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Got to spend some quality time with the stove over the weekend and I think I’m really starting to grasp how to operate this thing. Definitely different from other stoves I’ve used. During my experimenting process, I flipped the boost manifold plate upside down. My understanding is that the proper installation has the holes on the lower inside lip facing toward the coal bed. I flipped it to have the holes facing up and in my opinion it actually performed better. My secondary burns appeared much stronger and with the intake damper fully closed, the secondaries were the strongest I’ve seen. I’ve since flipped it back the other way (boost holes in manifold facing back) and although I still can get the secondary burn, I haven’t been able to achieve the same strength on the secondaries as I did with the holes faced up. Any insight to why this would be? Would it be acceptable to flip the boost air manifold again if I’m seeing better performance with the holes faced up?
 
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I'm glad it's working out for u I have never flipped that boost air manifold so I can't comment on that. I just know the air control and dryer the wood the better. I'm only on my second year so I'm still learning. Hogwildz has been a great help maybe personal message him he seems to know a lot about these stoves.
 
Got to spend some quality time with the stove over the weekend and I think I’m really starting to grasp how to operate this thing. Definitely different from other stoves I’ve used. During my experimenting process, I flipped the boost manifold plate upside down. My understanding is that the proper installation has the holes on the lower inside lip facing toward the coal bed. I flipped it to have the holes facing up and in my opinion it actually performed better. My secondary burns appeared much stronger and with the intake damper fully closed, the secondaries were the strongest I’ve seen. I’ve since flipped it back the other way (boost holes in manifold facing back) and although I still can get the secondary burn, I haven’t been able to achieve the same strength on the secondaries as I did with the holes faced up. Any insight to why this would be? Would it be acceptable to flip the boost air manifold again if I’m seeing better performance with the holes faced up?


With your boost manifold plate flipped like that you are actually blocking the air holes in your boost manifold.
 
With your boost manifold plate flipped like that you are actually blocking the air holes in your boost manifold.
Correct. Whether necessary or not depends on the draft. Our PE has the original EBT which feeds air to the boost manifold. Our draft is strong and at times the boost was too much. We would see temps pushing the stove top thermometer well past the high mark of 700º with no control to slow it down. The boost air intake was taped off about 8 yrs ago for this reason and the stove has behaved very well since.
 
The boost air intake was taped off about 8 yrs ago for this reason and the stove has behaved very well since.
Begreen, Does the tape hold up year over year on the EBT flap, I would think that there is a decent amount of heat under there and the tape would disintegrate? Thanks
 
Yes, no problem. The EBT underside surface stays pretty cool. I used good quality metal tape. As an alternative one could use a magnet.