trying to fit 6" pipe into my insert please help

[feartheride]

I have a haughs wood stove ,I was told they were sold by Canadian tire in Canada.
My question is I am told that the flex liner goes into a 6" pipe and the ribbed end of the pipe goes inte the wod stove insert.Not going to happen the ribbed portion of the pipe is designed to go into a 6" pipe and the hole in my insert is 5 7/8".This company must have sold a bastardized piece designed to fit in here.The fellow at the local wood stove store gave me a piece of 6" and we used crimpers to make the end smaller but it still barely fits in and it leaves gaps which i am not thrilled about.Is there some way of sealing this if I can not find another solution.Or is there a better solution.I have apiece of pipe on the end of the liner that looks like it would fit but it is not long enough so I am trying to extend it
The first pic shows the pipe in the insert ,the scond shows the piece that is on the end of the flex liner

 

[Hogwildz]

there might be an adapter made for the liner to slide into and then adapter into the stove. A stove collar typically does this job. Search those.

 

[Roospike]

Is this a insert going into a fireplace ?

What is the deal with the posted pic ?

BTW Welcome to the hearth forum.

 

[Andre B.]

and the hole in my insert is 5 7/8".This company must have sold a bastardized piece designed to fit in here.

5 7/8" is 149.225mm

I wonder if 150mm is the standard pipe size in the rest of the world?

I do know the collar on my Drolet was a very tight fit and it come out of Canada. Had to recrimp the pipe a bit more and then put a board over the top and use a dead blow hammer to put the first length into the stove, it's not coming out without a fight.

 

[feartheride]

Is this a insert going into a fireplace ?

What is the deal with the posted pic ?

BTW Welcome to the hearth forum.

Yes it is an insert going into a fireplace .What you see in the pic is where there was a hole throgh into the wall when i removed the old insert .I will fave to fill and parge with concrete

None of the fireplace stores near me have been able to give me any ideas

 

[Roospike]

yes sir , Ya better get that hole / cracked fixed ASAP .

Does your insert and liner line up ? There is also an off set adapter box for inserts .

Another question , I edited your other pic ........is that a wood frame around your fireplace?

 

[Roospike]

Also what material is this white ?

 

[feartheride]

yes liner lines up
yes wood will be repaced with steel studs and i guess I have to use concrete board
White material is just some ash residue on the steel frame that use to have the flap in it
You have a keen eye,thanks for the help
So do you think it will be o.k. to use this 6" extension piece,like I said after recrimping it to make it fit it leaves little gaps between the pipe and hole in insert.They tell me it will be fine the smoke will take the path of least resistance.My old insert has a flap that you can close off the flue the new (to me) one does not is that normal

 

[elkimmeg]

look to the right of the picture as right edge of the pipe and see the char mark on the wood above the partically rusted out angle iron.
My last comment on this post. God I hope he has good homeowners insurance

what about installing an insert in a comprosised fire box? Those pictures do not look like a healthy situation lof of rust in there

I have never seen knots in bricks?

 

[feartheride]

No wood in that pic and rust is only surface rust

 

[Gooserider]

1. There should be some MECHANICAL fastening between the pipe and the stove. Normally there should be a stove collar sticking up that the pipe fits into. You would put three screws through the collar into the pipe. Alternatively, I've heard some stoves have angle brackets that go between the stove top and the pipe - however it is done, there should be a mechanical connection, not just a friction fit.

2. The pipe should fit into the connector as far as the rib above the crimps, and there should be no crimps showing. Some stoves have stops that keep the pipe from going in the 1.5" normally used for the crimps - in that case you should trim the crimp end off so that it can be pushed in up to the rib. (BTW ALL single wall pipe joints should be up to the rib with no crimps showing, and secured with three screws, it is usually only the stove where this is a problem)

3. When doing the final assembly, put a bead of refractory cement around the joint as you are pushing the pipe in, so that the connection is thouroughly sealed. Do this at all joints to ensure that they are air tight - there should be NO gaps or other holes where smoke can leak out, or air can leak in. Holes are a safety problem as they can admit CO if the draft becomes obstructed. Also they allow air to enter the pipe cooling the smoke and encouraging creosote buildup. Holes at the stove outlet can possibly allow excess air into the secondary combustion chamber and cause overfiring issues.

4. It looks to me like that firebox needs some SERIOUS attention to make sure it is repaired and brought up to code - no wood, cracks and holes fixed, etc.

Gooserider

 

[feartheride]

Thank you goose rider,very informative
I repaired the firebox last night
As far as the joint goes ot the insert I have come to the conclusion that the company (Haughs) that made the stove probablly had there own insert that went in the top because a 6" will only fit after it is recrimped and does not fit all the way in.I believe they are out of buisiness now.So unless someone noes where you can get one i will have to make do and try to seal the joint the best I can

 

[Gooserider]

A couple thoughts that you might try - no promise that they'd work - but it sounds like you need something a bit smaller diameter than the usual 6" steel pipe....

They make "thimble insert pipes" that are designed to slide into a steel thimble in a fireplace - I think some of these may be a bit smaller than 6" diameter.

Some companies make "slip pipe" setups to allow one to custom fit the length of single wall needed for an application without having to cut the pipe to fit. I don't know it's exact ID, but it might be possible to use the inside peice of one of those slip setups.

Talk to any local dealers to see what they suggest - a couple folks earlier suggested that the Euro-brand stoves might be most likely for this as it's possible your fitting is a metric equivalent to 6"

At any rate, whatever you come up with the important things are that it be mechanically fastened and well sealed.

Gooserider

 

[stoveguy2esw]

simpson duravent makes a "stovetop adapter" for flue openings that are sligtly less than 6" (simpson stock # 1677) (broken link removed to http://www.duravent.com/docs/Catalogs/L930.pdf) here is link to catalog you will find this part on page 27, may just be what you are lookinig for to connect with.