- Sep 17, 2007
I was thinking a little different....if you turned on a heater at fixed power, and then let it run until you reached a steady temperature increase relative to the outside.I have a 5600 watt heater that can raise the temp about 10 degrees in an hour. Yesterday it was 23 outside and the heater brought the temp up from 34 degrees to 48 degrees in a little more than an hour. 5600 watts is 19K BTU so I was thinking something around that rating or slightly lower might be good.
HSPF is 10.0 which is ok, but not extraordinary. A really good unit is going to be up around 12.0.
It surprises me that they use flares rather than o-rings. I wonder why. The Nylog makes sense but you'd need to make sure no errant bits end up floating around in the refrigerant.It really is as simple as connecting 4 flare fittings and vacuuming the lineset.
All the big manufacturers insist on using a torque wrench on the nuts. I did and everything I read says this assures an extremely reliable flare. Nylog on the flares is also recommended.
The use of flares I heard is because of the massive fire risk of brazing pipes with open flame in Asia where these units are from. The flare fitting are actually extremely reliable simple connections. It was found the main issue with flares was from over tightening the nuts. Torque wrenches are specd now by almost every mini split manufacturer. Using a torque wrench to properly torque the nut with a good flare has an extremely low failure rate.It surprises me that they use flares rather than o-rings. I wonder why. The Nylog makes sense but you'd need to make sure no errant bits end up floating around in the refrigerant.
Yeah. Most of the lower end Chinese units seem to not go much about 10-11 HSPF and don't have the best cold weather heating specs. Though for costing a fraction of the high end name brands they aren't terrible.HSPF is 10.0 which is ok, but not extraordinary. A really good unit is going to be up around 12.0.
https://customercare.comfortup.com/post-purchase-faqs/what-is-the-mitsubishi-warrantyAll parts are warranted for a period of five (5) years to the original registered end-user with proof of proper installation. The compressor is warranted for a period of seven (7) years to the original registered end-user with proof of proper installation. Ten (10) year parts and ten (10) year compressor coverage is offered when your system is installed by a licensed contractor and registered with Mitsubishi in 90 days from the date of installation. Twelve (12) year parts and twelve (12) year compressor coverage is offered when your system is installed by a Diamond Contractor and registered within 90 days of installation.
https://customercare.comfortup.com/post-purchase-faqs/what-is-the-gree-warrantyThe Gree Manufacturer's Warranty has recently updated. For systems sold before 2017, all parts are warranted for a period of five (5) years and the compressor is warranted for a period of five (5) years to the original registered end-user with proof of proper installation. As with all ductless mini split warranties in the industry, labor costs are not covered under the manufacturer’s warranty – extended warranties can be offered to cover that additional expense.
Your new cooling and heating system will only perform at optimal efficiency, comfort and safety levels if it is well installed. In fact, an improperly installed system could reduce the system’s efficiency by as much as 50%. In addition, any applicable warranties will only be valid if properly installed by a licensed contractor.
Interesting article, though it seems slanted toward marketing somewhat. Samsung and Panasonic are hardly newcomers, especially internationally. I was looking at Samsung units back in 2006. Also, they didn't choose the most efficient Gree line for comparison. The Gree SAP12HP230V1A would have been a better match.Interesting comparison by a Mitsu/Daikin installer
Thanks for that link. If the minimum indoor control settings are for 50degF, but the manufacturer recommends keeping the indoor setting above 63degF (to allow for effective defrosting of the exterior unit), then maybe these mini-splits are not the best choice for low use vacation cabins.I never considered there would be a minimum temperature setting. This thread suggests it might be an issue if the unit doesn't have it's own built in resistance heating, if I understand correctly https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?998911-Lowest-Thermostat-setting-for-heat-pump
So how do you like it? 30 amp circuit?Finally got around to doing this, went with a 24K BTU Mr Cool DIY unit because I wanted the warranty and I liked the sealed pre-charged line set. $1,600 for the unit plus another $400 for mounting bracket, line set cover, disconnect, etc.