Questions about heat pump for my shop

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JRP3

Feeling the Heat
Sep 17, 2007
277
NYS
Short version: I'm not sure there was ever a pressure issue but it's working now.

Long version:
I did borrow a gauge and checked the pressure, the gauge connections were not low loss, (found out about those after the fact), so I lost some pressure when connecting it but it was about where the 410A pressure chart said it should be for that outdoor temp, 103PSI at 33F. (However one HVAC tech I spoke to said you can't accurately tell charge level by pressure but I don't have the ability to pull the charge and weigh it.)

I added some more anyway up to about 110PSI and turned it on and it started working. Pumped it to about 120PSI while running in cooling mode, then switched it to heat and that worked, except I left the gauge hooked up and in heat mode the low pressure line becomes high pressure and pegged the gauge at 500 PSI. Switched it back to cooling to drop the pressure, then disconnected the gauge, which was a real disaster because the refrigerant came spraying out hard icing up the connector and making it hard to grip with pliers. I thought I lost everything but turned it on again and it's working. Soaped up the valve that had pressure under the cap and watched it for a while, no bubbles at all. (HVAC tech told me the valves could leak a bit when first opened up till the oil lubes the O rings, pressure under the cap could have been left over from initial pressurizing.) MrCool said if it's working with no errors then it's fine. I guess I put in a lot more refrigerant than it needed but lost just the right amount when disconnecting. Total cluster F but I have a working unit, no thanks to MrCool "support".

However, after I went through all that I did find a YouTube comment that said the P4 error might be fixed by disconnecting the compressor to control board plug and plugging it back in, which I had done earlier when checking compressor resistance, but never tried it after plugging it back in because I didn't think I had done anything. So it may have not been a refrigerant problem to begin with.
 

Highbeam

Minister of Fire
Dec 28, 2006
20,376
Mt. Rainier Foothills, WA
Short version: I'm not sure there was ever a pressure issue but it's working now.

Long version:
I did borrow a gauge and checked the pressure, the gauge connections were not low loss, (found out about those after the fact), so I lost some pressure when connecting it but it was about where the 410A pressure chart said it should be for that outdoor temp, 103PSI at 33F. (However one HVAC tech I spoke to said you can't accurately tell charge level by pressure but I don't have the ability to pull the charge and weigh it.)

I added some more anyway up to about 110PSI and turned it on and it started working. Pumped it to about 120PSI while running in cooling mode, then switched it to heat and that worked, except I left the gauge hooked up and in heat mode the low pressure line becomes high pressure and pegged the gauge at 500 PSI. Switched it back to cooling to drop the pressure, then disconnected the gauge, which was a real disaster because the refrigerant came spraying out hard icing up the connector and making it hard to grip with pliers. I thought I lost everything but turned it on again and it's working. Soaped up the valve that had pressure under the cap and watched it for a while, no bubbles at all. (HVAC tech told me the valves could leak a bit when first opened up till the oil lubes the O rings, pressure under the cap could have been left over from initial pressurizing.) MrCool said if it's working with no errors then it's fine. I guess I put in a lot more refrigerant than it needed but lost just the right amount when disconnecting. Total cluster F but I have a working unit, no thanks to MrCool "support".

However, after I went through all that I did find a YouTube comment that said the P4 error might be fixed by disconnecting the compressor to control board plug and plugging it back in, which I had done earlier when checking compressor resistance, but never tried it after plugging it back in because I didn't think I had done anything. So it may have not been a refrigerant problem to begin with.
What an adventure. Happy for you it’s working again. I think these things are far less sensitive than they would like us to think. The guys in third world countries with bare feet and a cigarette hanging out of their mouth manage to get them and keep them working with very little skill or tools.
 
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JRP3

Feeling the Heat
Sep 17, 2007
277
NYS
Unit stopped working again last night with the P4 error, this time I just turned off the circuit breaker for a few minutes and turned it back on, seems to have reset it and it's working again.
 

JRP3

Feeling the Heat
Sep 17, 2007
277
NYS
Found this on the Midea website, (I think they make MrCool or at least some components). It may explain why I can restart the system after a while.

 P4 indicates current protection on Phase A of system A.
 P5 indicates current protection on Phase A of system B.
 When the compressor current rises above the protection value 24A, the system displays P4 or P5 protection and all
units stop running. When the current returns to the normal range, P4 or P5 is removed and normal operation
resumes. When P4 or P5 error occurs 3 times in 60 minutes, a manual system restart is required before the system
can resume operation.
 Error code is displayed on main PCB and user interface.
3 Possible causes
 Power supply abnormal.
 Poor condenser heat exchange.
 High pressure side blockage.
 Excess refrigerant.
 System contains air or nitrogen.
 Inverter module damaged.
 Compressor damaged.
 Main PCB damaged.
 
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