The Regency CI2600 & CI2700 operation thread

[tadmaz]

Hello- we are about a month into ownership of the CI2600. It's up at our cabin so we use it only on the weekends when up there. I have a couple questions:
After installation - unit is level on all accounts, including the door, but the door swings open almost all the way and wont stay in a cracked open position. I end up bracing open on startup to get more air for combustion or semi-latch the door. The installer came back out and tried a few things, but still the same result. Any thoughts?

Also, the longest burn I get is about 4-5 hours overnight. Temps in the low 30s, 20 ft insulated liner, tried N/S only, E/W, and a mix, wood is about 16%. Maybe the splits are cut too small? Also have a vaulted ceiling so will be adding in a ceiling fan to help circulate the air as the loft gets almost too hot.

Any thoughts appreciated, thanks!

I have the exact same door issues, but it's been good for a few weeks now. Unit is level front to back, left to right, door swings open. To adjust the door, you can try adjusting the top bolt that moves the top hinge left or right (black bolt to the left of the hinge). Also, you will want to loosen the two gold bolts of the top hinge itself while the door is 90 degrees open, lift the end of the door up a little bit, tighten the two bolts. You may have to try a few attempts at this to get it right. Couldn't find anyone else with this issue or a write up of how to fix, hope this helps!

How low are you turning down your air? Once the cat is engaged for a while and cat temp has plateaued, I turn the air down all the way, then crack it to the left to maintain a whisper of a flame. If I close the air completely my flame goes out right away. Also, try some huge splits or 8" rounds, if you have any dry ones. I probably get 8-10 hours, not quite 14 as advertised.

 

[vetrano]

After installation - unit is level on all accounts, including the door, but the door swings open almost all the way and wont stay in a cracked open position. I end up bracing open on startup to get more air for combustion or semi-latch the door. The installer came back out and tried a few things, but still the same result. Any thoughts?

I had the same issue with my door. I worked with my dealer who worked with Regency. They sent me a new door which didn't solve the problem. I then took some measurements and found that the bracket that the door hangs on is the problem. The top hinge and bottom hinge sit at different distances from the face of the stove (top sicks out 34 mm and bottom 32 mm). My dealer sent photos I took to Regency who sent me a new bracket which was also defective (top stuck out 32 mm and bottom 31 mm). I gave up on Regency as it is clear they do not have good quality control for this part. I ended up shimming the bracket with aluminum foil to make both hinges stick out the same amount. This was back in 2016. At the time I messaged another member here who measured their unit which did not have the problem and both hinges were equal distances (32 mm).

 

[EOTR in Greenwater]

I have the exact same door issues, but it's been good for a few weeks now. Unit is level front to back, left to right, door swings open. To adjust the door, you can try adjusting the top bolt that moves the top hinge left or right (black bolt to the left of the hinge). Also, you will want to loosen the two gold bolts of the top hinge itself while the door is 90 degrees open, lift the end of the door up a little bit, tighten the two bolts. You may have to try a few attempts at this to get it right. Couldn't find anyone else with this issue or a write up of how to fix, hope this helps!

How low are you turning down your air? Once the cat is engaged for a while and cat temp has plateaued, I turn the air down all the way, then crack it to the left to maintain a whisper of a flame. If I close the air completely my flame goes out right away. Also, try some huge splits or 8" rounds, if you have any dry ones. I probably get 8-10 hours, not quite 14 as advertised.

Thanks - I'll give those a shot. Installer tried to loose door hinge bolts but through off the door receiver. I do turn air all the way down, so will try your advice - thanks!

 

[EOTR in Greenwater]

I had the same issue with my door. I worked with my dealer who worked with Regency. They sent me a new door which didn't solve the problem. I then took some measurements and found that the bracket that the door hangs on is the problem. The top hinge and bottom hinge sit at different distances from the face of the stove (top sicks out 34 mm and bottom 32 mm). My dealer sent photos I took to Regency who sent me a new bracket which was also defective (top stuck out 32 mm and bottom 31 mm). I gave up on Regency as it is clear they do not have good quality control for this part. I ended up shimming the bracket with aluminum foil to make both hinges stick out the same amount. This was back in 2016. At the time I messaged another member here who measured their unit which did not have the problem and both hinges were equal distances (32 mm).

Oh vey! I'll check mine later tonight.

 

[GA Wood Burner]

Hello- we are about a month into ownership of the CI2600. It's up at our cabin so we use it only on the weekends when up there. I have a couple questions:
After installation - unit is level on all accounts, including the door, but the door swings open almost all the way and wont stay in a cracked open position. I end up bracing open on startup to get more air for combustion or semi-latch the door. The installer came back out and tried a few things, but still the same result. Any thoughts?

Also, the longest burn I get is about 4-5 hours overnight. Temps in the low 30s, 20 ft insulated liner, tried N/S only, E/W, and a mix, wood is about 16%. Maybe the splits are cut too small? Also have a vaulted ceiling so will be adding in a ceiling fan to help circulate the air as the loft gets almost too hot.

Any thoughts appreciated, thanks!

Welcome.

Not exactly sure what to tell you about the door thing. Ours is pretty level too but the door will stay pretty much where I put. Even so, I still use a small brace at the bottom of the door when cracked just make sure it could't be forced open if a piece of wood were to accidentally roll forward and hit the door.

As for the burn time, not sure I can be much help there either as 4-6 hrs is about all we can count on, even when fully loaded and with the air control closed down all the way! As of now I've learned to accept that as there is usually always enough fire left to kick it off in the morning again. And, to be fair, I've only tried E/W orientation so far as all of our wood is way to long to go N/W. I do see where people are apparently getting longer burn times with N/S so I'm collecting all the short pieces I find into a small pile and will give N/S a try soon, I hope, if we ever have any more cold weather.

I've been hearing something about global warming!

Definitely install a ceiling fan, run it in reverse at a lower speed as that should help push the hot air collected high up back down. And if there is any type of forced air heating system, check and see if it allows you to run the blower in a slow circulation mode. That could also help distribute some of the heat built up in the room where the stove is.

Hope some of this helps. In any case, good luck!

 

[tablesawsally]

Help needed!

New to the forum and to my CI2600. I think I am losing heat far too quickly, once the fire dies down and the fan kicks off my room temp drops around 10 degrees within an hour. I have not had the chance to see if I have a block off plate installed in there but could a draft from the brick around the insert really create that much of a draft?

Also- What is the most efficient way to operate the fan? I have a 1300 sq ft cottage and I can barely heat it up. Raging fire, good dry wood (solar kiln dried tested on fresh split at 10%) and im getting 700's on the sensor for a good 10 hours but the heat output isnt great.

I already reached out to my installer but wanted to see what everyone thinks in the mean time

 

[RubiSahara]

LOL this is a thread of constant questions...

I thought I had learned how to run this thing but then today some anomalies....

1). Had a TON of smoke today. Same logs Ive been using for a couple weeks.
2). Finally got her hot >800, high fan, catalyst engaged and air closed about an inch. Then while tossing a log in, temps dropped with the door open and I cant get the temp up again. Cracking 500 is tough with a full stove of red coals and flaming logs. Thoughts?

 

[begreen]

LOL this is a thread of constant questions...

I thought I had learned how to run this thing but then today some anomalies....

1). Had a TON of smoke today. Same logs Ive been using for a couple weeks.
2). Finally got her hot >800, high fan, catalyst engaged and air closed about an inch. Then while tossing a log in, temps dropped with the door open and I cant get the temp up again. Cracking 500 is tough with a full stove of red coals and flaming logs. Thoughts?

What are the outdoor temps? How tall is the liner on the insert? Is it insulated?

 

[RubiSahara]

What are the outdoor temps? How tall is the liner on the insert? Is it insulated?

mid 30's but high winds. single story brick home (20ft-ish). I never had this problem before tonight. Also had some burning smells we never had before tonight.

 

[begreen]

Is there a screen on the chimney cap? If so, check it for plugging.

 

[RubiSahara]

Is there a screen on the chimney cap? If so, check it for plugging.

There is and it looked fine when I took a look during daylight.

Also, just wanted to add Ive had all the same issues as others have mentioned. Door slowly opens when left cracked, glass build up, auto fan sensor not working.

 

[GA Wood Burner]

There is and it looked fine when I took a look during daylight.

Also, just wanted to add Ive had all the same issues as others have mentioned. Door slowly opens when left cracked, glass build up, auto fan sensor not working.

I can't offer much advise on the door swing issue, other than just maybe e-check level, etc. The following are just some of my observations with our CI2600:
* Temp drop when its open, yep, that can happen and it can be a lot, it just depends.
* Glass build up, yep, that'll happen, especially when air control is closed down for a long burn, again it just depends.
* Auto fan sensor not working may mean its time to clean out the ash. Apparently too much ash build up on the firebox floor can insulate the sensor enough, especially at low temps, until it shuts off. Either clean it out or try and build a bigger/hotter fire.
* Slow heat build up may be a sign of restricted air flow. Be sure the air control is fully open and the inlet is not blocked by ash or a flat piece of wood. I've observed that a split with an E/W orientation (which I currently have to use because of length of wood) can sometimes land w/flat face up against the inlet enough to block the air intake until a hole burns in it then allowing in more air and more heat build up. I suspect a N/S orientation might not be susceptible to this issue.
* And, about that smell, I don't know how long you've had your unit but you can get that "new" smell burn off for a while. We're about three months in now and no more smells but I do remember that when it was new the "new" smell would come and go as we built larger and hotter fires.
Again, just some of my observations, hope they help.

 

[RubiSahara]

I can't offer much advise on the door swing issue, other than just maybe e-check level, etc. The following are just some of my observations with our CI2600:
* Temp drop when its open, yep, that can happen and it can be a lot, it just depends.
* Glass build up, yep, that'll happen, especially when air control is closed down for a long burn, again it just depends.
* Auto fan sensor not working may mean its time to clean out the ash. Apparently too much ash build up on the firebox floor can insulate the sensor enough, especially at low temps, until it shuts off. Either clean it out or try and build a bigger/hotter fire.
* Slow heat build up may be a sign of restricted air flow. Be sure the air control is fully open and the inlet is not blocked by ash or a flat piece of wood. I've observed that a split with an E/W orientation (which I currently have to use because of length of wood) can sometimes land w/flat face up against the inlet enough to block the air intake until a hole burns in it then allowing in more air and more heat build up. I suspect a N/S orientation might not be susceptible to this issue.
* And, about that smell, I don't know how long you've had your unit but you can get that "new" smell burn off for a while. We're about three months in now and no more smells but I do remember that when it was new the "new" smell would come and go as we built larger and hotter fires.
Again, just some of my observations, hope they help.

I'll attempt to match your thorough observations...Keep in mind it was the first time I've ran the stove with high winds.

- Im aware of the open door temp drop, but I couldn't get the temp back up (per the thermometer) over 450 with 4 inches of red hot coals and 2-3 dry white oak splits raging fire.
- I'm not too concerned about the glass build up as I just clean it off and try to burn hotter to keep it minimal.
- Apparently I'm one of a few new installs that are having issues with the auto fan. It hasn't worked since the install (DEC 29th). I only use manual mode.
- Slow heat build up, see my first point. I typically keep it fully open to maybe an inch to the right.
- Burn off....maybe the wind caused a down draft and pushed the smell in the house.

 

[TUOWL]

Hello - new to forum but have been lurking for awhile. Just got the HI400 installed last week and have been running it none stop now. I have had good success with getting it up to the 1100-1200 range then I put the fan on high and close it off to run. My wood is mostly ash in the 18-22 range. I have been getting I would say 8-10 hours of total burn time with those last hours in the 300s to 200s. My one issue with this insert is that I was hoping to be sitting in the room it’s in my bathing suit for how warm it would make the room. I haven’t been able to get the room hotter then 70 degrees and forget about heating an entire 2000square feet home. The room it is in is on a slab that is a foot below the rest of the house. Are other people gettting cooked out or am I doing something wrong? I have only had experience with inserts that arnt flush and after awhile you had to leave the immediate room it got so hot.

 

[bholler]

Hello - new to forum but have been lurking for awhile. Just got the HI400 installed last week and have been running it none stop now. I have had good success with getting it up to the 1100-1200 range then I put the fan on high and close it off to run. My wood is mostly ash in the 18-22 range. I have been getting I would say 8-10 hours of total burn time with those last hours in the 300s to 200s. My one issue with this insert is that I was hoping to be sitting in the room it’s in my bathing suit for how warm it would make the room. I haven’t been able to get the room hotter then 70 degrees and forget about heating an entire 2000square feet home. The room it is in is on a slab that is a foot below the rest of the house. Are other people gettting cooked out or am I doing something wrong? I have only had experience with inserts that arnt flush and after awhile you had to leave the immediate room it got so hot.

Is there a plate blocking of the chimney around your stainless liner?

 

[TUOWL]

Is that something I could see from inside the fire box or would I have to know/ask the installer that?

 

[bholler]

Is that something I could see from inside the fire box or would I have to know/ask the installer that?

You would see it from inside the stove. You would have to look behind the surround up into the chimney

 

[TUOWL]

Ok I will take a look. Judging from my quick research on the subject it sounds like i don't have one. Is a block off plate something that professionals with more then the 6 days of experience I have will install?

 

[bholler]

Ok I will take a look. Judging from my quick research on the subject it sounds like i don't have one. Is a block off plate something that professionals with more then the 6 days of experience I have will install?

Many pros do not install them

 

[TUOWL]

Well looks like I will have to learn a new skill. Thank you very much for your help.

 

[bholler]

Well looks like I will have to learn a new skill. Thank you very much for your help.

There are also many that do though. You just have to ask them

 

[GA Wood Burner]

I'll attempt to match your thorough observations...Keep in mind it was the first time I've ran the stove with high winds.

- Im aware of the open door temp drop, but I couldn't get the temp back up (per the thermometer) over 450 with 4 inches of red hot coals and 2-3 dry white oak splits raging fire.
- I'm not too concerned about the glass build up as I just clean it off and try to burn hotter to keep it minimal.
- Apparently I'm one of a few new installs that are having issues with the auto fan. It hasn't worked since the install (DEC 29th). I only use manual mode.
- Slow heat build up, see my first point. I typically keep it fully open to maybe an inch to the right.
- Burn off....maybe the wind caused a down draft and pushed the smell in the house.

Maybe its time to call the installer back to check a few things.

Regarding the auto fan mode, maybe sensor on the fan module is not making good contact with the firebox. After our initial install, the auto fan mode became intermittent & the fan started vibrating on high so I had the installer come back to check it and a few other things. When they pulled the fan module out, one of the four little rubber feet it sits on had fallen off causing the module to pull away form the bottom of the fire box and thus the intermittent operation & vibration. The blower thermal sensor in centered at the back of the fan module and is supposed to touch the bottom of the firebox. If it's pulled too far away, you could have a problem.

Good luck!

 

[GA Wood Burner]

I've been hearing that there have been some problems with the CI2600 fan/blower. I'm interested in hearing from anyone who has experienced a problem and how Regency/dealer/installer responded.

'Cause our fan/blower completely failed last night! And after only two months (11/9/18) of operation! Actually it's more like only one month of operation because we have had that much cold weather yet so we haven't been having that may fires. Any way, it will not work on either man. or auto. Very disappointing!

Thanks for any input!

 

[GA Wood Burner]

Oh, one other question: I'm interested in hearing if anyone is using the CI2600 without the fan and what kind of heat output to expect???
Thanks!

 

[GA Wood Burner]

Well, the fan problem is resolved, long story, short answer, I'm an idiot!

Actually it's not quite that simple but close. It involves a 6 mth.+ home addition/remodel which involves the fire place insert in our living room, a basement work shop directly below the living room & some electrical wiring changes I didn't understand.

Because the fireplace insert is located just above the workshop, it was easy enough to get power for the fan from the workshop. When I checked that circuit breaker, it was OK! What I didn't realize was that the electrician had stuck a GFCI outlet in the string but put in the wall just outside the shop. It had trip!

Now I know. It's all good! I'm an idiot! Regency is king!

PS: Also, I think I may have answered my other question about potential heat output without a fan going. On a total overcast day ( zero sun) a high of ≈39, and with no other heat source, the insert was able to keep about 800sf, 400+ sf of which has a 14+ ft vaulted ceiling, at about 70-72 all day. That's with just radiant heat!

That ain't too bad!