RSF Opel 2000 secondary air questions/story, kind off long

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jjfmetal said:
Wonder if a guy could cut one of these to fit on top the metal baffle and also add the insulation blanket? Lynn Universal Baffle Board, Superwool, 2100F, 21'' x 11-3/4'' x 1/2'' Amazon product ASIN B0716M86PQ
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Yeh I'm sure it could be cut . I was thinking of laying the baffle under the metal one. Run it out a hair further then the metal one to really redirect the smoke right over the secondary air tube.
One question is how to mount it. I was thinking of just adding fitlre brick on top of the stoves brick. Maybe cut if I need too. The set baffle right on top. What do you think?

There is a reason why they changed their baffle set up I'm eager to match mine sd close as I can to the newer stoves

When are you going to be picking up that Opel 200?
 
Crocks said:
Yeh I'm sure it could be cut . I was thinking of laying the baffle under the metal one. Run it out a hair further then the metal one to really redirect the smoke right over the secondary air tube.
One question is how to mount it. I was thinking of just adding fitlre brick on top of the stoves brick. Maybe cut if I need too. The set baffle right on top. What do you think?

There is a reason why they changed their baffle set up I'm eager to match mine sd close as I can to the newer stoves

When are you going to be picking up that Opel 200?
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I'm interested in doing that as well, we need Das jugghead to take a picture of the inside of his! I'm picking mine up tomorrow . Will send pic of the inlet damper, let me know if you want any other pictures
 
jjfmetal said:
I'm interested in doing that as well, we need Das jugghead to take a picture of the inside of his! I'm picking mine up tomorrow . Will send pic of the inlet damper, let me know if you want any other pictures
Click to expand...

I don't think Das has an opel. I don't think any opels came with more than one secondary air tube
 
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Crocks said:
I don't think Das has an opel. I don't think any opels came with more than one secondary air tube
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In the picture with the metal baffle It looks like(the few pieces that are left) they had one of those ceramic baffles on top of the metal baffle
 

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Hey I see the air screw in URS too. I'm curious to see if u I'll be able to damper it at all with that screw in there. It looks to be in the same actually location as mine.


And that stuff on top of the metal baffle is old Ash.
 
I ended up returning the secondary tubes in my stove to their stock position with the exception of the back tube which still has the holes pointing down. While rotating all three tubes to face down or back in the firebox did produce a stupid amount of heat I was loading the stove every 4 hours. Currently about four hours in on this load and the firebox is still about a quarter full along with house temperatures holding steady at 73 degrees. All the same it was an interesting test that may yield some usable experience.
 
Crocks said:
Hey I see the air screw in URS too. I'm curious to see if u I'll be able to damper it at all with that screw in there. It looks to be in the same actually location as mine.


And that stuff on top of the metal baffle is old Ash.
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I looked inside the air inlet and when i move the lever you can see that screw stops the damper from closing all the way. Also noticed the damper is not a full circle it has a flat spot on top
Crocks said:
Yes my opel looks similar. I cannot tell u if yours should have the small metal baffle like mine or the cocrete one. Do you know if yours is an opel 2000 Opel 2 or Opel AP?

I can tell you that your stove had a catalytic converter installed at one time. Myself I would not re order the catalytic converter till u have tested the stove and go from there. A local stove shop said it's not worth the money. But hey if it icreases efficiency like someone above said it would I'd be all for it. So please if you do by one please do it after u have tested and can tell me how it increased your stoves burn times and heat outputs..


Don't let that lil bit of surface rust worry you no big deal. If it's only surface that thing has decades of heating still left in her. I'll take a pic right now because I just woke up and the fire place is just hardly cool enough for me to stick phone inView attachment 255549View attachment 255549View attachment 255550
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Hey Crocks does your Opel have the Firebricks in the bottom, I noticed the kit i was gonna buy said complete firebrick kit for the 2000 but it was only 6 brick for the back and sides?
 
jjfmetal said:
I looked inside the air inlet and when i move the lever you can see that screw stops the damper from closing all the way. Also noticed the damper is not a full circle it has a flat spot on top

Hey Crocks does your Opel have the Firebricks in the bottom, I noticed the kit i was gonna buy said complete firebrick kit for the 2000 but it was only 6 brick for the back and sides?
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No it does not have fire brick in the bottom that is the correct one.


When are you going to be firing the stove off? I'm excited I think you're the only other person I know that hasn't Opel 2000
 
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Das Jugghead said:
I ended up returning the secondary tubes in my stove to their stock position with the exception of the back tube which still has the holes pointing down. While rotating all three tubes to face down or back in the firebox did produce a stupid amount of heat I was loading the stove every 4 hours. Currently about four hours in on this load and the firebox is still about a quarter full along with house temperatures holding steady at 73 degrees. All the same it was an interesting test that may yield some usable experience.
Click to expand...

Yeah from my experience pointing any secondary towards the fuel source puts off a lot of heat but really limits your Burn time.

What kind of stove do you have? could you please send me a picture of the secondary air tubes in your stove

I'm currently rounding up some stainless steel piping to make a four tube secondaryburner for my stove
 
Crocks said:
Well boss how'd she burn.? Did u put a section of stove pipe on top before u fired it off ??
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I sold it! lol nah she did great imo! Comparing it to my woodstove that i have now quadra fire millenium 4300 ( wife wants a damn fireplace) I put a 6' section of 6'' pipe up and I think it did well 6 -7 hr burn time in the yard windy as hell was kinda impressed.
 
jjfmetal said:
I sold it! lol nah she did great imo! Comparing it to my woodstove that i have now quadra fire millenium 4300 ( wife wants a damn fireplace) I put a 6' section of 6'' pipe up and I think it did well 6 -7 hr burn time in the yard windy as hell was kinda impressed.
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Wait wait wait. U say 6-7 hr burn time. Now how long did u see flame? What are u burning. How big of a load? Did you mean after 7 hrs no coals left??
 
jjfmetal said:
It's at least 15' it does clear the ridge
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My old house I had 10' of 6" adapted to my Fisher stove that has a 8" collar. Drafted good had no problem lighting a fire.

This stove with 8" and a lil longer drafts better for sure . I think it would work but with both doors open you may get a little smoke in the house. I rarley ever have both doors open only when reloading.and my coals Are not putting of any smoke to worry about.
I say toss it in and try it . I think I may be a lil more excited than you!!! . Are you going to be framing the Opel in and doing ant facial work ?
 
Crocks said:
My old house I had 10' of 6" adapted to my Fisher stove that has a 8" collar. Drafted good had no problem lighting a fire.

This stove with 8" and a lil longer drafts better for sure . I think it would work but with both doors open you may get a little smoke in the house. I rarley ever have both doors open only when reloading.and my coals Are not putting of any smoke to worry about.
I say toss it in and try it . I think I may be a lil more excited than you!!! . Are you going to be framing the Opel in and doing ant facial work ?
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Nice good info, yes I will be framing in and doing some type of fake stone. I was really thinking about welding a piece of metal on the inside where the warping seems to happen on these stoves
 
jjfmetal said:
Nice good info, yes I will be framing in and doing some type of fake stone. I was really thinking about welding a piece of metal on the inside where the warping seems to happen on these stoves
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Mine warps a little although I did learn. On the right hand door; the upper hinge I swing in tight. The lower one out a ways . This forces the upper left corner of the right hand door tight. When the stove is cold I can't completely close the handle. After it's a lil warm I can. And it keeps a good tight seal now .
 
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