Woodsplitter67
Minister of Fire
I looked at Ashley for my brother's home.. whats your opinion of how thay are today
Reloading Times
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I looked at Ashley for my brother's home.. whats your opinion of how thay are today
Sure. And you link USSCO to china as being low quality. So the Germans are in bed with China....who isn't?
So what?...no disrespect but you left out a lot of info as to how effective your claimed burn time was in heating your entire house. So what was the point?
I find the cat stove long burn times bragging on here is so vague as to be absolutely worthless.
It's a decent basic tube stove. I think this used to be a Vogelzang TR004 or something like that. With care it should work ok. My sister's is not running yet. They shipped it without the door,
so they're waiting on it. Disappointing in this cold snap.It wasn't heating my house much at all I never said it did. I simply turned the stove down low before we left. I was just talking about my loading times which is what the thread referenced.
Please show me a single time I have bragged about cat burn times when actually heating my home. Infact I typically do the complete opposite.
Drop it. This appears to be one's own, singular opinion and disproven by the OP.
Woodsplitter67
Minister of Fire
It's a decent basic tube stove. I think this used to be a Vogelzang TR004 or something like that. With care it should work ok. My sister's is not running yet. They shipped it without the door,
around here there seems to be low stock on stoves.. the ones I was looking at earlier aren't available
Yes, the demand has been high and inventory is low. It may not catch up until spring for some companies.
Given that a good portion of the cold rolled steel supply came from Russia and Ukraine, it may be price increases that ultimately get supply and demand under control. I dont see heating fuels changing their price in the next few years.
Trust me, I know about oil prices, lol....I dont see how people can even afford it now. It was up to 5.79 about a month ago. I will use mine SOME, but not much. Wood is better, bone warming heat. Heats up all the wood and the bones of the house great.
Woodsplitter67
Minister of Fire
When I started burning years ago, I actually thought that I would just be burning on the weekends and here and there.. boy was I wrong.. Yes.. a totally different kind of heat.. It quickly grew to 24/7 and my primary heat source..
Woodsplitter67
Minister of Fire
Most stoves atleast those sold here have the startup air come in a port right under the door so pulling the coals Infront of that makes them heat up the fastest and get the wood ignited as fast as possible. This isn't right for every stove though everyone needs to figure out what works best in their situation
Thanks, now I understand. This air you say front, at the bottom it is open in normal operation, or is only for starting?
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Bringing the coals to the front gets fresh air on them, and this serves two purposes:
1. Getting maximum wattage out of old coals at the end of the load, trying to keep the house warm as you burn down the old coals to make room for the next load of wood.
2. Getting any remaining coals red hot, to aid in ignition of the next load.
For the former problem, keeping the house warm while burning down old coals, this is particularly a problem with very dense hardwoods (eg. oak). They can have a long coaling phase, and heat output during that phase is often lower than your home may need to stay warm. To combat this, many like to rake the coals to the front, and then throw one piece of wood (preferably softwood) on top. The fresh wood gets the secondary burn system (cat or tubes) firing, to increase stove output, while burning down the coals. Softwood is preferred, because it produces less new coals.
1. Getting maximum wattage out of old coals at the end of the load, trying to keep the house warm as you burn down the old coals to make room for the next load of wood.
2. Getting any remaining coals red hot, to aid in ignition of the next load.
For the former problem, keeping the house warm while burning down old coals, this is particularly a problem with very dense hardwoods (eg. oak). They can have a long coaling phase, and heat output during that phase is often lower than your home may need to stay warm. To combat this, many like to rake the coals to the front, and then throw one piece of wood (preferably softwood) on top. The fresh wood gets the secondary burn system (cat or tubes) firing, to increase stove output, while burning down the coals. Softwood is preferred, because it produces less new coals.
Thank you! I noticed that also in my F500 eco in the area under the door there is a flange with two bolts, totally closed, I believe it may be a front air prep for US variants I assume. My stove I could use the ash drawer, to push up the coals, but in the end I have the internal grate totally closed, and therefore even with the drawer open I have no infiltrations. This is the only way I get long burns. If I leave the internal grate open, even closing the ash door, I have air infiltration. I use the side door, to quickly start up the coals.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
If the F500 is like the larger Firelight, then that plate below the door covers the air control mechanism. The oldest stoves did not have this access plate, but this caused a huge problem when the air control would jam, you'd literally have to split apart the entire stove to get in there and repair it. So they added that plate in the mid-1990's, as a repair access hole. It should always be installed (with 4mm gasket, I think) when running the stove.
The grate works best if you let some ash accumulate on it, rather than raking it thru. But of course, if you've closed yours off completely, even better. The ash pan doors can leak, and even localized air currents within the ash pan tray don't help long burns.
The grate works best if you let some ash accumulate on it, rather than raking it thru. But of course, if you've closed yours off completely, even better. The ash pan doors can leak, and even localized air currents within the ash pan tray don't help long burns.
Thanks! Yes, that's right, under the plate, there is the air mechanism that moves itself with the only front air control, with gasket. Initially my grate for the ash was open, because I didn't load the stove full and without air from below the fire died then I started loading the stove full and yes, it works great.
I was thinking of giving it a try, loading the stove full, and place a perforated plate on large logs on the bottom, and starting from the top, this should prolong the burning time, the fire should move from top back to front, then go down to the floor and back to the bottom. today i will try
The air control slider mechanism is under the doghouse at the bottom front of the stove. Our F400 ran best when I stopped using the ashpan and let that fill up with ash. The burns were longer and more even-tempered.
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