I have had this year some REALLY dry Ash wood that has caused some very high (1000) degree flu temps. this is if the actual log was touching the back wall of the stove low enough to the holes at the bottom. very loud rumble. to fix it i would open the door and move the wood off the wall. i stopped using that wood and stick mostly with oak...it burns slower i guess so the temp stay aroun500-550 in the stove pipe.
Vermont Castings Blowtorch Sound on Reload
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no, on the inside of the double wall. i have the thermometer that goes inside the pipe 18inches above the stove.
Oh ok. Lol. That would have been crazy.
Do you get black glass on the top of the glass? I get it in the same spot on my stove every burn.
i get black glass yes. its in a pattern though. def behind the andirons. i stopped cleaning it, it doesnt matter what i do it gets black. the dryness of the wood is a big factor. my wood is good this year but in years past the only clean glass burns i had were when i added a sawdust tractor supply log to the fire. i would wake up to perfect glass. i think i cleaned my glass so often that i made an air leak between the glass and the door.
Yeah, if you look at the attachment on the last post, it's black from one clip to the other, door to door. Makes a semi circle. I can't figure it out. I do have air getting in from the top lid. I confirmed it with a smoke test. The dealer has been useless though. Won't get back to me.
i havent gone to the dealer at all. i figured all the issues i was having was "operator error" but clearly its not with everyone having the same issue. what i really want is to get another stove completely. something with no cat , maybe with the tubes ....something that makes more sense to me unlike the stupid downdraft. i have friends with 20 and 30 year old stoves that just plain work. this 3000$ POS drives me up the wall every day.
I feel the same way. I don't have the cat in mine yet, I'm hoping that will help. I love the look of the stove, but the way it works is terrible. For 3k, the airwash for the glass should work.
I have about 2 feet of single wall pipe before it gets to my liner, and when I hear the blow torch sound, the highest I've seen it get is 450ish on the outside with an IR thermometer. Is it not common to see the flue temps skyrocket during an over fire in the combustion chamber? The manual has nothing about how to run the stove without a cat, so when I read about the blow torch sound being an over fire, I can't help but think they mean when there is a cat installed. Someone in the VC specific forum mention how the combustion chamber wouldn't get to 1200 without a cat. If that's the case, should we even worry about the blowtorch sound when running without a cat? I would measure the temps myself, but my stove is in a fireplace, and I'd have to pull it out to install a probe. A job for the off season.
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The stove design is flawed. There's really no other way to put it. In a lab, controlled setting, maybe it works fine - but for real world environments these are the worst stoves to own apparently. Not only that, VC didnt learn from their mistakes. They continue to fine tune their pig in order to keep their top loading feature a thing. Im finally at a point of acceptance and can operate my stove fairly well, but it does take babysitting and experience to get it to the point that you arent playing what I called...
VC Roulette...what behavior will I land on today.
Overheating the cat is pretty common, but as others have pointed out getting that great bed of coals and catching a load w/ primary open first seems key. Not saying you wont continue to overheat the cat area, but it will be less and less often. Unless of course, you have a 24' chimney or 14.5' or 17% wood instead of 18-20, or it's less than 35% humidity, a quarter moon, a tattoo of a fish on your arm...(list 100 other conditions when the VC just wont work well no matter how hard you try)
Just ask Dale Bowman from saskatchewan canada
. This guy went through the wringer on similarly design VCS.In the end, if I can get my hands on a Jotul at the end of winter I will sell my VC. If anything I can say by then I gave the VC a GOOD try and then try out the Jotul and compare my experiences. I dont see many people complaining about those, and it's less expensive. Go figure.
Edit: Im not saying I hate the VC. Im very happy that I feel like I figured out how to operate this stove quite well, with clean glass and a fairly clear flue pipe when it's operated within a very strict set of parameters, that are fairly easy to keep within as long as you do not disregard warning signs and pay extra attention through the first few hours of a cold startup. However, I do have to consider that other members of my family should be able to operate this with some level of ease and free of fearlessness. I also have that itch to find out if this stove is really that much of a POS, or if it is possibly all EPA stoves.
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i bought the cat, it was no help. 300 bucks down the drain.i should have kept my money.
Yea I felt the same way. When I first started telling my tale of woes in these forums, it was usually met with ah check your wood, check your draft, check your wood again, operator error, several others have stoves like yours and they use them fine it must be you.
Well, they werent all wrong, it was me to some degree. I just didnt realize that some of what I was doing was the opposite of what I should be. And thinking that I was going to run the stove sub 450 and not create alot of creosote was a farce that I believed due to a couple of sales pitches, that I WANTED to listen to because I really liked the VC and the top loading.
The cat, for me, really didnt do much. I can say that I noticed less smoke but not a significant amount less when burning low. SO I set out to figure out how to burn as cleanly as possible without it keeping it warmer. I will reserve the cat for the times that I really want to burn but it's not that super cold outside and I want to let it burn around 400 STT all the time.
yeah...top loading and smoking out your house hahaha !
i run mine whatever temp it gets to while dampered down to the 3rd click. thats it,every time.all coals to the back, 2 or 3 good size pieces and 3 clicks. usually about 500or so SST plus the flue and Cat temp gauge in the middle of the range. cat thermometer is in but no cat.i would take it out but then id just have an empty hole in the side of the stove.
I will likely put my cat back in, now that I know that I get a 'free' one if this one fails within 6 years.
I should add, I do not have the problem of smoking coming in from the top hatch, unless of course I forget to open the primary. If I have nothing but coals though, I can open and toss a couple splits in even with the primary closed. Sometimes yes, if the wood is really smoking and I open the primary, and then the top hatch I'll get some smoke coming in. Usually I can foresee that happening though and I then just crack the lid open, wait a second or two, then open it a bit more, wait a second, then open it enough to do what it is I meant to do.
Up until a week ago I was burning without the cat. Temps on my auber are all over the place, sometimes maxing out around 1700 but not for long. I always figured the probe was in the flames. Now that I have the cat the stove is much more controlable.
That's interesting because you would think that further combustion would create higher heat.
I really didnt notice a difference to be honest, nothing that I could change with air control. With the cat in, I may have run a click lower, and that's likely because I have a big hunk of metal in the way now.
Yup, throw some wood in, close the damper, & watch the temp on the auber launch. It will settle down after a few minutes. What puzzles me is the occasional spike in temps that occur 3-4 hours after loading it for the night. Stove top, pipe, & auber will get up to the max. It hasn't happened sence I put the cat in.
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