Yes maybe your wood is perfect, maybe you have other problems, how are you going to figure it out?
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