New Blaze King,

[kenmal]

This is the first time I have ever posted anything since the days of Bulletin Boards. Advanced Sorry if this is long winded, rambling and Spelling and grammar sucks.

We purchased a 2500SF house 7 years ago with two wood stoves , Century FW3001... First winter was tough , Only one cord of wood and went thru 1800 Gallons of LP... Ouch!

2nd winter not as bad had more wood but still went thru 1200 Gallons of lp.

The main wood stove we have to put a couple of pieces of wood in about every 1 hour to 1 1/2 hours , Mess with the Damper etc.. Did this for to many years. At night no one would get up to put wood on the fire so the Boiler wood kick in.. Front Stove (2nd stove) we would only run when it got around 20 otherwise the front rook would be in the 50's because of all the windows. When it hit 0 or below the two stoves could not keep up so the boiler would still run.. This is with running the two stoves as hot as we could, Stove pipe Temps around 450 or so...


In November went on the hunt for a new stove, searched high and low. Narrowed it down to a Blaze King King or a IronStrike GRANDVIEW 300

The final decisions was easy, we already had 8" Class A going out the roof So ordered A Blaze King King Ultra.

Dec 22 2018, New Stove put in, Blaze King King Utltra....

The first couple of days with the stove was touch and go, No damper to fiddle with, No reloading after and hour or so. The first night the house was so Fracking hot (85 ish) we had to open windows. The second night it was cold and woke up to 65 degree house. So I figured it out after that, House was steady 72-74 , Awsome control, never had this before.

The first 3 weeks we never hit a real cold spell, Reloads was 18-24 hours... Yes 18-24 compared to 1-1 1/2 ...

Today woke up and it was -15, Cold outside, But the house was a nice 75 in the area with the stove. That load lasted a good 13 hours.

OH Ya, the 2nd stove in the Front Room has not been started Since the Blaze King has been put in. The Family room that stove is in is 500SF and the only heat is thru a 28" doorway, This morning when it was -15 that room was still 66.

To sum it up. Blaze King stove was the best purchase we ever made. Long Burn times, can be gone all day with no worries.

When I reload ( for some reason the wife no longer puts wood in the stove) It is always in active Zone. Usually around the 11-12 on a clock. If I follow Blaze Kings manual to the T, I would be running the stove wide open for 20-30 minutes after the reload. I did this a couple of times and the Cat. Thermometer hits the G In "Blaze King" and stove top temp is around 550... So I usually only run it wide open for about 15 minutes at most. Not know what the actual temp is Do I let run their 20-30 or Turn it down after 15 when I think it is good?

Flames- I have read that the catalytic Combustor will fail early If It is subject to FLAMES and to HOT... On reloads there are high flames Etc.. Are these flames actually getting to the catalytic or is the shield blocking most or all of them? Or should I not even worry about it?

One Issue:

The stove was put in by a pro, Because of the weight of the stove I did not want to bust a nut to put it in. After he got it installed and gave me the 2c tour, He said the door will be hard to latch until the seal gets broke in. OK, Not a big deal. A week into burning the door handle was loose so I looked to see what was needed to tighten it up again. Ended up using a needle nose pliers to tighten the two screws holding the handle . Handle seemed good. Next reload Handle was loose again.. Same thing all over, This happen again. Let the stove cool down enough to be able to get better inspection of it. Notice that where the two screws go thru the door to attach the handle the seal is slit pretty deep, I assume this is so they could get the screws into the Handle, But also Notice that the bottom screw was at a angle , So I took out both screws and the door handle off, The top and bottom screws looked to be cross threaded, Bottom being the worst of all. I put two lock washers on the screws and was able to get the top screw tightened up pretty good, Bottom screw just spun in the hole. Called dealer and found out they were closed Until Jan. 8ths or so, Left a message. I then called Blaze King and told them about the door and the dealer was closed for a couple weeks. They said I had to work with the dealer because it sounded like it is a warranty claim. The dealer did call back a couple of days after they reopened. He said he would talk with the installer and get back to me. Waited and waited, called the dealer this morning and left a message. Will wait for a day and try again, But it is getting to the point of I don’t know if it is leaking air or not.

Did I say sorry for rambling ?

 

[prezes13]

Try dollar test. Put a dollar all the way round the door and latch it. It should give you a significant resistance. Basically you should not be able to move it without tearing it.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

This is the first time I have ever posted anything since the days of Bulletin Boards. Advanced Sorry if this is long winded, rambling and Spelling and grammar sucks.

We purchased a 2500SF house 7 years ago with two wood stoves , Century FW3001... First winter was tough , Only one cord of wood and went thru 1800 Gallons of LP... Ouch!

2nd winter not as bad had more wood but still went thru 1200 Gallons of lp.

The main wood stove we have to put a couple of pieces of wood in about every 1 hour to 1 1/2 hours , Mess with the Damper etc.. Did this for to many years. At night no one would get up to put wood on the fire so the Boiler wood kick in.. Front Stove (2nd stove) we would only run when it got around 20 otherwise the front rook would be in the 50's because of all the windows. When it hit 0 or below the two stoves could not keep up so the boiler would still run.. This is with running the two stoves as hot as we could, Stove pipe Temps around 450 or so...


In November went on the hunt for a new stove, searched high and low. Narrowed it down to a Blaze King King or a IronStrike GRANDVIEW 300

The final decisions was easy, we already had 8" Class A going out the roof So ordered A Blaze King King Ultra.

Dec 22 2018, New Stove put in, Blaze King King Utltra....

The first couple of days with the stove was touch and go, No damper to fiddle with, No reloading after and hour or so. The first night the house was so Fracking hot (85 ish) we had to open windows. The second night it was cold and woke up to 65 degree house. So I figured it out after that, House was steady 72-74 , Awsome control, never had this before.

The first 3 weeks we never hit a real cold spell, Reloads was 18-24 hours... Yes 18-24 compared to 1-1 1/2 ...

Today woke up and it was -15, Cold outside, But the house was a nice 75 in the area with the stove. That load lasted a good 13 hours.

OH Ya, the 2nd stove in the Front Room has not been started Since the Blaze King has been put in. The Family room that stove is in is 500SF and the only heat is thru a 28" doorway, This morning when it was -15 that room was still 66.

To sum it up. Blaze King stove was the best purchase we ever made. Long Burn times, can be gone all day with no worries.

When I reload ( for some reason the wife no longer puts wood in the stove) It is always in active Zone. Usually around the 11-12 on a clock. If I follow Blaze Kings manual to the T, I would be running the stove wide open for 20-30 minutes after the reload. I did this a couple of times and the Cat. Thermometer hits the G In "Blaze King" and stove top temp is around 550... So I usually only run it wide open for about 15 minutes at most. Not know what the actual temp is Do I let run their 20-30 or Turn it down after 15 when I think it is good?

Flames- I have read that the catalytic Combustor will fail early If It is subject to FLAMES and to HOT... On reloads there are high flames Etc.. Are these flames actually getting to the catalytic or is the shield blocking most or all of them? Or should I not even worry about it?

One Issue:

The stove was put in by a pro, Because of the weight of the stove I did not want to bust a nut to put it in. After he got it installed and gave me the 2c tour, He said the door will be hard to latch until the seal gets broke in. OK, Not a big deal. A week into burning the door handle was loose so I looked to see what was needed to tighten it up again. Ended up using a needle nose pliers to tighten the two screws holding the handle . Handle seemed good. Next reload Handle was loose again.. Same thing all over, This happen again. Let the stove cool down enough to be able to get better inspection of it. Notice that where the two screws go thru the door to attach the handle the seal is slit pretty deep, I assume this is so they could get the screws into the Handle, But also Notice that the bottom screw was at a angle , So I took out both screws and the door handle off, The top and bottom screws looked to be cross threaded, Bottom being the worst of all. I put two lock washers on the screws and was able to get the top screw tightened up pretty good, Bottom screw just spun in the hole. Called dealer and found out they were closed Until Jan. 8ths or so, Left a message. I then called Blaze King and told them about the door and the dealer was closed for a couple weeks. They said I had to work with the dealer because it sounded like it is a warranty claim. The dealer did call back a couple of days after they reopened. He said he would talk with the installer and get back to me. Waited and waited, called the dealer this morning and left a message. Will wait for a day and try again, But it is getting to the point of I don’t know if it is leaking air or not.

Did I say sorry for rambling ?

Since a door costs extra, ought to be perfect on delivery. Hope that dealer comes through for you, pronto.

 

[ColdNorCal]

This is the first time I have ever posted anything since the days of Bulletin Boards. Advanced Sorry if this is long winded, rambling and Spelling and grammar sucks.

We purchased a 2500SF house 7 years ago with two wood stoves , Century FW3001... First winter was tough , Only one cord of wood and went thru 1800 Gallons of LP... Ouch!

2nd winter not as bad had more wood but still went thru 1200 Gallons of lp.

The main wood stove we have to put a couple of pieces of wood in about every 1 hour to 1 1/2 hours , Mess with the Damper etc.. Did this for to many years. At night no one would get up to put wood on the fire so the Boiler wood kick in.. Front Stove (2nd stove) we would only run when it got around 20 otherwise the front rook would be in the 50's because of all the windows. When it hit 0 or below the two stoves could not keep up so the boiler would still run.. This is with running the two stoves as hot as we could, Stove pipe Temps around 450 or so...


In November went on the hunt for a new stove, searched high and low. Narrowed it down to a Blaze King King or a IronStrike GRANDVIEW 300

The final decisions was easy, we already had 8" Class A going out the roof So ordered A Blaze King King Ultra.

Dec 22 2018, New Stove put in, Blaze King King Utltra....

The first couple of days with the stove was touch and go, No damper to fiddle with, No reloading after and hour or so. The first night the house was so Fracking hot (85 ish) we had to open windows. The second night it was cold and woke up to 65 degree house. So I figured it out after that, House was steady 72-74 , Awsome control, never had this before.

The first 3 weeks we never hit a real cold spell, Reloads was 18-24 hours... Yes 18-24 compared to 1-1 1/2 ...

Today woke up and it was -15, Cold outside, But the house was a nice 75 in the area with the stove. That load lasted a good 13 hours.

OH Ya, the 2nd stove in the Front Room has not been started Since the Blaze King has been put in. The Family room that stove is in is 500SF and the only heat is thru a 28" doorway, This morning when it was -15 that room was still 66.

To sum it up. Blaze King stove was the best purchase we ever made. Long Burn times, can be gone all day with no worries.

When I reload ( for some reason the wife no longer puts wood in the stove) It is always in active Zone. Usually around the 11-12 on a clock. If I follow Blaze Kings manual to the T, I would be running the stove wide open for 20-30 minutes after the reload. I did this a couple of times and the Cat. Thermometer hits the G In "Blaze King" and stove top temp is around 550... So I usually only run it wide open for about 15 minutes at most. Not know what the actual temp is Do I let run their 20-30 or Turn it down after 15 when I think it is good?

Flames- I have read that the catalytic Combustor will fail early If It is subject to FLAMES and to HOT... On reloads there are high flames Etc.. Are these flames actually getting to the catalytic or is the shield blocking most or all of them? Or should I not even worry about it?

One Issue:

The stove was put in by a pro, Because of the weight of the stove I did not want to bust a nut to put it in. After he got it installed and gave me the 2c tour, He said the door will be hard to latch until the seal gets broke in. OK, Not a big deal. A week into burning the door handle was loose so I looked to see what was needed to tighten it up again. Ended up using a needle nose pliers to tighten the two screws holding the handle . Handle seemed good. Next reload Handle was loose again.. Same thing all over, This happen again. Let the stove cool down enough to be able to get better inspection of it. Notice that where the two screws go thru the door to attach the handle the seal is slit pretty deep, I assume this is so they could get the screws into the Handle, But also Notice that the bottom screw was at a angle , So I took out both screws and the door handle off, The top and bottom screws looked to be cross threaded, Bottom being the worst of all. I put two lock washers on the screws and was able to get the top screw tightened up pretty good, Bottom screw just spun in the hole. Called dealer and found out they were closed Until Jan. 8ths or so, Left a message. I then called Blaze King and told them about the door and the dealer was closed for a couple weeks. They said I had to work with the dealer because it sounded like it is a warranty claim. The dealer did call back a couple of days after they reopened. He said he would talk with the installer and get back to me. Waited and waited, called the dealer this morning and left a message. Will wait for a day and try again, But it is getting to the point of I don’t know if it is leaking air or not.

Did I say sorry for rambling ?

The Century stove requires a 6" chimney.

 

[Tar12]

As has been suggested do the dollar bill test..if it does not past this test... stop burning or you will damage the combuster for sure! If this is not a option you may have to have to tap the screw holes and install larger screws but I would be talking to the dealer first! To your question in regards to how long to run the stove wide open upon reload...in the beginning I would run the 30 minutes...but rarely run that long now...I close the by pass just prior to the needle hitting the active range...I then let it cruise until the cat temp hits 1000 degrees and the double wall pipe Temp probe hits 350-400 then I start backing off the air settling for the overnight cruise...this typically takes 15-20 minutes....I might add that this is well seasoned oak in the 16-18% range....(or less) it lights right off on a bed of coals and my cat is usually in the active range when I do this....if your wood is not ideal I would run the full 30 to drive out excess moisture....BTW....I run the little sister to your stove the Princess..

 

[Highbeam]

I can’t think of any reason to have messed with the two little screws holding the handle to the door. These screws have nothing to do with the tension of the latch/handle. You adjust the tension on the gasket by loosening the two large nuts that hold the latch to the stove body and bring that latch closer or farther from the stove body. The door handle stats put.

Good news is that the part you buggered up is easily replaced and your dealer can pop one off of a floor model or send you a new one.

 

[Highbeam]

Oh yeah, I do not run 30 minutes on high after engaging the cat. That’s too long and my flue temps approach redline after just 15. I think the 30 minutes must be for large splits of wet wood. I run it at full stat setting until about 800 on the flue and then swing the stat down to my cruise setting.

 

[BKVP]

When a new door is hung on a new stove, the instructions are very clear to set the door gasket tension...based upon your comment that door would be too tight at first, I'm guessing door latch was not adjusted. Then closing "very hard" pulled the threads out of the block and caused premature groove on door handle.

Please call me tomorrow at 509-522-2730 and we'll get new door sent to you. Remember to adjust tension.

 

[Tar12]

When a new door is hung on a new stove, the instructions are very clear to set the door gasket tension...based upon your comment that door would be too tight at first, I'm guessing door latch was not adjusted. Then closing "very hard" pulled the threads out of the block and caused premature groove on door handle.

Please call me tomorrow at 509-522-2730 and we'll get new door sent to you. Remember to adjust tension.

You are a good man...representing and standing behind one of the if not the best stoves on the market...its stories like this that cemented my decision to go with a BK...

 

[BKVP]

You are a good man...representing and standing behind one of the if not the best stoves on the market...its stories like this that cemented my decision to go with a BK...

Tar, thank you. I am an avid hunter, fisherman, NASCAR & NHRA fan. Once in a while I buy something or go somewhere and when you get superb service, it makes you feel good. Being on the receiving end of great service, we just try to pay it forward, when we can.

A shout out to Danner & Kennetrek boot companies, Vortex & Nightforce optics, the Super folks at Delta and last but far from least, the guy that helped me navigate the metro in DC recently and make my flight

 

[kenmal]

The Century stove requires a 6" chimney.

6" is Correct. At the ceiling they had it going to 7" then 8" . I

As has been suggested do the dollar bill test..if it does not past this test... stop burning or you will damage the combuster for sure! If this is not a option you may have to have to tap the screw holes and install larger screws but I would be talking to the dealer first! To your question in regards to how long to run the stove wide open upon reload...in the beginning I would run the 30 minutes...but rarely run that long now...I close the by pass just prior to the needle hitting the active range...I then let it cruise until the cat temp hits 1000 degrees and the double wall pipe Temp probe hits 350-400 then I start backing off the air settling for the overnight cruise...this typically takes 15-20 minutes....I might add that this is well seasoned oak in the 16-18% range....(or less) it lights right off on a bed of coals and my cat is usually in the active range when I do this....if your wood is not ideal I would run the full 30 to drive out excess moisture....BTW....I run the little sister to your stove the Princess..

Dollar Bill test done every time the handle was loose and before I tightened it up again passed every time. I thought about tapping the holes and putting larger screws in but then thought about it. Its new , Followed installers instructions.So why go thru that?
Wood is 15-16% never could get dryer than that, Reloads are always in active zone, Most times wood starts up before I finish loading the stove, so it is always on a good bed of coals.
I have a magnetic thermometer on the double wall It usually hits 300-350, And the Cat Thermometer is around 3-4 o'clock range when I turn it down. Usually takes 10-15 minutes for this.

When a new door is hung on a new stove, the instructions are very clear to set the door gasket tension...based upon your comment that door would be too tight at first, I'm guessing door latch was not adjusted. Then closing "very hard" pulled the threads out of the block and caused premature groove on door handle.

Please call me tomorrow at 509-522-2730 and we'll get new door sent to you. Remember to adjust tension.

Yes the door was very tight , When I commented on it the installer said that this is normal and will loosen up after about a week, HA HA... the Handle is what loosened up.
Called about an hour ago, the person I spoke with was also going to call the dealer.

 

[maple1]

I have a magnetic thermometer on the double wall

I don't think that is good - magnetics are for single wall.

 

[Woody Stover]

I have a magnetic thermometer on the double wall It usually hits 300-350, And the Cat Thermometer is around 3-4 o'clock range when I turn it down. Usually takes 10-15 minutes for this.

I don't think that is good - magnetics are for single wall.

Whoo, yeah, 350 seems way hot on the outside of double wall!

 

[Wildbilljp]

You are a good man...representing and standing behind one of the if not the best stoves on the market...its stories like this that cemented my decision to go with a BK...

Me too....

 

[kenmal]

Please call me tomorrow at 509-522-2730 and we'll get new door sent to you.

I should have posted sooner but to much work and not enough play.
I would like to say thank you to BKVP and Everyone at Blaze King. They are great, sent out a door very fast and had it in a couple of days. New door on and adjusted passes dollar bill test.

Plus side of everything with the -30 last week King stove performed better than I expected. The boiler was never needed to help heat the house because the King did it all. Lucky I did not need the boiler anyways, the heat exchange is leaking.

 

[jetsam]

Not know what the actual temp is Do I let run their 20-30 or Turn it down after 15 when I think it is good?

I do 0 minutes if the stove is hot and I'm in a hurry. With wet wood you might need an hour. You will get a feel for it. Avoid letting the combustor go inactive!

Flames- I have read that the catalytic Combustor will fail early If It is subject to FLAMES and to HOT... On reloads there are high flames Etc.. Are these flames actually getting to the catalytic or is the shield blocking most or all of them? Or should I not even worry about it?

If you are going to burn full time, don't sweat it. You will probably replace the combustor every 2-3 years like the rest of us, and the flame guard does a pretty good job. Remember to open the bypass before the door! My first ceramic cat still looked pretty good after I replaced it at 2.5 years, and I was not at all careful to keep flames off of it.

If you want the cat to last for 10+ years of occasional use, maybe be more careful with it. But you sound like a full time burner to me!

Plus side of everything with the -30 last week King stove performed better than I expected. The boiler was never needed to help heat the house because the King did it all. Lucky I did not need the boiler anyways, the heat exchange is leaking.

Eh, boiler's out. Fix it next year.... you have a BK!

This year I found out towards the end of December that the transformer that runs my boiler's zone relay box had been dead for... months? Years? Who knows?

 

[MTY]

I figured that this year I was going to replace the cat before heating season. I cleaned the stove, pipe, used a paint brush on the cat, fired it up and did the manual's procedure for testing the cat. I did it several times over a couple of weeks and each time it stayed active until all but the smallest amount of coals were left. So, I put it off for another year.

The stove was installed in 2009. In that time, I have had the cord go bad on the blower, a door gasket that needed replacement, and zero other issues. I burn from September until April and go through 6-7 cords of red fir and tamarack each year. Well over 75% of the wood has been tamarack.

Maybe next year I will replace the cat.

 

[Highbeam]

I figured that this year I was going to replace the cat before heating season. I cleaned the stove, pipe, used a paint brush on the cat, fired it up and did the manual's procedure for testing the cat. I did it several times over a couple of weeks and each time it stayed active until all but the smallest amount of coals were left. So, I put it off for another year.

The stove was installed in 2009. In that time, I have had the cord go bad on the blower, a door gasket that needed replacement, and zero other issues. I burn from September until April and go through 6-7 cords of red fir and tamarack each year. Well over 75% of the wood has been tamarack.

Maybe next year I will replace the cat.

You can purchase a new cat and have it ready. The old one owes you nothing but I would run it until it dies. It will be pretty obvious. Popping the new one in takes about 2 minutes.

 

[weatherguy]

Always good to have the next one on hand and ready to go.

 

[MTY]

That is probably a smart move. I know I can get one from the dealer I bought the stove from, but I wonder if there is a less expensive quality alternative. The dealer wanted 300+.

 

[Tar12]

That is probably a smart move. I know I can get one from the dealer I bought the stove from, but I wonder if there is a less expensive quality alternative. The dealer wanted 300+.

You running a King or Princess? I got my spare for my Princess for $186 from Firecat Combusters...you can get it directly from them or Amazon and if i remember correctly they make them for Blaze King..

 

[BKVP]

You running a King or Princess? I got my spare for my Princess for $186 from Firecat Combusters...you can get it directly from them or Amazon and if i remember correctly they make them for Blaze King..

Correct. They make them for almost all mfgs.

 

[Highbeam]

You running a King or Princess? I got my spare for my Princess for $186 from Firecat Combusters...you can get it directly from them or Amazon and if i remember correctly they make them for Blaze King..

The king cat is bigger and quite a bit more expensive but buying from firecat should be significantly cheaper than the dealer. Maybe they will price match for you.

I like the amazon source even better since the automation makes the deal smoother than calling some clay covered guy at the firecat factory!

 

[MTY]

I did not mean to steal the thread, but maybe the info will help the OP. I have a King. Is the quality between the BK, firecat and amazon product similar?

 

[jetsam]

Firecat was (and I believe still is) the oem for BK combustors. Condar used to have a few combustors on amazon but I don't see them anymore.

Firecat still hasn't figured out that the internet is a thing, so if you want to deal with them it is an ordeal. They don't respond to email. Equally annoying, they have a website with a "contact us" form that they also do not look at. Buying direct from them does get you the lowest prices.

I don't know for a fact that Condar is a combustor manufacturer, but they certainly sell them. I bought my last one from them. Paid $100 more than firecat's price because I doubt that a 2018 company that can't operate an email client can execute the far more complex task of putting a small item in a box and mailing it to a specified address.