My Jotul is weak

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That's key to the issue. Even in our F400 which was about .4 cu ft smaller, I burned thicker splits, typically in the 4-6" range. Skinny splits are going to combust faster due to the greater exposed surface area and increased number of air gaps between splits.
Which “should” give faster-higher temp burns, but shorter burn cycles ? What I’m hearing from y’all’s is the fuel has to season for three years etc. yes it absolutely does if you want to load thick long hardwoods.
 
Two shots of a fire as normally loaded early on in cycle full vent. BTW the idiot that designed to vent control “knob” needs to have his fingers burned in an open fire as punishment for not even having used his own design.
What I’m seeing is a middle section of Cat/ tube is not firing or not heating up as a result . I’m not sure how the “tube” cat relationship or timing works but I have noticed the cats will hear up and glow before good tube airflow ? Do I have that timing correct ?
2 years old white oak, 300* temps at the cornerstone of unit.
OAT about 25*
 

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Twenty minutes later :
Blower fan on 3/4 speed. (Speed control button broke off- so it’s a one speed unit now. Three calls to installer have yielded ZERO options as to replacement)
Temp up to 400*
Room temp 67*
 
Which “should” give faster-higher temp burns, but shorter burn cycles ? What I’m hearing from y’all’s is the fuel has to season for three years etc. yes it absolutely does if you want to load thick long hardwoods.
Yes and no. The fire is hotter and burning quicker, but when the air control is wide open or near to it, there is not enough vacuum in the firebox to pull sufficient air through the secondary manifold. This leads to incomplete combustion with most of the heat going up the flue and a cooler firebox. If there was a thermometer reading the flue gas temps, this would be self-evident.
When the air is closed down enough, the vacuum in the firebox pulls air through the secondaries leading to much more complete and hotter combustion, in the firebox, leading to a hotter stove body and cooler flue temps. This thread illustrates the process, showing how stove and flue temps respond to closing down the air.

 
Yes and no. The fire is hotter and burning quicker, but when the air control is wide open or near to it, there is not enough vacuum in the firebox to pull sufficient air through the secondary manifold. This leads to incomplete combustion with most of the heat going up the flue and a cooler firebox. If there was a thermometer reading the flue gas temps, this would be self-evident.
When the air is closed down enough, the vacuum in the firebox pulls air through the secondaries leading to much more complete and hotter combustion, in the firebox, leading to a hotter stove body and cooler flue temps. This thread illustrates the process, showing how stove and flue temps respond to closing down the air.

So allowing LESS air increases temps by inducing more vacuum ?
Well that’s counter to everything I’ve ever seen.
I have the surround off now as I have added some insulation to the firebox in hopes of containing some losses. The flue is the hottest section of the unit until the fuel is completely burning, then it actually lowers temps and the flame/face of box becomes hottest around 600*. Interestingly the sides were hotter than the top of the box. The room did see higher temps BUT it was closer to 40* today. So I’ll post back later today on temps after this reload is fully firing.
 
So allowing LESS air increases temps by inducing more vacuum ?
Well that’s counter to everything I’ve ever seen.
I have the surround off now as I have added some insulation to the firebox in hopes of containing some losses. The flue is the hottest section of the unit until the fuel is completely burning, then it actually lowers temps and the flame/face of box becomes hottest around 600*. Interestingly the sides were hotter than the top of the box. The room did see higher temps BUT it was closer to 40* today. So I’ll post back later today on temps after this reload is fully firing.
Think of it as breathing through a straw
 
So allowing LESS air increases temps by inducing more vacuum ?
Well that’s counter to everything I’ve ever seen.
I have the surround off now as I have added some insulation to the firebox in hopes of containing some losses. The flue is the hottest section of the unit until the fuel is completely burning, then it actually lowers temps and the flame/face of box becomes hottest around 600*. Interestingly the sides were hotter than the top of the box. The room did see higher temps BUT it was closer to 40* today. So I’ll post back later today on temps after this reload is fully firing.
Modern secondary combustion stoves burn this way.
 
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So allowing LESS air increases temps by inducing more vacuum ?
Well that’s counter to everything I’ve ever seen.
I have the surround off now as I have added some insulation to the firebox in hopes of containing some losses. The flue is the hottest section of the unit until the fuel is completely burning, then it actually lowers temps and the flame/face of box becomes hottest around 600*. Interestingly the sides were hotter than the top of the box. The room did see higher temps BUT it was closer to 40* today. So I’ll post back later today on temps after this reload is fully firing.
This is what the Jotul F500 secondary combustion looks like with the air almost all the way closed. The firebox is around 1200º in this case, with a stove top probably around 600º.
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I think this (what begreen said) could be the cause, or at least the way to go for the biggest improvement that is possible with this stove.

@Angelo C I'd carefully and completely try what he says. (Also because there is a long record of having provided many solutions to stumped owners even those who have been burning a long time).
 
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This is what the Jotul F500 secondary combustion looks like with the air almost all the way closed. The firebox is around 1200º in this case, with a stove top probably around 600º.
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Season 28 of South Park has been disappointing.