HIGHEST STOVE TEMPS, WHO HAS EM?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Well then, burn away! Like I've said before, I just can't imagine running one on high all the time intentionally, one is completely missing out on the benefit of owning a BK. To each his own
I guess I don't see it that way. I view it as it's your loss. Let me put it this way, if I have to run the stove constantly on high output regardless if it's the King or any other large stove who's the winner? I'd say the king because it has a higher efficiency rating than the other comparable stoves. Maybe not in emmissions but HHV and LHV efficiency is typically higher. Beyond that, when it comes to shoulder season BK is the clear winner. Just because I can't run the stove half throttle to meet my heating demands through most of the season doesn't mean I'm missing out. At some point in the season I will be able to take advantage of that low burn, just not right now.
 
No neither of us ever said anything like that at all. I cant speak for squisher but I can tell you that what I said was that my house has a high heat load because of that I would not be running a bk low and slow. Because of that I dont see any reason to spend the extra money one a stove that excells at something I don't need it to do. ....
What stove do you have and where is it installed in your house?

I wish you could demo stoves for a few weeks before making a purchase to find out what one works the best for your setup but it doesn't work like that.

From the best I can tell the King's output matches the other large stoves on the market. The Quad Adventure III has slightly more firebox to it and is only $500 less. Is it worth the extra $500 for the ability to burn low and slow if needed? Is the extra efficiency worth anything?

Yes there are other comparable stoves for less money but I read durability is not equivalent to the King. That should factor in somewhere too right?

Unless there is large stove that can burn the doors off the King, and I mean BTU/hr performance not low and slow burns, that is half the price and still in the upper 70% efficiency then I don't consider $500 real significant on something I plan to own for half a life time.
 
I guess I don't see it that way. I view it as it's your loss. Let me put it this way, if I have to run the stove constantly on high output regardless if it's the King or any other large stove who's the winner? I'd say the king because it has a higher efficiency rating than the other comparable stoves. Maybe not in emmissions but HHV and LHV efficiency is typically higher. Beyond that, when it comes to shoulder season BK is the clear winner. Just because I can't run the stove half throttle to meet my heating demands through most of the season doesn't mean I'm missing out. At some point in the season I will be able to take advantage of that low burn, just not right now.
I get ya. I suppose there's no way a non-cat could be left to run on high without melting down. And would have terribly low burn times. Makes more sense now, thanks.
 
I get ya. I suppose there's no way a non-cat could be left to run on high without melting down. And would have terribly low burn times. Makes more sense now, thanks.
That seems odd to me. What's the maximum safe operating setting for the stove then and how do you know if you exceed it?

It's not all sunshine and daisies. If you have a high heat demand don't expect to get a useful 12 hour burn with the King on high. I could comfortably go 8 hours over night with it on high burning red maple with outside temps as low as 20F. That leaves a healthy bed of coals to refire from. Enough where it's almost about to stall the cat before I rake the coals. If that's not enough heat and you reload too soon to try and keep it operating at peak output then the coals with begin to build up and be a problem.
 
That seems odd to me. What's the maximum safe operating setting for the stove then and how do you know if you exceed it?

It's not all sunshine and daisies. If you have a high heat demand don't expect to get a useful 12 hour burn with the King on high. I could comfortably go 8 hours over night with it on high burning red maple with outside temps as low as 20F. That leaves a healthy bed of coals to refire from. Enough where it's almost about to stall the cat before I rake the coals. If that's not enough heat and you reload too soon to try and keep it operating at peak output then the coals with begin to build up and be a problem.
Non cats are completely at the mercy of their setup. Some draft poorly and may not get out of control. Most though, will go completely out of control "nuclear " if left unattended. Particularly if you reload on hot coal bed. Seriously, nuclear! You are looking at a few hours in a whole load in the non-cat on high. Their air controls are simply a hole in the bottom of the stove that's metered with a blockage of some sort of "air control" lever. If left on high the temps just keep climbing until the fuel is reduced.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Highbeam
Non cats are completely at the mercy of their setup. Some draft poorly and may not get out of control. Most though, will go completely out of control "nuclear " if left unattended. Particularly if you reload on hot coal bed. Seriously, nuclear! You are looking at a few hours in a whole load in the non-cat on high. Their air controls are simply a hole in the bottom of the stove that's metered with a blockage of some sort of "air control" lever. If left on high the temps just keep climbing until the fuel is reduced.



No, that just happen with cheap non-cat.lol
 
No, that just happen with cheap non-cat.lol
Not true. It happens with a lot of them, depending on the flue.
Except for Hearthstone, all the heats going up the flue anyway!;lol
 
Non cats are completely at the mercy of their setup. Some draft poorly and may not get out of control. Most though, will go completely out of control "nuclear " if left unattended. Particularly if you reload on hot coal bed. Seriously, nuclear! You are looking at a few hours in a whole load in the non-cat on high. Their air controls are simply a hole in the bottom of the stove that's metered with a blockage of some sort of "air control" lever. If left on high the temps just keep climbing until the fuel is reduced.
Seems unfortunate they can figure out a way to use some sort of thermostat to control max output. That was a significant reason I went with a King. My old non EPA stove had a bimetallic thermostat on the air inlet and it made for nice even heat.

Talk about surface heat! Imagine your whole stove being above 500F and parts as high as 700F!
 
Seems unfortunate they can figure out a way to use some sort of thermostat to control max output. That was a significant reason I went with a King. My old non EPA stove had a bimetallic thermostat on the air inlet and it made for nice even heat.

Talk about surface heat! Imagine your whole stove being above 500F and parts as high as 700F!
My quad will do that! For a very short amount of time. I'm sure it would exceed 1K degrees on top if I let it go! I'll take a stove that's hot on top for 30+ hours than a stove that's hot on all surfaces for 6 hours. Don't get me wrong, my non-cats would heat the joint, I just don't like the temperature swings. With the BK I load once a day, and the inside temps only swing 5-10 degrees on average.

If it ever gets cold again I'll get some quad surface temps.
 
  • Like
Reactions: brushcll
Not true. It happens with a lot of them, depending on the flue.
Except for Hearthstone, all the heats going up the flue anyway!;lol
I have a question now that you mentioned the flue. My flue about 19' almost 14' counting the cap is chimney. of those 13.5' or so less than 2' goes thru the roof cause it's located almost at the end of the roof pitch in front of the house. I had to braced it good. all that is espoused and is triple wall compact. well insulated
the inside is about 5 feet to stovetop of double wall. Do you think that the excess of draft was cause it was espoused? This is the draft that i used to get with the tube stoves and sometimes more.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20160422_163428317.jpg
    IMG_20160422_163428317.jpg
    66.8 KB · Views: 141
Last edited:
Most though, will go completely out of control "nuclear " if left unattended.
as will any stove including a bk if the bypass is left open. What is the point you are making?
 
as will any stove including a bk if the bypass is left open. What is the point you are making?
A BK will behave itself, most other stoves that are non cat with a conventional air control most often won't. They can't be trusted to run on high without being monitored. What's your point? Of course I meant for the bypass to be closed on a BK...
 
What's your point? Of course I meant for the bypass to be closed on a BK...
So you are assuming the bk owner closes the bypass but the tube stove owner cant close the intake? I took what you said to mean you load it open it up and walk away. And if you do that with any stove it will over fire. If you are saying you need to sit and baby sit non cats to keep them under control that is complete bs I am sorry.
 
So you are assuming the bk owner closes the bypass but the tube stove owner cant close the intake? I took what you said to mean you load it open it up and walk away. And if you do that with any stove it will over fire. If you are saying you need to sit and baby sit non cats to keep them under control that is complete bs I am sorry.
The topic was running on high continuously. Yes, i assume everyone here is running their BK with the bypass closed, no reason to think otherwise. Non cats don't need continuous baby sitting, but I'd never walk away from one left wide open. I've ran about a dozen different ones, none would be trusted even half as much as a BK, the control just isn't there.
 
That may be your experience but so far it's been a non-cat that's posted the highest temp, the point(if there is one) of this thread. I did that with near precision accuracy of max output without overfire. Zero worry of runaway and very controlled.
 
I have a question now that you mentioned the flue. My flue about 19' almost 14' counting the cap is chimney. of those 13.5' or so less than 2' goes thru the roof cause it's located almost at the end of the roof pitch in front of the house. I had to braced it good. all that is espoused and is triple wall compact. well insulated
the inside is about 5 feet to stovetop of double wall. Do you think that the excess of draft was cause it was espoused? This is the draft that i used to get with the tube stoves and sometimes more.

I'm not quite sure what your question is, youbuave some typos and I'm can't make it out. Looking at your draft in your picture, you are way over the max draft listed in the manual. This could cause over fire and short slrun times.

So you are assuming the bk owner closes the bypass but the tube stove owner cant close the intake? I took what you said to mean you load it open it up and walk away. And if you do that with any stove it will over fire. If you are saying you need to sit and baby sit non cats to keep them under control that is complete bs I am sorry.

Idk exactly how your secondary burn stove works but the point was for there to be a secondary burn happening and the stove operating in high demand. For the King, that's bypass closed and air control full open. Even if the bypass was left open it will not run away because the thermostatic air control will still work. You will bust be losing heat directly up the flue.

That may be your experience but so far it's been a non-cat that's posted the highest temp, the point(if there is one) of this thread. I did that with near precision accuracy of max output without overfire. Zero worry of runaway and very controlled.
Didn't look like it to me. Looked like your thermometer read about 750F. Still shy of the 810 on my King and no where near the 835 another member had (I don't think he shared it here, it was in the BK thread....)
.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Squisher
810 as a hotspot on the front is less than 750 stovetop. I think you showed something like 620 stovetop?

And let the posters of the super high temps come forward then. I think I know the pic you mention from the other thread and if memory serves that thermometer is like 1/2" from the flue collar. But post em up! Let the masses decide. Lol.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Marshy
Even if the bypass was left open it will not run away because the thermostatic air control will still work.
Not according to many here including bkvp they all agree if you leave the bypass open you can over fire the stove


The topic was running on high continuously. Yes, i assume everyone here is running their BK with the bypass closed, no reason to think otherwise. Non cats don't need continuous baby sitting, but I'd never walk away from one left wide open. I've ran about a dozen different ones, none would be trusted even half as much as a BK, the control just isn't there.
So you are assuming the bk owner will always close the bypass but the tube stove owner is not competent enough to always close the air down at least half way? You do realize that makes no sense at all right? No matter what stove it is there is a startup procedure that you need to follow if you dont you can over fire.
 
810 as a hotspot on the front is less than 750 stovetop. I think you showed something like 620 stovetop?

And let the posters of the super high temps come forward then. I think I know the pic you mention from the other thread and if memory serves that thermometer is like 1/2" from the flue collar. But post em up! Let the masses decide. Lol.
610 over the cat because I just refueled and at the time of that pic it wasn't up to full temp. Besides, the OP said stove temps not stove top temps so the 810 is fair gsme! ;lol
 
  • Like
Reactions: Squisher
But it does kind of establish who has the hottest temps. The non-cat will, by default of being able to be grossly overfired due to negligence. Following the logic of the thermostat preventing all overfire situations and tube stoves running away at a uncontrollable rate. Obviously a tube stove will be able to get hotter.
 
But it does kind of establish who has the hottest temps. The non-cat will, by default of being able to be grossly overfired due to negligence. Following the logic of the thermostat preventing all overfire situations and tube stoves running away at a uncontrollable rate. Obviously a tube stove will be able to get hotter.
I understood the purpose to be absent of any negligence.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Squisher
Not according to many here including bkvp they all agree if you leave the bypass open you can over fire the stove.
From memory I don't recall that. I know it can damage parts if left open. I'm unaware and dont believe that it will cause an uncontrollable stove as air is still being regulated by the thermostats air control and if the stoves metal temps get hot enough the damper will close.
 
Not according to many here including bkvp they all agree if you leave the bypass open you can over fire the stove



So you are assuming the bk owner will always close the bypass but the tube stove owner is not competent enough to always close the air down at least half way? You do realize that makes no sense at all right? No matter what stove it is there is a startup procedure that you need to follow if you dont you can over fire.
I have no idea what you are trying to get at here. The discussion was about BK owners that run that run their stove on high all the time. I said I don't get that, I've never needed to do that... it was then the topic turned to: can a non-cat be ran wide open like a BK?
 
From memory I don't recall that. I know it can damage parts if left open. I'm unaware and dont believe that it will cause an uncontrollable stove as air is still being regulated by the thermostats air control and if the stoves metal temps get hot enough the damper will close.
On high with the bypass open the stove can be damaged after a period of time. That's why the bypass should be shut once the cat becomes active. The stove is still very controllable though using the thermostat even if the bypass is open. I can nearly squash the fire with the bypass open, but there's no reason to run with the cat bypassed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Squisher and Marshy