Time required to split a cord

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I really dont care how long it takes me to split a cord.

Me either. I split by hand, as needed. Of course I'm not usually starting with logs or rounds, but with splits that need to be resplit... Right now I do have a face cord of rounds that need to be split and restacked. I'll take some time on a couple of spring days to do it. No rush...won't be burning it for a couple of years. :)
 
Same here; I need to split about 3 cords a year. It's convenient to spread it out over a few days. Gets me out of the house, keeps me off the streets ;-)

As it'll sit for three years, it's not that important that it be done "now". One spring is more than sufficient to get it all done. So no hurries. I take it easy and enjoy the work.
 
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I really dont care how long it takes me to split a cord.
I understand your point, but the OP does care, which is why they asked. Maybe they’re planning a rental, and need to budget for a given amount to be split.
 
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I'm not in a hurry either, as I have plenty of wood. I just work at a pace comfortable to me. I do want to be done splitting and out of the woods before the ticks/skeeters come out and temps get too warm though!
 
If your going to rent a splitter and already have logs bucked and ready to rock and roll, try splitting by hand as much as possible, if a log gives you a hard time then cast it off to the side for the splitter, you will be amazed at how much can get done by hand without much effort. Now if your pile is all elm or knotty pine then I gave you bad advice, but if its maple, ash or fairly straight grain oak you can put a big dent in the pile before you need hydraulics.
 
My back hurts just looking at how low that splitter is.
I'm pretty sure i could hand split a big pile of those pieces 2 or 3 time faster than that splitter, As could everyone else who hand splits. And with no gas and only the noise from a bunch of "cracks" .
 
I'm pretty sure i could hand split a big pile of those pieces 2 or 3 time faster than that splitter, As could everyone else who hand splits. And with no gas and only the noise from a bunch of "cracks" .
*satisfying* noise that is...
 
I'm pretty sure i could hand split a big pile of those pieces 2 or 3 time faster than that splitter, As could everyone else who hand splits. And with no gas and only the noise from a bunch of "cracks" .
Depends on how much volume you’re doing. I was trying to split more than ten cords per year, and doing all but the most gnarly parts of it with a 6 lb splitting axe (or a very shapely narrow maul), for a few years in my late 30’s. It worked great, and was a real pleasure, until I began to develop shoulder problems from so much repetition.

I rented a splitter one weekend per year, my first three years with the stoves, mostly aimed at splitting the stuff I had set aside as too gnarly for the maul. But I found that I was doing less with the axe and pushing more thru the rented splitter, each year. After some lamenting over “giving up”, I went and bought my own splitter. It took several years for my shoulders to stop bothering me, probably due to never really taking a proper break, but they did mostly recover.
 
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Depends on how much volume you’re doing. I was trying to split more than ten cords per year, and doing all but the most gnarly parts of it with a 6 lb splitting axe (or a very shapely narrow maul), for a few years in my late 30’s. It worked great, and was a real pleasure, until I began to develop shoulder problems from so much repetition.

I rented a splitter one weekend per year, my first three years with the stoves, mostly aimed at splitting the stuff I had set aside as too gnarly for the maul. But I found that I was doing less with the axe and pushing more thru the rented splitter, each year. After some lamenting over “giving up”, I went and bought my own splitter. It took several years for my shoulders to stop bothering me, probably due to never really taking a proper break, but they did mostly recover.
Shoulder injuries usually take such a long time to recover, glad yours is better. For me picking up anything from the ground is no good for my back, so splitter is no good for me. Hand splitting i think actually strengthens my back and helps with hand eye coordination and stamina and strength. That helps keep my paddle tennis game at a high enough level to play with the pros. It's all a big circle on what works for each individual. Hand splitting also good for baseball, hockey, tennis, lax players and gym rats.
 
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It's all a big circle on what works for each individual. Hand splitting also good for baseball, hockey, tennis, lax players and gym rats.
I think the key variable missing in my operation is "moderation". If I were splitting 3 - 4 cords per year, like any normal sane homeowner, I'd likely still be doing it by hand. It's much more pleasurable to breath fresh air and listen to the birds, while whacking wood with a splitting axe, than wearing ear plugs and breathing exhaust while humping rounds onto a splitter.

Now, if we want to get back to the question of "time to split a cord", we can't ignore the factor of splitter speed. A few above have already posted on kinetic splitters, but other than my one mention of the fast-cycle Iron and Oak, I didn't see anyone mention fast hydraulic splitters. So, let me give my quick opinion on it.

As already mentioned, the kinetic splitters cannot be beat for speed, if you have a lot of straight and easy splitting wood. Of course, as others above have already argued, and I'd agree with them to some extent, you might consider just sticking with hand splitting for your straight wood. There are plenty of videos on youtube, and even one or two by one of our espresso-loving regulars, showing just how fast you can split straight clean rounds by hand.

Hydraulics, on the other hand, will go thru absolutely anything. I think it's Jags or Highbeam, who love to post a photo of one experience thy had with some particularly gnarly elm. But most affordable hydraulic splitters are painfully slow, like worse than molasses in January slow. Plenty of folks are happy enough to work slow and easy, especially the retired among us, but it's not for everyone. Certainly not for me.

This brings up the third option: fast-cycle hydraulics. Whereas most hydraulic splitters have cycle times listed around 11-12 seconds, numbers that are actually a bit optimistic if you ever take the opportunity to time them on your own (I have), there are some hydraulic splitters that have full cycle times as short as 6 seconds. This is typically achieved by a combination of increased pump and decreased cylinder sizing, for a given HP engine.

Most common among these is the Iron and Oak fast-cycle 19 ton (later re-badged 20 ton, then discontinued) machine, with it's little 3.5" cylinder and 16 GPM pump. I rented one of these several years in a row, and later found my own Huskee 22-ton (11 GPM / 4" cyl) so painfully slow by comparison, that I ended up hot-rodding my own splitter for better cycle time. Now I'm getting the same cycle time as the old I/O "fast cycle", but with a 4" cylinder that doesn't get stuck in the gnarly stuff that caused the 3.5" I/O to fail, albeit with a larger engine, more noise, and (probably) more fuel consumption.
 
Gosh you have a lot of study into that and that's typical of most Philly people for they soon learn to focus and really solve some problems..clancey
 
This brings up the third option: fast-cycle hydraulics. Whereas most hydraulic splitters have cycle times listed around 11-12 seconds, numbers that are actually a bit optimistic if you ever take the opportunity to time them on your own (I have), there are some hydraulic splitters that have full cycle times as short as 6 seconds. This is typically achieved by a combination of increased pump and decreased cylinder sizing, for a given HP engine.

I have a cheap sub 9.5 sec, 40ton hydraulic. WAY overkill for what I need, but I got it for $800 brand new after I complained about some very minor shipping damage.

 
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1. how long to split cord or face cord tossed to a pile
I used to rent a splitter, 4hrs - 1/2 hr set up, and get 2.5 full cord done. 24ton iron oak.
2. split length
20" lengths
3. split size (tends to be small, average or large?)
Average 16-20"dia rounds, 4-6" splits
4. alone or with helper
Alone

About .7 cord/hr, if I busted my butt, easy silver maple, no beer, no breaks. And then end up with a 24hr bent over old man look. Now that I've bought a splitter, the work is far easier, seems like I don't get anything done (splitting), but the reality is I get more done overall.
 
I have a cheap sub 9.5 sec, 40ton hydraulic. WAY overkill for what I need, but I got it for $800 brand new after I complained about some very minor shipping damage.

That's an impressive spec, what size cylinder bore do they ship on that thing? At 25 GPM, you'd need a 5 inch cylinder to hit those cycle times on a 26" stroke, but you'd never get anywhere close to 40 tons at the typical 3000 psi where most of these pumps bypass. Something doesn't add up, but that's sadly typical of TSC store-brand splitter specs, including the one I bought.
 
That's an impressive spec, what size cylinder bore do they ship on that thing? At 25 GPM, you'd need a 5 inch cylinder to hit those cycle times on a 26" stroke, but you'd never get anywhere close to 40 tons at the typical 3000 psi where most of these pumps bypass. Something doesn't add up, but that's sadly typical of TSC store-brand splitter specs, including the one I bought.

It's 5 1/8"

I know what you mean about how something doesn't add up. My cycle time is sub 9.5sec., so that does check out I did the math and thought the same thing about tonnage....until I installed a pressure gauge and saw what they had the bypass set to! It probably was set to around 3,800psi.....as when I initially tested the pressure it absolutely buried my 3,000psi gauge before I even had a chance to quickly let off. As soon as the pump hit the second stage it pretty much immediately pegged the gauge needle. I have since backed it down to a bit over 3,000psi on my guage......so I am right around 30+ tons area before it bypasses.

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Nice! If you could find a 4" cylinder with a 1.75" rod and 1" ports, you could get that thing down to 5.7 seconds cycle time at 24 tons. That's actually what I was targeting when I did my own mod's, but I never did find an affordable 4" cylinder with 1" ports, so I ended up downsizing to a 16 GPM pump (over-spun to 19 GPM @ 3600 RPM) and 7.5 second cycle time on my stock 4" cylinder.
 
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I understand your point, but the OP does care, which is why they asked. Maybe they’re planning a rental, and need to budget for a given amount to be split.
I hear what your saying.. but also there are times being posted that are pretty unrealistic, which doesn't help the OP neither.
 
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Nice! If you could find a 4" cylinder with a 1.75" rod and 1" ports, you could get that thing down to 5.7 seconds cycle time at 24 tons. That's actually what I was targeting when I did my own mod's, but I never did find an affordable 4" cylinder with 1" ports, so I ended up downsizing to a 16 GPM pump (over-spun to 19 GPM @ 3600 RPM) and 7.5 second cycle time on my stock 4" cylinder.

Yeah, the thought crossed my mind to throw on the smaller cylinder from my Speeco just to see what times I could get. I don't know if you saw my post on the 1st page, but going from a 12sec Speeco to what I have now increased my output as shown below. The first one is the first year I used the CL, and the second is from when I used my Speeco.

1646781982840.png
 
Yeah, the thought crossed my mind to throw on the smaller cylinder from my Speeco just to see what times I could get. I don't know if you saw my post on the 1st page, but going from a 12sec Speeco to what I have now increased my output as shown below. The first one is the first year I used the CL, and the second is from when I used my Speeco.

View attachment 293243
Very cool! I don't think I'm working as fast as you. :(

Most 25 GPM pumps specify plumbing at least 3/4" (if not 1") on the high pressure side, and pretty much all 4" x 24" cylinders I could find had only 1/2" NPT (or SAE-8/10) ports. Also, in my case, I think the bung on my reservoir was a bit small for the suction line on a pump that big, but I'd be interested to know the sizing on yours. I'm not sure what would happen if you tried to push that much fluid thru 1/2" cylinder ports, surely some pressure drop (esp. on cold days!), but would it be enough to push the pump into low gear or otherwise negate the advantage of the reduced cylinder volume?

If you weren't so far away, I'd be tempted to swap my cylinder onto your splitter, or your pump onto mine but maybe I just pick up a 22-gal pump at TSC or ebay to give it a try (overspun 20%, of course).

In keeping with woodsplitter67's post immediately above, we should also be sure the OP (and others) understand that hours on the hour meter of the splitter are only one part of several steps in processing firewood. I stack right off the running splitter, but I shut it down to fetch and buck the next log, others may shut down to stack or move a pile.
 
Most 25 GPM pumps specify plumbing at least 3/4" (if not 1") on the high pressure side, and pretty much all 4" x 24" cylinders I could find had only 1/2" NPT (or SAE-8/10) ports. Also, in my case, I think the bung on my reservoir was a bit small for the suction line on a pump that big, but I'd be interested to know the sizing on yours. I'm not sure what would happen if you tried to push that much fluid thru 1/2" cylinder ports, surely some pressure drop (esp. on cold days!), but would it be enough to push the pump into low gear or otherwise negate the advantage of the reduced cylinder volume?

If you weren't so far away, I'd be tempted to swap my cylinder onto your splitter, or your pump onto mine but maybe I just pick up a 22-gal pump at TSC or ebay to give it a try (overspun 20%, of course).

When I swapped out the OEM filter and housing with -THIS- housing and a larger Zinga filter and also added the fittings for my pressure gauge, I used to know what sizes they were. I can't remember now. I believe they all are at least 3/4" though. I do remember thinking that the inlet for the return line into the tank seemed awfully small to me though. When the splitter retracts, the motor is actually under load and my pressure gauge reads a couple hundred PSI. This always made me wonder if the restriction was in the return line at the inlet to the tank....or maybe at the control valve....?

The bushing/reducer on the inlet side of the photo below is a 1 1/4" male x 3/4" female. So, the OEM setup, had that 3/4" male that fits into the 1 1/4" male x 3/4" female bushing on the inlet side of the filter housing actually mated up at the tank......so the tank inlet is 3/4" NPT as well.



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Very cool! I don't think I'm working as fast as you. :(

In keeping with woodsplitter67's post immediately above, we should also be sure the OP (and others) understand that hours on the hour meter of the splitter are only one part of several steps in processing firewood. I stack right off the running splitter, but I shut it down to fetch and buck the next log, others may shut down to stack or move a pile.

My splitter only runs when I am splitting, so it doesn't include any stacking time.
 
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Motor load may reflect a restriction on the suction side, but I wouldn't expect the pressure gauge to be any good indicator of that restriction. I would expect a restriction on the intake side would actually result in lower pressure at the gauge, if making any impact at all, but that's just a gut feeling not based on actually drawing this out and looking very closely at it.
 
Motor load may reflect a restriction on the suction side, but I wouldn't expect the pressure gauge to be any good indicator of that restriction. I would expect a restriction on the intake side would actually result in lower pressure at the gauge, if making any impact at all, but that's just a gut feeling not based on actually drawing this out and looking very closely at it.

Very true, pressure on the low side (return) from any restriction of the return would not show up on the gauge, which is measuring high side.

You can probably hear and and maybe even see the gauge move when it retracts on my video I posted earlier in this thread of me using it.
 
You can probably hear and and maybe even see the gauge move when it retracts on my video I posted earlier in this thread of me using it.
Funny story... I just tried watching that video. Unfortunately, I had just polished off an excellent martini, and the POV in that video just about ruined it for me. My head is spinning, I will have to try again, later.

In case interested, since it's infinitely more interesting than anything having to do with splitting wood, the martini was:

2 oz. Bombay Sapphire (thanks, begreen!)
1 oz. Carpano Dry Vermouth
1 dash Angostura Orange Bitters
2 large crisp Mezzetta Martini Olives soaked in vermouth

Swirl with ice, pour, enjoy.
 
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Funny story... I just tried watching that video. Unfortunately, I had just polished off an excellent martini, and the POV in that video just about ruined it for me. My head is spinning, I will have to try again, later.

In case interested, since it's infinitely more interesting than anything having to do with splitting wood, the martini was:

2 oz. Bombay Sapphire (thanks, begreen!)
1 oz. Carpano Dry Vermouth
1 dash Angostura Orange Bitters
2 large crisp Mezzetta Martini Olives soaked in vermouth

Swirl with ice, pour, enjoy.
Sigh.
Bourbon here. No splitting for me (no tools w/ potential hazards after C2H5OH, unless diluted sufficiently, aka 1 or 2 beers).
 
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