2016-17 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)
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jetsam
Minister of Fire
I might be all over a 10cf Blaze King stove with a window, but I don't know how long burns would work out technically. On a 96 hour burn, it seems like maybe the bottom part of the fuel in that big fuelbox might get smothered by ash.
I imagine this could be something they've tested, and I'd be interested to hear about it if so.
I imagine this could be something they've tested, and I'd be interested to hear about it if so.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
We tried to get him to insulate the walls, but the angry ghosts of some ancient Scottish stonemasons rose up in the thread and howled in spectral fury until we switched to telling him to move into a house that wasn't infested with the angry spirits of ancient Scottish stonemasons.
I was able to heat the house with a free standing non epa stove before switching to the King.
Because I expected to get the same amount of heat or more out of the King with improved burn times. Why else do people buy these things?
lsucet
Minister of Fire
Then 800 df that you are getting from this stove as you mentioned before is not enough? are you used to run the other one glowing red?
That's exactly the experience that most everyone had when they switch. If not, there's something else going on behind the scenes that's not obvious or not disclosed. Wet wood, uninsulated/underinsulated walls or ceiling, Poor draft. All will play a part in this. The old stoves had no air regulation really, it was monitored but not metered really. Even on high they won't get away from you like the old ones did. They made crazy heat for short amounts of time, or ran real slow and made tons of smoke and creosote. The new stoves have engineering that prevent these and replace them with even dependable heat. Some drafty houses don't do well with the even heat release, or poor wood quality can play a roll in this as well.
No not glowing red. It had a lot more surface area than the King does at that temperature. Even with a 650 or 700 degree temp it had the surface area to kick the heat out.
My old stove had a thermostatic air control. Same principal at the BK stoves.
lsucet
Minister of Fire
At 800 df and running on high like you said it should no be much of differences. when you run it on high you have lots of flame inside that box and it will give you a larger area of radiation almost like any other stove. I know that side shields can restrict a little the radiation effect but not by much at that temp and the box engulfed in flames. I saw your thermal images when you posted them and i don't see much differences.
The side sheilds and convection deck significantly reduce the radiative heating of the stove. Take a second look at the photos. The shields temperature is about 200-250F while the stove behind it range from 6-800F! Just a guess but there's probably 5 sqft of sheilds that is not letting that heat out where as my old stove doesn't have any shields. That's a significant amount of heat that is being blocked.
Blocked? Where's the heat going? Up the flue? Out the window? Heat is heat, it doesn't simply disappear does it?
Squisher
Minister of Fire
Yah. I was thinking that didn't make much sense. I mean it's wood in x efficiency = btus output. Orrr something like that isn't it?
I'm curious to hear from others what sort of high output the king king puts out?
I'm curious to hear from others what sort of high output the king king puts out?
lsucet
Minister of Fire
It can be, but i will tell you this: you have to get used to the way this stove works. i have to confess that all those ideas and opinions crossed my mind when i get this stove but after a while seeing how more even the heat is getting distribute thru the house and how we can stay in the stove room without sweating and getting headache, ( please that was my situation. I am not putting any other stove or brand down ) can tell you for sure, I AM NOT GOING BACK.
On a side note, wood consumption, able to sleep all night, let me stop here.
Now knowing that i got one of the best stove That money can buy, the point of gets better came down to start fixing the deficiencies from the house.
I am being working hard on those details and every time the differences are big. To the point that i can stop at this point and relax but i know i have more to do around to make the house better and more efficient regardless is an old house.
There are two primary methods of heat transfer from the stove, convective and radiation. Assuming the shields are 5 sqft area and have an average surface temperature of only 250F vs say the 600F of the stove behind it, the differences in heat radiation is significant and cannot be ignored. Combine that with no forced air over or between the side shields and you only have a natural convection from the side shields. The shields hold the heat in the firebox. That's what they do and their designed that way. I can hold my hand within 6-8 inches from the side of the stove while it's running on high. Without the sieilds I would not be able to.
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I started burning on Dec.23...2016 in my Princess...Full bore..I am just barely 3/4s the way through 1 rick in 20 days. At this rate 1 cord per month will be all thats needed...if that! In the dead of winter in the boiler I would run 2-2.5 cords per month through it pretty easy.I am loving this! This will give me a lot more time to season wood out...dont hate me...lol
BK states that the firebox holds something like 703,xxx BTUs. Multiply that by the efficiency (82% I believe) and then divide that by 12 hours and you will get the average BTU/hr over a 12 he cycle. It comes out to be the 52,xxx btu/hr rating for the LHV (IIRC).
Keep in mind, heat is constantly being transfered from the hottest object to the coldest. The stove to the house via radiation and convection and from the house to the outside environment. The rate at which the transfer happens is the key. If and object had more surface area and temperature then it will have a higher heat transfer rate. That is why those shields make such a significant impact on heat transfer rate.
Excuse me, I need to bring in some wood.
Squisher
Minister of Fire
It's interesting. But hasn't been the case for me. My summit has shielding on it and it is literally a heat hammer, as I've mentioned before.
Why haven't you pulled the shields yet? I can't imagine you need them for CTC if you had the old stove in the same place.
lsucet
Minister of Fire
I know always there is something to learn and this is one of those times. I thought that the shield helps those ones with tight clearances but still giving you the heat out of the box just on different direction. the heat in blaze king with shields is redirect it up where it mixes with the heat from the top and at the same time the amount of heat is greater volume. more if you are using the fans. if not using the fan still radiating up. Other stoves with shields has opening pointing forward where the heat is redirect it into the room avoiding overheat walls and objects
No doubt! See what that baby will do! The only difference you will see though may be imagined. The heat isn't being magically removed from your home. It may just be relative, warmer next to stove with your old one, now the whole house is warmer. But less radiant, more convective. Who knows, the heat isn't disappearing into thin air though.
The way it was explained to me by Chris was that the shields serve two purposes. First, they insulate the firebox to help maintain a high temperature combustion chamber to promote combustion efficiency. Second, they decrease the clearance to combustibles. In BK's eyes they are not to be removed.
Honestly I'm not surprised they would tell you not to remove them. If my warantee was no longer valid I would entertain that thought (not before I try the BK fans though). There are gaps in the tops of the shield to allow air flow up between them but the fans do not circulate air under them. Only the convection deck is purposely constructed to increase the convective transfer by blowing air between it and the stove top. Here's a closer look at the sheilds.
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