New stove gasket problem?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Hi everyone I'm new to this site and new to pellet stoves in general but have visited this site alot while researching what to get. I ultimately decided to go with the Lopi Deerfield. I do have a question however. Upon doing my second weekly cleaning I discovered a pretty big fray in the gasket that surrounds the door. It look as if it's burnt through about half way. The installer had to come out to fix a rattle (Lopi forgot to tighten a couple screws on the back panel ) and said that the fraying look was from where the gasket butted up to itself and is normal. Does this look normal to anybody in here? Thanks
20171222_160730.jpg
 
Looks some what normal to me. If it was mine, I would try to compress and smooth it a few times just before closing the door with a small putty knife, screwdriver or whatever works. My hope would be that it would be more apt to conform to and seal the desired space. Something I would probably keep an eye on also.
 
Yeah the end will frey at the joint. You could try a little black high temp rtv to help keep it from going to far.
 
Not normal, I would put high temp rtv in the void then push the gasket ends in place then put some rtv over the joint and then put a small piece of foil tape over the joint.. This is how I do all my door gaskets when I replace them.
 
Not normal, I would put high temp rtv in the void then push the gasket ends in place then put some rtv over the joint and then put a small piece of foil tape over the joint.. This is how I do all my door gaskets when I replace them.

how do you put in a new gasket and keep the cut ends from freying?
 
can't really prevent the fraying completely but a real sharp scissors to make the cut helps a lot then I do as above.
 
Ok i thought i missed out on some magic way to cut fiberglass lol
 
  • Like
Reactions: rich2500
I guess more of my concern is coming from the fact that I have had the stove for literally 15 days and have ran a total of 8 bags through it. I would imagine something like that would be covered by their warranty? But the installer while fixing the rattle looked at it and said it's normal. Thanks for the advice.
 
From the looks of that it is not just some frayed ends but cut short and somewhat of a gap. Gaps = air leaks. I'd tell them you want a new rope gasket or replace it correctly myself. Dealer or service guy probably doesn't want to mess with it.

Mine on my P68 is frayed somewhat but didn't look like that mess and it's been worked hard since October or 2014.
 
Is there a way to test if air is getting in there? Luke holding a match on the outside of it to see if it pulls the smoke in? I just changed brand of pellets to lignetics (I bought a few different brands to test what burns cleanest) and it has been burning way dirty. I'm not sure if it's the lignetics or maybe if air is getting in. The first few bags I burned were golden fire pellets and they were no joke 2 to 3 times cleaner. Ever since I noticed the gasket and changed pellet brands the burn pot won't stay clean and the glass is getting way dirtier. Again, not sure yet if it's just a change in pellet brand or maybe there's an air leak now.
 
Last edited:
If that's "normal", I'd say their workmanship standards are pretty low.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bags
Is there a way to test if air is getting in there? Luke holding a match on the outside of it to see if it pulls the smoke in? I just changed brand of pellets to lignetics (I bought a few different brands to test what burns cleanest) and it has been burning way dirty. I'm not sure if it's the lignetics or maybe if air is getting in. The first few bags I burned were golden fire pellets and they were no joke 2 to 3 times cleaner. Ever since I noticed the gasket and changed pellet brands the burn pot won't stay clean and the glass is getting way dirtier. Again, not sure yet if it's just a change in pellet brand or maybe there's an air leak now.

I'd start with the gasket myself. I'm no help on the brands of pellets you are using as I'm unfamiliar with said brands. You can try to hold a match or lighter near where the gasket fray is to see if it pulls. If so it is a pretty decent air leak. Also Google reviews on the brands of pellets you are or have been using. You will likely find the info you want to know as to whether or not said brands burn poor and what not.

Google or use the search here on the dollar bill test too. What you are describing and experiencing is a classic poor seal. Dirty glass and poor burns. You have a new stove so there is no way that rope gasket should look like that nor be in that frayed mess unless your dog chewed it or the cat used it for a scratching post.

Many dealers and service techs are less than stellar and / or do not know as much as the folks here. We've seen it before. This place was a huge help when I was lost and knew nothing about pellet stoves. Come to find out after shopping around and asking questions many so called dealers around here were clueless. I found out more good info here. No kidding.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ssyko
Take a match , a candle or a barbecue grill lighter and run the flame along the area of the fray, if it's leaking it will suck the flame right inside the stove ( i use a grill lighter personally and check my gaskets about two times per season). And if it's leaking I wouldn't frig around with tucking in the old gasket but just rip it off and put on a new one. I did that on the ash door of my brand new P61 and rather than call and then wait for the stove people to come out, I ran down to the hardware store and bought a new gasket one size thicker than the original, that was five years ago. I installed it with red rtv because the actual gasket cement is harder to get off when you go to change the gasket again and red rtv is more than sufficient for the purpose.. But I changed the gasket because the stove had a massive air leak all along the bottom right side edge of the door and the seal was loose overall. I actually overlap my gaskets about half and in, then if they fray it doesn't matter. I fit the ends side by side, 1/4" or so for each, which just mashes down when you shut the door a few times. Course too that depends on the width of the channel the gasket sits in.

I'm not calling a stove company up to have them tighten a loose screw or stick on a gasket anyway, when I can have it all done before they get me written onto their appointment book.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bags